8 in. heavy wall

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I need help with capping 8in. sc. 100 in the 5g position using 1/8 in. 7018.  I am running at 115 amps but my cap looks a little rough.  does anyone have any advice?
Reply:Let the pipe cool a bit before capping and run your cap hotter
Reply:Post up a pic so we can see what trouble you are having
Reply:115 could be a little on the cold side on heavy wall. What brand rod?
Reply:i like how everyone jumps to the conclusion to weld it hotter when you havent even seen what the weld looks like. 115 amps is not the same on all machines.  if i were to run 115 amps on the machine i was using on my last job, it would have been like running the machine i have at my house at about 200 amps..
Reply:Originally Posted by gto_welder01i like how everyone jumps to the conclusion to weld it hotter when you havent even seen what the weld looks like. 115 amps is not the same on all machines.  if i were to run 115 amps on the machine i was using on my last job, it would have been like running the machine i have at my house at about 200 amps..
Reply:Run 3/32 hot and do a very slight wiggle to spread out the weld (not much though) and run stringers. Grind out any high spots smooth before capping. When running 1/8th in the 5g I have little success with the hot fast method like with 3/32 probably due to the extra metal and heat being carried. It looks much better with lower than normal amps like around 115 like you posted. But I get much better looking beads running 3/32 even on 8" schedule 80.Last edited by SR20steve; 12-01-2011 at 05:30 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by gto_welder01i like how everyone jumps to the conclusion to weld it hotter when you havent even seen what the weld looks like. 115 amps is not the same on all machines.  if i were to run 115 amps on the machine i was using on my last job, it would have been like running the machine i have at my house at about 200 amps..
Reply:Originally Posted by Showdog75115 amps is 115 amps.If this is a test weld and being done in a ASME code test facility the machine should be calibrated. I understand that not all welding machines are putting out the amps there dials or meters are showing but in properly run shops they should be running what the dials /meters say they are.With that being said a true 115 amps is a little cold in my ASME code shop experience.Heavy wall of that size I'm sure I'd be at least 120 if not closer to 125.Btw I do this stuff for a living in a x-ray code shop.
Reply:Originally Posted by gto_welder01and you think i do for free or what.... i weld this stuff all day long as well... nowhere in his post did he say he was at a testing facility..
Reply:Originally Posted by Showdog75115 amps is 115 amps.If this is a test weld and being done in a ASME code test facility the machine should be calibrated. I understand that not all welding machines are putting out the amps there dials or meters are showing but in properly run shops they should be running what the dials /meters say they are.With that being said a true 115 amps is a little cold in my ASME code shop experience.Heavy wall of that size I'm sure I'd be at least 120 if not closer to 125.Btw I do this stuff for a living in a x-ray code shop.
Reply:He doesnt care how big or short anyones dick is....he needs help.It depends on if you are running a one piece cap or stringer beads. I agree that 3/32" behave much better when welding on 5G piping. But 1/8" can be done, are you having humping problems along with undercutting, or cold lapping and excessive bead size. I find it better to run lower amps and use the volts to fine tune the arc puddle. Most pipliners will say run hot and go fast...this is wrong on all accounts. You will not be able to run the same temp as you do on flat or fillet welds. Let the rod do the work and keep electrode movment action to a minimum. Electrode angle will play a huge roll as well, let the puddle lead your arc on the sides and lead the puddle across the top. This takes lots of practice and dont rush it. You cannot weld uphill as fast as you weld down.......A young green pipe welder asked an old salt one day...How can I make the weld on the bottom of the pipe look like the top.......The old salt replied....Screw up the top......
Reply:Originally Posted by AwelderiamHe doesnt care how big or short anyones dick is....he needs help.It depends on if you are running a one piece cap or stringer beads. I agree that 3/32" behave much better when welding on 5G piping. But 1/8" can be done, are you having humping problems along with undercutting, or cold lapping and excessive bead size. I find it better to run lower amps and use the volts to fine tune the arc puddle. Most pipliners will say run hot and go fast...this is wrong on all accounts. You will not be able to run the same temp as you do on flat or fillet welds. Let the rod do the work and keep electrode movment action to a minimum. Electrode angle will play a huge roll as well, let the puddle lead your arc on the sides and lead the puddle across the top. This takes lots of practice and dont rush it. You cannot weld uphill as fast as you weld down.......
Reply:Originally Posted by Showdog75115 amps is 115 amps.If this is a test weld and being done in a ASME code test facility the machine should be calibrated. I understand that not all welding machines are putting out the amps there dials or meters are showing but in properly run shops they should be running what the dials /meters say they are.With that being said a true 115 amps is a little cold in my ASME code shop experience.Heavy wall of that size I'm sure I'd be at least 120 if not closer to 125.Btw I do this stuff for a living in a x-ray code shop.
Reply:Originally Posted by DanthemanYou have to remember that, it is a big world outside your ASME code shop. 90 % of all shops dont have a volts dial. We have over 25 welding machines  and none of them have dial meters and we are adhering to ASME codes. With that been said a short arc help in controlling your puddle and running hotter, I personnally travel side to side fast.
Reply:I will admidt that I have limited exact numbers when it comes to using the newer single dial units. I do remember that when I was using the Ranger 250 the E7018 ran better with the arc dig full on, when not on pipe mode. I would recommend pipe mode for all electrodes when welding on pipe. The exact amps I cant remember but I would say using 1/8" the 125-135 would be a starting point....but each unit is a little differant. Like I said I have spent 95% of my life using 2 dials...volts/amps. Dont long arc LH rod that will give you some porosity. When running Lo-Hi you can almost feel the flux burning off the rod while easing uphill. Be carful on the edges thats where undercutting and slag inclusions occur. You might have to pause on the edges so it will fill, if you cant fill the edges then you are to hot,or moving to fast. 1/8" uphill on 8 5/8" diameter piping is tuff. Larger diameter's are alot easier to learn on, you might practice on some 12" unitl you get the hang of it.......Last edited by Awelderiam; 12-03-2011 at 11:35 AM.A young green pipe welder asked an old salt one day...How can I make the weld on the bottom of the pipe look like the top.......The old salt replied....Screw up the top......
Reply:Originally Posted by SR20steveJust like all the millions of SA-200's making code welds every day. We have 4 rigs with SA-250's there is no amp meter and every single truck welds a certain rod at a different dial setting. Only thing you can do is just kinda feel it out.
Reply:Sorry I haven't posted in a while. I've been working 7 12s and have not had any time to get down to the weld shop.  I am welding in a UA testing facility so all the machines should be fairly accurate. The problem I'm having is that my cap is a little rough especially on the bottom. I don't have any undercut.Just uneven heighth on my cap. The entire process requires a tig root and hotpass, one pass with 3/32  7018 and 1/8   7018 the rest of the way out. This is for a gate test and the inspector is pretty tough. he wants a very smooth even cap. Even if your cap is flush to an 1/8 but a little rough he will bust you out. so I need to smooth it out a little bit. I will post pictures as soon as I can. Thanks for all the help.
Reply:I am assuming the test calls for a single bead cap?A young green pipe welder asked an old salt one day...How can I make the weld on the bottom of the pipe look like the top.......The old salt replied....Screw up the top......
Reply:Originally Posted by tiginatorSorry I haven't posted in a while. I've been working 7 12s and have not had any time to get down to the weld shop.  I am welding in a UA testing facility so all the machines should be fairly accurate. The problem I'm having is that my cap is a little rough especially on the bottom. I don't have any undercut.Just uneven heighth on my cap. The entire process requires a tig root and hotpass, one pass with 3/32  7018 and 1/8   7018 the rest of the way out. This is for a gate test and the inspector is pretty tough. he wants a very smooth even cap. Even if your cap is flush to an 1/8 but a little rough he will bust you out. so I need to smooth it out a little bit. I will post pictures as soon as I can. Thanks for all the help.
Reply:Originally Posted by SR20steveThat seems pretty stupid to me, that a inspector would fail a weld because it looked rough. Either it passes within testing requirements or it fails. Sounds like the inspector needs to weld out a coupon just for reference so we know what the standard is
Reply:yeah this inspector wants a single wash for the cap and from what I hear he is a real dkhead.  I just want to pass the gate test so I can get out in the field. It's a pretty big job so hopefully I won' have to see him again.
Reply:Well....me being a professional Dkhead I can tell you both as to why us Dkheads have to be what we are. 1st. Code....the big deal with excessive cap is not just for looks but for stress risers. The higher the cap the more torsion the weld has on the base metal as it cools, the weld cools faster than the base metal, the higher cap could result in cracking within the heat effected zone (toe of the weld). There is a calculated weld profile that was done by welding engineers and metallurgists who have forgot more about how metals react to welding than most of us will ever know. The one thing to remember is time and temp changes metal, always. 2nd, Welding Procedures.... The awsome root pass that filled half the groove in one pass is just that excessive. The welding engineer has determined the right amount of heat input to use per pass to control the hardning of the heat effected zone....he does not care nor do us Dkheads how much metal you can carry on one pass....the welder will either weld as per the WPS or the welder will not weld on the project. Anyone can weld a pretty bead...anyone can weld a hot bead...a real welder can weld as per the specs and in the end produce a weld that meets the welding procedure guidelines.AWS QC.1 CWI #07061051, Sr. Dkhead, DCP Midstream LLC.A young green pipe welder asked an old salt one day...How can I make the weld on the bottom of the pipe look like the top.......The old salt replied....Screw up the top......
Reply:Wow after reading through all that, all the advice I could give you is practice, practice, practice and then practice some more. Then maybe you can satisfy richard craniums strict requirements.lol
Reply:Originally Posted by AwelderiamWell....me being a professional Dkhead I can tell you both as to why us Dkheads have to be what we are. 1st. Code....the big deal with excessive cap is not just for looks but for stress risers. The higher the cap the more torsion the weld has on the base metal as it cools, the weld cools faster than the base metal, the higher cap could result in cracking within the heat effected zone (toe of the weld). There is a calculated weld profile that was done by welding engineers and metallurgists who have forgot more about how metals react to welding than most of us will ever know. The one thing to remember is time and temp changes metal, always. 2nd, Welding Procedures.... The awsome root pass that filled half the groove in one pass is just that excessive. The welding engineer has determined the right amount of heat input to use per pass to control the hardning of the heat effected zone....he does not care nor do us Dkheads how much metal you can carry on one pass....the welder will either weld as per the WPS or the welder will not weld on the project. Anyone can weld a pretty bead...anyone can weld a hot bead...a real welder can weld as per the specs and in the end produce a weld that meets the welding procedure guidelines.AWS QC.1 CWI #07061051, Sr. Dkhead, DCP Midstream LLC.I took no offence to yours or any others postings about Dkheads.....My post was mostly poking fun at that.......it comes with the job. I didnt mean to come across as an ahole about the certs....that was not my true intention. I agree about the limited rods that makes no sence at all, kinda like the no power tools deal....wierd. I appologize again about the whole cert thing. I am not that kind of guy, I have been a welder my whole life and only an inspector for the last 5. I get caught up in trying to explain when nothing needs to be explained. I have this discussion with 200+ welders a year.....about following procedures and not over welding things. I get caught up in all of that and get carried away I will watch what and how I post things. I welcome everyones opinions and methods.....in the end its welding.A young green pipe welder asked an old salt one day...How can I make the weld on the bottom of the pipe look like the top.......The old salt replied....Screw up the top......
Reply:After more thought on this I have another excuse........One of the attributes of being a welder for any amount of time is arrogance. Which stems from confidence, every welder that is worth his salt has to be arrogant. This is a welder eat welder world and only the best get the top price. There are very few industries that require a person to be friendly, helpful yet cut throat at the same time than the welding industry. So.....from that mindset I am/was only acting as I have for the past 30+ years, offering advice while strutting a little as well. All welders are quilty of it, hell the way we dress, the way our rigs look, the tools we use.....its all about being seen and heard. Pride and arrogance are really close to the same........if you have one long enough the other shows up.A young green pipe welder asked an old salt one day...How can I make the weld on the bottom of the pipe look like the top.......The old salt replied....Screw up the top......