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I bought a small 32" flat screen, and some of the TV stands/tables they sell are pure junk, made out of MDF, and way over priced. I was thinking of making one from steel tubing or angle. Anyone here made one or have any pics for ideas? Thanks!
Reply:Here is a good example of what you can do,I have some of these products which are quite good. http://www.boltz.com/I.B.E.W Electrician and Damn Proud of It !!!! .Virtus Junxit Mors Non Separabit http://www.shrinershospitalsforchildren.org/
Reply:Media Center - with built in PC... It's 26 or 28" TV... Attached Images
Reply:Here is one I did. Not so simple, but you could make it more simple.
Reply:Very cool TV table there.. MNT !How did you do the top of the table ? Are the wood pieces sitting on 'welded tabs' or is there a solid base under the square bar for the wood to sit on... ?Cheers,/Jman...Miller Diversion 165120 amp Buzz BoxVictor Oxy/Ace Oxy/LPGSmith "Little" Oxy/LPGHypertherm Powermax 30Lot's of Misc. tools n' crap....
Reply:That's a great TV stand. Are those perforated sliding doors in the lower level?"One of the things we have to be thankful for is that we don't get as much government as we pay for." (Charles Kettering)Mitch 180 (NZ)Lincoln SAM-400-220 + ?-400 Fordson Major + 2 x Tractapac Humber 80 + Procut 40 PlasmaMiller Spectrum 375
Reply:Nice looking tables!! Now I've got the wheels turning in my head, thanks!
Reply:I probably should have given a little more info. It is 1 inch square tubing, the square bar on top is 1/2 inch.Jman - the wood is resting on tabs on the bottom and screwed into place.Tractapac - yes indeed, perforated sliding doors. I had to make a track for the doors to slide in, so I used some 1/4 inch square bar and welded it into place. 3 pieces along the frame. Then lots and lots of grinding smooth to make it look like one piece. A milling machine would have been nice for that part, but... Anyway, once it was welded, then I had to straighten the piece out by heating the opposite side, and cooling. That was a little time consuming, but fun.The top is left over ipe wood from my deck I built, and most of the frame was left over from a planter box I built for a friend, so the cost was about right. Now, I am looking for a big piece of glass to go over the top. But I am to cheap to go buy one.Thanks for the nice comments.
Reply:One of the problems with a TV stand for a wide-screen is that it is fairly easy to tip over. That is why I bought a wall-mount set up.You can hear stories about small children knocking them over or upon themselves. It might be a good project for someone to build a wall-mount here since they cost anywhere from $200 to $400. If you do, please post pictures. Just thought I would add a good design would allow easy access to the back of the TV, like an accordion style system to pull it away from the wall. Thanks,SteveLast edited by rookie_steve; 12-03-2009 at 08:30 AM.JunkYard Tools .com
Reply:Ya I had thought the same think. the wall mount are way over priced. I think I can make one much much cheaper, if not i can still spend some time hiding out in my garageAdam MMorales Ranch
Reply:Originally Posted by mntHere is one I did. Not so simple, but you could make it more simple.
Reply:Here is one I made for my home gym/movie theater. The tv is in front of a sliding glass door so it had to be on wheels, not that I use the door very often, but it comes in handy when having large things delivered (appliances, couchs, etc.) It also had to be close to the glass because the movie screen drops from the ceiling in front of the tv. I got the uni-strut from work (price was right) and you can run the cables on the inside to hide them. I used a standard wall mount on top which I bolted on so it could be reused if needed. At one point I attached a shelf just under the tv for the cable box, but later decided to put the box with the rest of the electronics. I know it's very industrial looking but it goes with the gym equipment and is hidden when using the theater. Attached Images
Reply:I made two of these for a friend of mine that owns a bar. I used 2 1/2" pipe as the main hanger with 3" pipe as a swivel section. The end stop is a piece of 3" welded to the end. I built it extra beefy because of the fact that it will be in a bar. If someone were to hang from these it would break the bolts before anything else let go. No need to see them installed because they disapeard nicely behind the TV. They can be swivelled 360 degrees.Rene Attached Images |
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