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I have a question....I'm wanting to bend a piece of 1/4" rod. It's mild steel, at least I think so, it's off the shelf from the local hardware store.Ideally an O/A torch would do it, nice and red and little force.How ever I don't have a torch. But I do have a tig.Has anyone ever used a tig on low amps to do nothing but heat a part to bend it?
Reply:it will work on a rod
Reply:Excellent, I'll give it a go. I'll take pics.
Reply:propane torch would work alsomiller... 225g, s32p, 250x, 304, 12vs, MSW41 victor o/a thermal dynamics cutmaster 50 lenco panel spotter hobart hf-boxG3 Farms.....raising cattle, hay, kids and hell, ...oh yeah I'm a fire sprinkler contractor by trade.
Reply:sucessfuly hav shrunk small stretched areas in body panels at a body shop that was out of o/a thermal arc 252i - millermatic 350P - miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs - Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:1/4" Rod? Stop being a girl and bend it. Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Originally Posted by sn0border881/4" Rod? Stop being a girl and bend it.
Reply:Wow, you just took the fun out of a chance to burn stuff and made me feel like a sissy at the same time, thanks If it was a longer section and the shape didn't need to be precise it would have been bent already. But hey I'll bet you can bend a 4" long piece of 1/4 rod to a perfect radius with one hand and have the radius start and stop exactly where it should.I all honesty heat might not be needed, but like I said I'll take any chance to mess around with new ways to burn stuff..... And the increase in hardness from annealing it will be helpful.
Reply:I heated some smaller diameter mild steel rod to make the 90 degree bend on a mechanical finger. Worked great!Lincoln Idealarc 250 (circa 1962)Lincoln Weldpak 155 w/Mig KitLincoln Squarewave TIG 175
Reply:Originally Posted by Upnorth But hey I'll bet you can bend a 4" long piece of 1/4 rod to a perfect radius with one hand and have the radius start and stop exactly where it should.
Reply:Originally Posted by UpnorthWow, you just took the fun out of a chance to burn stuff and made me feel like a sissy at the same time, thanks If it was a longer section and the shape didn't need to be precise it would have been bent already. But hey I'll bet you can bend a 4" long piece of 1/4 rod to a perfect radius with one hand and have the radius start and stop exactly where it should.I all honesty heat might not be needed, but like I said I'll take any chance to mess around with new ways to burn stuff..... And the increase in hardness from annealing it will be helpful.
Reply:Ooopppps,I should just stop typing before I embarrass myself further....I was wrong, annealing would make it softer, now to not confuse others more correct me if I'm wrong.....Steel can be annealed (made softer, and therefore easier to drill, bend etc....) by heating and cooling very slowly. Done by placing in an oven, warmed sand or wraping in a fire blanket.Steel can be tempered (made harder, and therefore less likely to bend, but easier to break) by heating and cooling very quickly. Done by quenching in water, oil or a mix of both. Oil is preferred because it will absorb the heat slightly slower and make the steel less likely to be brittle......For some real confusion, copper is the opposite. It's annealed and made very easy to work by quenching. Try it with copper if you ever have to bend it, it makes a huge difference. However copper is very easily work hardened and it seems almost more and more so with each quenching. Playing metal grain structure is interesting but very tricky to get right. I once tempered the tip of a rod that was sharpened for use as a paper punch, tempered with just water it was so brittle a solid tap from a hammer would shatter it, with oil it was noticeably less brittle.Just out of curiosity maybe I'll try to see the difference on this piece between trying to anneal it by heating with tig and placing it in sand vs. bending it as it is.....And ya, now that I have it in hand 1/4" can definatley be bend without all of the above. Thanks though for the response, and Im sure that heating with tig will come in handy on other projects. I just hope others have benifited by all this....
Reply:Well, not exactly. What you describe as tempering is actually hardening. Tempering is akin to annealing, just not all the way soft, and is done after hardening to take away some of the brittleness.
Reply:Originally Posted by UpnorthOoopppps,I should just stop typing before I embarrass myself further....I was wrong, annealing would make it softer, now to not confuse others more correct me if I'm wrong.....Steel can be annealed (made softer, and therefore easier to drill, bend etc....) by heating and cooling very slowly. Done by placing in an oven, warmed sand or wraping in a fire blanket.Steel can be tempered (made harder, and therefore less likely to bend, but easier to break) by heating and cooling very quickly. Done by quenching in water, oil or a mix of both. Oil is preferred because it will absorb the heat slightly slower and make the steel less likely to be brittle......For some real confusion, copper is the opposite. It's annealed and made very easy to work by quenching. Try it with copper if you ever have to bend it, it makes a huge difference. However copper is very easily work hardened and it seems almost more and more so with each quenching. Playing metal grain structure is interesting but very tricky to get right. I once tempered the tip of a rod that was sharpened for use as a paper punch, tempered with just water it was so brittle a solid tap from a hammer would shatter it, with oil it was noticeably less brittle.Just out of curiosity maybe I'll try to see the difference on this piece between trying to anneal it by heating with tig and placing it in sand vs. bending it as it is.....And ya, now that I have it in hand 1/4" can definatley be bend without all of the above. Thanks though for the response, and Im sure that heating with tig will come in handy on other projects. I just hope others have benifited by all this....
Reply:Just remember, if you are using mild steel, there is not enough carbon in it to harden, so it cannot be annealed either, plus it bends rather easily.
Reply:The steel we played with in the shop was likely cold rolled......And on copper, quenching seems to me to make a big difference......
Reply:Originally Posted by UpnorthIf it was a longer section and the shape didn't need to be precise it would have been bent already. But hey I'll bet you can bend a 4" long piece of 1/4 rod to a perfect radius with one hand and have the radius start and stop exactly where it should.
Reply:Never had an issue with quenching copper after brazing. Seems the same as letting it cool on its own.I cant even comprehend the pyscho-babble spam above. Theres usually a point, right?Lincoln Power MIG 210 MP ( boat anchor )Lincoln Weld-Pac 100 HDHobart IronMan 230Cutmaster 42Jackson NexGenSumner Ultra ClampsDWM120
Reply:Originally Posted by MadMax31I cant even comprehend the pyscho-babble spam above. Theres usually a point, right?
Reply:Start with a piece about 3 feet long. Clamp in the vise a piece of pipe or shaft as big as you want the inside of the ring. Then tack the piece of rod to the outside of it and start wrapping it around it as many times as you can. Take a hacksaw or a torch or side cutter wheel and cut all the rings at once. Put them in the vice to straighten them up and you got it. Harold |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:04:00