Tig - Torch Movement

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I have been trying to practice tig, and read some of the Miller manuals, and also looked around the internet on what is the correct way to lay down a bead.  On some material it says to establish the puddle, then tilt the torch 15 degrees, push the puddle, pull the torch back a little, add filler, then repeat the process.  On other sites it says to tilt the torch and push the puddle, while adding filler at the front of the puddle without the back and forth motion of the torch.  I want to get that nice stacked dimes look and penetration at the same time.  Which is the correct way?Also, sometimes I will get bright arc flashes but I am almost positive the tungsten never touches the weld pool.  Is there any other reason I would sometimes get bright arc flashes?  Sorry, one last question, if the tungsten gets contaminated, can I just regrind it, or do I actually have to break off a portion of the tungsten and regrind?Thanks
Reply:just keep your torch moving at a steady even speed and make as many short even dips with your filler as you can still keeping them consistent. Dip your rod just behind the front edge of your puddle. I believe that is the best way to learn how to make a nice, perfect, even,  bead. Each time you dip your rod, it will leave another "dime". After learning that really good, you can try moving around all you likeIf you are using an auto-darkening helmet, that device may be causing  "flashes"If and when your tungsten gets severely contaminated, you can just break the end offare you using stainless?Last edited by Mark...; 01-13-2008 at 03:35 PM.
Reply:First awnswer was very good.I wanted to add.... To get the stacked dimes look try this:As you are welding count in your head 1 2 3 4, 1 2 3 4, 1 2 3 4just as a musician does. You will be suprised at how even the spacing will be.As far as the bright flashes, it could be that you are lifting your torch at the end of the bead. DON'T, instead just let off the foot pedal and leave the torch over the last puddle untill you hear the post flow gas shut off. Takes a little practice.
Reply:The flashes could also be caused by mill scale or some type of coating that has not been removed from the material from cleaning. weld it like you own it
Reply:Do you guys pause at all?  Meaning, say you move the torch and you dip the filler in, do you just keep slipping it in or do you kind of pause for a moment and proceed?
Reply:I was taught to do TIG stringer beads by traveling in a straight line at a constant speed, no pausing, and dip the filler into the front of the puddle at a consistent rythum.  The constant speed method works fine, but I see nothing wrong with using some kind of pausing or back step method, as long as you can be steady and consistent in doing it.  A pause coupled with a little circle of weave motion may help ensure good uniform fusion of the joint sidewalls.
Reply:I changed the sensitivity and delay settings on my hood and the bright flashes disappeared.  Thanks "Mark" for the insight on that one.  I hadn't even thought of the hood causing the bright flashes..Also, I have been practicing the constant motion and dipping and am able to run beads pretty good without contaminating the tungsten.  However, most of my beads seem to be somewhat flat on top (they look like stacked dimes but flat), and I get most of the humped up welding on the backside (no burn through, looks like good penetration, but the bead is just flat on top).  Should the top of the weld be flat or raised a little?I'm running 75 amps, on 1/16 mild steel, with a 1/16 red tungsten and 1/16 filler.
Reply:75 amps is on the high side for 1/16 steel IMO.
Reply:try a 3/32 tungsten, 1/16 inch filler and move to 65 amps. Also, if you are flat at 75, you could just move a bit faster.
Reply:It's great that you are learning and welcom to the forum. I personaly dont go for dimes. I try to keep the heat input to a minimum while beeing as smooth as posible. Most of my TIG welds are smooth and flat. When you pause you are making a larger puddle and introdcing more heat into the part. That can cause warping and a larger HAZ. When I was welding food grade stainless for KRAFT Foods it was strictly against the plant policy to do anything other than srait and smooth. The state milk inspectors office does not alow it because it is a haborage issue with bactirea. When we welded 3A milk pipe it was 90amps 1/8" red tung. and no filler. We would back purge the pipe and it would be as strong or stronger than the pipe. My point is all the welds we made were strong we never had issues with welds breaking and we never used the "dimes" weld. Learn to weld smooth with proper penetration and no air holes and then you can play with a diferent look. Steel Thunder Welding LLC. St. Thomas VI USAMM350PBOBCAT 3MAXSTAR 150 STH375 EXTREME PLASMA6.5 HP COMPRESORDEWALT 18, 24, AND 36 VOLTO/A TORCH SETAND SO MUCH MORE I DONT REMEMBERALL IN MY 2005 2500HD EXTENDED CAB L/B
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