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Greetings,So, for my first project I made a small portable welding table from plans on the Miller site. The legs/frame are of mild steel square tubing.Now I want to paint it. My question is, do I have to grind the whole thing down to the bright silver metal, or just go over it with the wire cup brush with the grinder?What is this "mill glaze" you speak of?After grinding, I plan on wiping it down with acetone or varsol, then prime and paint.Is priming always necessary? I have seen something for automotive use called, "etching primer." I plan on using spray paint cans from the local hardware/farm supply; Krylon, Tremclad etc.Thanks for the help.Last edited by Tony Mo; 10-14-2009 at 08:59 PM.
Reply:I wouldn't paint the tabletop as that will reduce your ability to ground your work. Mill scale is that grey coating on the metal. It's pretty tough to get off with a wire cup. A wheel would probably work better. If you plan on leaving this thing indoors I personally wouldn't paint it at all. I like the look of mill scale.
Reply:No, you don't have to grind it down to the bright silver metal, cup brush is fine. Wipe it down like you said and prime and paint. Mine is just primed. I would'nt paint the top, that way your work will always have a good ground. Mill glaze (mill scale) is flakey pieces of steel. I know not a very good explanation. Sorry!
Reply:i agree, since it indoors i wouldn't paint it. instead rub it over with an oiled rag everynow and then to keep gunk off of it. if you paint it you have to have a dedicated ground spot for the grounding clamp, or you have to ground to the piece your working on. no paint you can clamp it wherever you want.if you really wanna paint it, just go buy some metal paint at the local paint store and follow the prep instructions(i recommend oil base paints). if the metal was rusty, or had any hardened material on it i would run a wire wheel over it lightly. keep in mind that any imperfections in the metal will show through the paint. if you want a "glossy" or smooth finish, i use an aluminum grinding wheel (the ones with all the layers laying on top of each other) and run it over the entire surface. then i take an oiled rag and run it over the entire surface to remove any small debris, then follow the paint instructions. also remember to follow the dilution directions if it calls for it. a guy borrowed my paint gun to apply a primer coat to a trailer and the mixture called for mineral spirits, well the gun is now toast because we cant get the jets unclogged from the paint he left in it. i have been told that alot of the quality comes not only from the painter but the gun itself. if you want a good quality job do some research and find a good gun for your application.I break things for a living...
Reply:Screwed up and double-tapped ...Last edited by SpyGuy; 10-15-2009 at 01:38 AM.
Reply:Shoot everything except the tabletop itself - paint isn't a good conductor for welding. As for the top, I'd hit it with a flapwheel on the old angle grinder, make it nice and shiny and remove all traces of rust and paint from it. Krylon or Rustoleum should do ya fine.... Remember: lighter topcoats (white, yellow, orange, lighter colors) need a light base coat, otherwise the topcoat will turn out darker than expected.Another trick is to flip the table over, and weld a big bolt underneath to act as a dedicated ground for your clamp. Found that trick on here somewhere ....
Reply:I've been trying something diffrerent for painting iron. It's called "Flood Penetrol". It's supposed to be mixed w/ oil base paint to eliminate brush marks, but I've used it as a primer on bare iron. It makes a good smooth surface for the paint whether brushed or sprayed. I guess time will tell how it holds up. MikeOl' Stonebreaker "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Rustoleum the legs and anything but the work surface. For what it is, I wouldn't even bother with removing the millscale on the painted surfaces.
Reply:For work benches, I've always liked just a regular rubdown with WD-40 to keep the rust at bay.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Originally Posted by smokin_dodge..., well the gun is now toast because we cant get the jets unclogged from the paint he left in it.
Reply:My experience ...I don't bother trying to get the mill scale off. A wire wheel simply polishes it - it doesn't seem to remove it. And I don't want to spend the time to grind it off - in spite of the primer surface preparation instructions.I have been using Sherman-Williams All Surface Enamel Oil Base Primer with excellent results but I am sure any top quality primer will work.And then I use Rust-oleum Hammered Enamel as the top coat.I have spray equipment but the over spray is an issue in my small shop. Therefore disposable brush and foam rollers plus a four inch "trimming" paint tray are the primary application tools.I put a sheet of Glad Cling Wrap in a paint tray, pushing it down to conform to the shape of the tray. Then I pour the paint in the Cling Wrapped tray and have at it. Cleanup is simply wadding the Cling Wrap, brush and roller into a ball and throwing it in the trash. Cost is a 39 cent brush and 69 cent roller for for the primer coat and the same for the top coat and 15 seconds of cleanup time. The Hammered finish covers all kinds of brush marks and surface imperfection sins and leaves a nice hard, bright colored finish that seems to clean up more easily than the bare metal does.The only caveat I have is that for the black hammered finish - either I got a bad batch of paint in the can that I have or the finish does not flow out as nicely as the other colors do.Arvid
Reply:yes, I wouldn't bother painting the table top neithier.Rust Olem has good rusty metal primer which you should be able to paint rite over the mill scale.safety last
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWsmokin_dodge, if you go to a true automotive paint store you can get whats refered to as gun cleaner.
Reply:Thanks for all the suggestions. |
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