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Flatbed Mounts

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发表于 2021-9-1 00:06:00 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
The new hitch is completeNext thing is to clean up the old mounts.  I wish the bed hadn't been welded to the frame, but whadya gonna do?Truck hasn't broken in two in over 160000 miles, so I guess there's been no serious damage to the framePic 1.... old hitchPic 2.... new hitchOther pics........ Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I'd torch off those old mounts (both frame & bed) then get some plates where you can bolt it through the (now) frame patches.  Then grade 8 bolts to the frame to keep it from moving.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:I'd grind the welds most of the way through, smack with a big hammer, then grind the remnants smooth with a flap wheel.  Bolt the new mounts on.
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmI'd grind the welds most of the way through, smack with a big hammer, then grind the remnants smooth with a flap wheel.  Bolt the new mounts on.
Reply:Originally Posted by MarkBall2I'd torch off those old mounts (both frame & bed) then get some plates where you can bolt it through the (now) frame patches.  Then grade 8 bolts to the frame to keep it from moving.
Reply:You just said the welds on the frame had lasted 160,000 miles. I think that proves that they are sound. I would just clean up and bevel the cuts that you made, set the bed back in place, and weld the brackets that hold the bed back together. If you can weld in a new pin box you ought to be able to weld the brackets back where they will hold too.
Reply:Back in my days of installing truck bodies, (early 80's) the factory I worked at used timbers between the long members of the body and the truck frame. They / we used oak, and it lasts forever.As far as the hump over the rear end, skip it with the wood, That foot and a half won't make a difference. You will need to make some clearance holes in the wood for the rivets that are on the top of the frame. A 1" drill just started into the wood will work for thatAfter you have the wood prepared, 4 pieces and the body set in place. Get your self some good threaded rod and 1/2" flat stock. 2 pieces of threaded rod and 2 pieces of flat stock with 2 holes drilled in the flat stock for the threaded rod. clamp the body to the frame. 3 per side. 2 to the front of the hump and 1 to the rear of the hump. Right behind the rear spring carrier, you can weld a plate from the truck frame to the bed.I know the frame has allready been welded to, but I have to dis agree with Mark Ball on this one. I wouldn't try to cut the old mounts off with a torch. One sneeze or mosquito bite while you are blowing away the old welds,,,,,,,,,  I would clean them up with a grinder and leave them alone. You can clamp right over them or next to them if you want. If I remember right, The fuel tank is on the left side, inboard. There is just enough room to slide the threaded rod between the tank and the frame. Tighten nuts till the flat stock starts to bend.This is a standard method for installing a stationary truck body.  (not a dump truck) Just look at any box truck you see parked any where.     Good luckLincoln Ranger 8                        Lincoln 175                          Drill pressLincoln 225 mig                            Plasma                              8 ft brake        52" jump shear
Reply:Originally Posted by OldtimerYou just said the welds on the frame had lasted 160,000 miles. I think that proves that they are sound. I would just clean up and bevel the cuts that you made, set the bed back in place, and weld the brackets that hold the bed back together. If you can weld in a new pin box you ought to be able to weld the brackets back where they will hold too.
Reply:Bed has to be removed to replace the exhaust components, service the in tank fuel pumps, etc......And it had to be removed to redo the hitchI have a sneakin' suspicion that a good deal of the cost of a vehicle is the extra effort required to make it in such a way as to be serviceable.  It would be a lot cheaper to rivet or permanently attach a lot of components, but they wear out and have to be replaced.Be simpler to weld my door shut, but then I gotta crawl out of the window all the time"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammI've noticed, just like my old Powerwagon, that these trucks aren't too easily come by in the junkyards.  Guys are holding onto them, and mostly taking good care of them.  I don't see too many crapped out looking mid 90's Fords on the road.  Most seem to be well taken care of.  And it was at a time when the manufacturers were using better steel in the body to prevent premature rust thru.  Still isn't a spot of rust on the body on this one, and it's 15yrs old
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