"Frankenwelder" repair ?

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My old 110 Miller Sidekick gave out on me after about 24 years of solid reliability through hard use. It was a great little machine ! Took it to my local authorized Miller repair shop and he determined that it was probably a short in the main transformer and that part is no longer available from the factory. I know, just get another machine ! I've already done that,(Lincoln 216 Powermig, Lincoln 175 tig and Miller 140AS.) so that isn't the problem. The old Sidekick still powers up,looks good, and works until an arc is struck then it just sputters. And I have a sentimental attachment to it !  So, the question is- Would it be possible to adapt a transformer from a newer machine into the Miller ? I have one of those cheap Lincoln's that Lowe's sells that I got at a Pawn shop cheap. Or I could get a cheap Chinese machine used and remove the transformer from it. Is this "Frankenwelder" concept possible ? Any daring Welder repairmen on this forum ? What think ye ?
Reply:Wait for duaneb55 to answer this one!"Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:This 'brain' transplant can be done...a) You have match the transformer input voltage - if the old machine was 115 volt use same, if 230 volt use sameb) The harder part - your old machine had how many current selector switch positions?The donnor machine should have the same number of current selector switch positions.e.g.  Suppose mindless had 5 selector positions, seek a donnor with 5 selector positions... that means there will be 5 voltage taps on the old/new transfomers.The rest is just doing the swap and bolting down the new transformer*.*Unless the old transformer had special separate windings to run the drive roller motor or something weird like that.Good Luck with this.Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:Let me get this straight. The welder powers up. Has open circuit voltage, will make an arc but then it goes out. This is not a symptom of a bad weld transformer. Possible cause is a shorted output inductor or weld capacitor. If that is the case you might be able to find an inductor from the same size welder and put it in, Or cut it apart and rewind it your self.The output inductor looks like a transformer but it only has two large wire connections and is in the DC part of the weld circuit. usually found between the weld diodes and the output terminals in series with either the positive or negative wires.Send me a PM if you would like to retest your own welder. All we need is a good volt ohm meter that has diode test.
Reply:That is why this forum is great , alot of these guys can walk you through this. Have you checked the output voltages with a Meter. Also could have a bad gun. If you have a substitute hook it up and try it. I have and old Side kick same vintage, know what you mean. Before I bought a 251 it was the only MIG I had and handled many a sheet metal project and bed frame material fabs too."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251   Syncrowave 300   30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200   1 short hood    SA250    SAM 400
Reply:I have to agree with ccawgc,the symptoms don't seem right for the problem to be a shorted transformer.I have a Cricket welder that is similar to the Sidekicks,good little welders.
Reply:You guys are giving me hope that this welder may be repairable.The unit does everything right until the wire touches metal, then it "sputters" or acts like the power goes away and it can't hold an arc. My repair man replaced a capacitor, but that didn't help. He thought that maybe the insulation had broken down in the transformer but it only manifested the problem when trying to weld. He seems sharp, but he didn't fix the welder and I think it's repairable.I guess I need to take a pic of the interior of the machine, or get a schematic, and with someones assistance, do some tests. I have built/repaired computers. The computer I'm using to write this has had some capacitors replaced by me. I've also repaired a couple of computer monitors, but I'm somewhat lost when looking at the innards of a welder. Should I take a photo of the inside of the machine and post it ?  Will a basic volt/ohm meter be able to do the testing ?
Reply:Hey Brad,I also have a Sidekick that I use daily......it's a sweet bugger that welds superb. I do hope you can get it back into operation. I looked at my owners manual schematics & it really didn't indicate any identifying data you could use for a replacement. There has to be a way to get the transformer output ratings, maybe trying to find someone close to you that has one that you could take measurments of their transformer taps. Anyway, here's some pics of my units' innards......Denny Attached ImagesComplete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:Here's the rest of the pics.....Denny Attached ImagesComplete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:I agree that additional testing is required.  Post the unit SN to make sure everyone can be on the same page when troubleshooting and referring to wiring and components.  It's not likely that there were any major changes to the machine over the years but manual revisions made it all the way to "H" so it's best to make sure.The insides of these aren't that hard to figure out if you take your time and identify the components and circuits by following along with the manual schematics.  The parts section is helpful in identifying the individual components.ccawgc kicked it off and can walk you thru it so I'll lay back as he takes the lead on this.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Nice "inside" shots Denny.  I forgot you had them.  Will most likely come in handy in the process. MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by BradTNThe unit does everything right until the wire touches metal, then it "sputters" or acts like the power goes away and it can't hold an arc.
Reply:In an ideal world you would have a volt meter,a load type tester and a AC/DC clamp on amp meter.It usually ends up that a spare pair of eyes is needed.
Reply:Wow, you guys sure are helpful...pic's posted etc. ! Here's the serial # JG095674  Stock # 902973- Owners manual dated June 1986, purchase date 5-8-87I notice one thing that seems different in "Yorkiepap's" photo's, the blue heatsink looking thing on the big transformer looks different. Otherwise that sweet little welder looks like mine except it's cleaner (and works !).
Reply:Hey Brad,I have the original owners' manual that came with my unit. This sweet bugger was given to me, FREE, 10yrs ago from a riding bud where he worked. Their company was upgrading & all the units being replaced HAD to go into the huge dumpster at their site. The supervisor HAD to see the unit go into the dumpster before he could write it off. Sooooooo, after the supv. went back into the shop, my bud grabbed it out of the dumpster & put it in the back of his Jeep & brought it to my shop the next day. Yup.....love those kinds of surprises.Anyway, the ser. # on mine is JH275407 & the owners manual has the purchase date 10/27/87 & the unit was purchased at the local Airco Gas & Supply where the company is located. Also, at the top of the manual, there is a notation from Miller that states: "Effective with serial number JH260362", so I surmise that there was a change with the unit, & maybe the it was the rectifier(blue heatsink indicated) that you noted.BTW, ALL my units are clean like that as I keep them covered when not in use. I don't favor the idea of all the cutting/grinding dust getting to the innards of any of my units. I've seen too many problems arise from others who don't keep their units covered & the metallic dust getting to the insides & causing issues with the relays & switches/dials/drive motor. Just a habit......so far been a good habit. Attached are some pics.I'm kinda leaning with papaharley03's opinion that there is a connection issue somewhere, maybe even in the heat dial circuit connections internally. Like I said, dust & dirt can play havoc with electrical connections. Keep us updated..... good luck.Denny Attached ImagesComplete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:Denny,  Covering the welders is a good idea...I think I will start doing that. And what a deal, a Miller welder for free !When this rig went bad, it was instant, no gradualness about it...if that clue helps.I'm including a pic of my machine below. I also have the original owners manual.I've been studying the parts list in the owners manual to try to familiarize myself with the various parts. Attached Images
Reply:That is a very interesting little machine!
Reply:hi i had the same problem with mine it sputtered then quit arcing.mine is just like yours with that small rectifier diode bridge.i was told on here it was prob burnt open.so the kid in me took it out and was curious about it, i cracked it open,it has little floating diodes.seperated by some thermal jelly.i noticed they were black and sooty i guess definatly this is the problem with mine and not a trans or cap.i havnt pryd open my wallet yet for a optionial a replacement compatable bridge,at 50 or 150 dollars depending.were you get one, or a generic universal? type from ebay.i did some research the better 2nd generation sidekicks have the heat sink type with alum plates and seperate threaded diodes.check the pics of yorkiepaps machine see the diff?this is an upgrade to the older delicate powertherm bridge.i will part with the 150.00+?? for this someday i hate seeing this sitting in the corner.i would replace this before over paying for the expsive,transformer or cap.my guess.plus can be dangerous for novices to do.Last edited by carsnguitars; 01-07-2012 at 12:57 PM.Reason: more details added
Reply:Brad, have to agree with the others here.An open circuit transformer, there will be zero power. It will be as dead as a door nail.A shorted transformer means, much heat, smoke, and burning smells, all pretty dramatic, and there would be no doubt about the cause from the charred mess!!The transformer is almost certain to be fine.The rectifier block is the most likely problem, or maybe the big blue electrolytic capacitor, or a loose connection somewhere.  Pull out the rectifier, and get someone to test it with a multimeter.Cheers,  Tony._________________________________Transmig 310 + Argoshield LightOxy acetyleneOxy propanePrehistoric stick welder_________________________________
Reply:Only thing I'll add is that if you get to a point where you determine you do need parts, don't overlook calling Larry Burross (Applied Equipment) in Dallas, TX.  He's got a couple city blocks worth of Miller welders and parts of every vintage, no joke...  I've never seen anything else like it in my life.CheersDynasty 200DXBobcat 250, TD Cutmaster 38 Hobart Stickmate AC/DC LXHobart 210 Mig / SpoolgunCentury Mig, O/A rigPress/Ring Roller/Tubing Roller/Hyd. Pipe BenderJD2 Notcher/IR 80gal 5hp compressorportaband/chopsaw/grinders/etc.
Reply:hey.thanks ill look him up,im here in texas, do you have his number?mabbee he has a spare diode heat sink part,hate the cheap bridge block type.
Reply:Originally Posted by carsnguitarshey.thanks ill look him up,im here in texas, do you have his number?mabbee he has a spare diode heat sink part,hate the cheap bridge block type.