motor oil choice for engine drive?

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i just picked a hobart champion elite this weekend. i'm going to change the oil and filters in it this week and was wondering wht everyone is running in there engine drives?  i run mobil-1 synthetic in everything else.  the owners manual calls for 5w-30.  is the synthetic ok?    what about oil filters?  it has a kohler filter on it now but i would like to run napa gold filters.  is there a way to cross the numbers?  thanks
Reply:For the filter; as long as the threads and gasket are the same, you should be fine running any filter that will physically fit."Great spirits have always encountered violent oppostion from mediocre minds."  --  Albert Einstein
Reply:Originally Posted by HOBARTi just picked a hobart champion elite this weekend. i'm going to change the oil and filters in it this week and was wondering wht everyone is running in there engine drives?  i run mobil-1 synthetic in everything else.  the owners manual calls for 5w-30.  is the synthetic ok?    what about oil filters?  it has a kohler filter on it now but i would like to run napa gold filters.  is there a way to cross the numbers?  thanks
Reply:I found this.http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5463_200425463Yakdung
Reply:this is not a brand new machine. bought it off the original owner.  from what i gather, the warranty is not tranfferable from teh original owner.  as far as warranty work goes, i am now the warranty.  i'll get the numbers off of the filters and take them to napa with me.  that seems to be the easiest solution.  i've always had good luck with the napa filters, there local, and i get decent deals.  should i just call hobart in reference to the oil?  i looked threw the owners manual on line and it just had the recommended weights, nothing on dino/synthetic oil.  i may call the tech line tomorrow.  thanks
Reply:Pay attention to the micron sieve size, and filter flow rate. You can always go smaller sieve size, think cleaner,  as long as the flow rate isn't diminished.I run Amsoil by the way.Jeff
Reply:Originally Posted by HOBARTthis is not a brand new machine. bought it off the original owner.  from what i gather, the warranty is not tranfferable from teh original owner.  as far as warranty work goes, i am now the warranty.  i'll get the numbers off of the filters and take them to napa with me.  that seems to be the easiest solution.  i've always had good luck with the napa filters, there local, and i get decent deals.  should i just call hobart in reference to the oil?  i looked threw the owners manual on line and it just had the recommended weights, nothing on dino/synthetic oil.  i may call the tech line tomorrow.  thanks
Reply:I don't know about the oil but I also use Amsoil in my motorcycles. I am interested as to how you like the welder, i am considering purchasing one from TSC. Any and all Pros & Cons would be appreciated (hobby welder), power for outage etc.
Reply:I find this interesting.  I have  few motorcycles.  My take is simple.I own a garage.  I have said to customers.Your motor blew because you ran out of oilyour motor blew because the oil was never changed.I have NEVER said your motor blew because you used the wrong brand.30 year mechanic.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:i know that hobart doesn't make the engines.  i never thought of contacting kohler direct.  thats the route i'll take. thanks  john c486, i'll snd you a pm in teh next couple days.  been raining here and haven't had alot of time to play with it yet.  could you not tell what brand it was, david?  jk, i get the pooint.  thanks guys
Reply:I know by working as a mechanic, what I have read and what I have been told about sythetic old. If they use oil it will use more if it dosent leak it will start to. I would not us it in a welder but I will try it some day in a car or truck.
Reply:i have run synthetic in my vehicles for a long time, and have never noticed any more oil leaks or consumption than when they were using dino.  i'll give kohler a call tomorrow to see whats going on.
Reply:I just had a thread like this over in the Lincoln area. I called my Deutz dealer and the service dept. guy said not to use synthetic on an older engine. I can't imagine why, but to be on the safe side.......I would call Deutz, but they can't even write a service manual in eglish that I can understand!"Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:i've heard if an engine is broken in new on regular, dont switch to synthetic..it will leak where it didnt before..
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadi've heard if an engine is broken in new on regular, dont switch to synthetic..it will leak where it didnt before..
Reply:From the Mobil 1 site, under Myths:Myth:Mobil 1 will leak out of the seals of older cars.Reality:   Mobil 1 does not cause leaks. In fact, new Mobil 1 was tested in dozens of industry standard and original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) tests to prove its seal performance. It is fully compatible with the elastomeric materials from which all automotive seals and gaskets are made. If an older engine is in good condition and does not have oil leaks, Mobil 1 provides the same advantages as when used in a new engine. ExxonMobil recommends taking measures to repair the leaks, then using Mobil 1. ExxonMobil also recommends following the automobile manufacturer's manual for the proper oil to use
Reply:hydraulic flat tappet cams I like to use valvoline or castrol non-syntheticroller cams I use mobil 1 syntheticI use Rotella or the cheapest oil i can find to break an engine in..I know two guys that are hard core drag racers that use the cheap autozone oil and swear by it, but they change oil like every week.tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:looked on kohlers website at the service manual pdf.  any oil within there weight and grade specs, including synthetic, is acceptable.   5w-30 for below 32*F and 10w-30 above 32*F.
Reply:Originally Posted by HOBARTlooked on kohlers website at the service manual pdf.  any oil within there weight and grade specs, including synthetic, is acceptable.   5w-30 for below 32*F and 10w-30 above 32*F.
Reply:I use Amsoil in everything I own, always have. I have alway ran the next up wieght. In the hot summer I ran 20W-50W, winter 20W-30W. In my diesel I ran 20W-50W Marine/Diesel all year long. Never had any troubles, I also crossed referenced the numbers of the filters and ran Amsoil as well. The extended oil change filters are best on the market. We used to run sprint cars back in the day and cut the oil filters after a change to just look inside, the Amsoil filters always had double the trash than Fram or Wix.A young green pipe welder asked an old salt one day...How can I make the weld on the bottom of the pipe look like the top.......The old salt replied....Screw up the top......
Reply:I worked in a shop one guy we did work for ran amoco synthetic in his car nice Guy but we nicknamed him leakey his car got 2years old and we had so much troble trying to dry it up the boss ask him to take it to some were we could not fix it. He didnot want to so we put reglar oil in it We ever called him leakey agin. If you dont know why it would cause leaks you have never Poured any.
Reply:Coming from the small eng world, what razor is compleatly wrong, but he is welcome to his opinion. I work for a Kohler Expert dealer and not all the oil filters are the same. Some small engs cant handle a check valve on their pumps. This isnt a car. I just got done with another school from kawasaki and the oil filter this has been brought up there as well as kohler and briggs schools. All the engineers say NOT to run the synthic oil. NOT cause it bad oil, just that the engings will leak and use it faster. Here again its not an automotive eng. In the last school I was in for fuel injection on the Kaw's one of the engs will use 2 oz an acre under 100% load. Now most landscapers wont run 100% load, nor will you guys running your welders. Load is against the Gov. at WOT. I would use what is recomened. Not brand, but the oil spec. If your in cold weather for the next few months on your job, whats 20 bucks for 2 qts of oil and a filter. Why not buy what the book says? I run my old splash engs on about 25 hr oil changes. My welder once a year, cause I dont use it like you guys do, dang near every day. And my diesel eng on my mower 50 hrs, cause of the red clay Im in, and the dust. Dont forget your air filters. You guys that are on the big commercial jobs in he summer when that Lull goes flying past your welder kicking up dust 100 times a day, you need to check yours more than the guys doing the fence work or in a lay down yard welding on trailers and heavy equipment. Those of you running the commands, already know how your engs use oil. with no leaks. The onans are probbly the best in these welders, THIS is my oponion. Parts are expensive, sometimes just crazy. If I had to buy an eng today, air cooled,it would be Kohler, Kaw, Honda, than Briggs, being the LAST resore, unless its a Vanguard. Hondas have the cheapest parts, but Im just partial to kohler. I really respect the help Ive gotten here on my learning to weld, for a hobby only. I hope that maybe I can shed some light from what I know to you all.Learning one rod at a time
Reply:vince, didi the engineers tell you why the motors would leak/use synthetic oil faster?
Reply:Originally Posted by HOBARTvince, didi the engineers tell you why the motors would leak/use synthetic oil faster?
Reply:Yes, Its too thin. Like someone said, have you ever poured it. They all said its NOT bad oil, just that they hadent desighned them to run on it. That thin oil with the load it will use it faster. And as others have mentioned its so thin, it leakes from everywhere. I ran Amsoil in my Dodge, sold it with 280 on the clock, not one oil related problem, I started it on the amsoil at around 10k. I bought the truck wit 13 miles on it. On my kohler command and magnum engines I run Kohler magnum oil. Its 3.89 a qt at the shop I work at. I find that VERRY competive price. Why do i run that you may ask. Cause it has a high zink content. Regular motor oil isnt as high in it. This helps cool the cylinder walls better. Remember all the stink when they lowered the sulfer rating in the diesel fuel. The old mechanical engs need that higher sulfer content to help lube the cylinder walls. We sell an oil labled from kaw that is 10w 30 and its a semi synthetic. Alot of the 5w 20 is a semi synthetic oil. I belive convental oil is oil, its just the additives that they put in it. My Triton V10 is getting ready to turn 300k on it. It was in my buddies fleet of trucks and bought this one from him. Nuttin spical with the oil, just changed every 3k. I have most of the records, some changes were 2 times in one month! As far as the 5w I belive it has something to do with the cold temps and sheer rating on the rod. Someone mentioned this above, flows eayser at cold temps. The opreating temps are the same, with in a few degs in the oil. Its the break down point that you have to be concerend about. If you just stick with the book youll be fine and youll be fine running the napa and carquest oil filters. Both are made by wix. When i worked at Cat if we didnt have the filter, we always told the cust to go get a wix. We also stocked Donaldson air filters. Im not fimlure with the eng you have, so i cant say for sure. I will say this, being a Kohler expert dealer, if I call Kohler and tell them theres something wrong and its under warenty, I dont have to send the part, or eng back. Most time I dont hav to send pics, I tell them its covered, and they pay me, and send me what I need next day.Learning one rod at a time