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Alright guy, I was able to get power to the newly acquired MM35.  I pushed the trigger and nothing is coming out.  Where should i start?  Welder was sitting under a tarp for a year outside.  I know i know.Many thanksO
Reply:One start with the basics. Check and make sure you have approximately 230v between the 2 hots at the outlet. If not, chances are you wired it wrong some where. It's fairly common to see people wire a hot to the ground terminal by accident. 2nd issue might be that you have the breaker installed in such a way that you are pulling 115 v off the same leg with both breakers. Check that you have 230v between the two hots at the panel if you have 115v between hot and ground at the machine, but 0 between the two hots.Next are the jumpers in the machine set right for 230v power and not say 460v.Manual from Miller if you don't have it.http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o1301q_mil.pdf.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:DSWs' link will get you the lasted manual (revision Q) but in the event your particular machine is an older unit, go here http://www.millerwelds.com/service/o...uals.php?model, enter the SN, select Millermatic 35 from the list of machines and click Search to assure getting the correct revision.There were different generations of the MM35 and the age of the unit will dictate certain troubleshooting steps.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:I bought one of those once and it was a great machine. I just needed it for another machine on a really big job and gave it to the guy that used it on the job.
Reply:I should mention that the red light does turn on and I can here the motor trying to turn when I Press the trigger.
Reply:What is the wire feed speed set on?Unit Serial Number?MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Listen to Duanne, the resident PRO on older Millermatics.  He helped me get my MM200 going.  Like Duanne said, the SN is important.  It will tell you the machine age and which manual to consult.  That being said, make sure you have continuity between the 2 pins on the gun screw in connector when u pull the trigger.  If you do, it sounds alot like the problem I had with CR1.  It controls power output to the weld circuit and the motor.  On older machines, it's an open relay.  If you take the machine wrapper off, you should see it arcing when you pull the trigger.  the contact points get dirty and missaligned.  If you clean the point with some emery, the problem may resolve.  Newer machines or ones that have already been repaired have a closed CR1 that would need replacement.   Do you have power at the gun top when you pul The trigger?Listen to Duanne.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:Originally Posted by Drf255the contact points get dirty and missaligned.  If you clean the point with some emery
Reply:Originally Posted by papaharley03Try to use a dedicated relay contact cleaner or a metal fingernail file. Those types won't leave abrasive imbedded in the contacts you just tried to clean up.Just a tip...
Reply:Duane - Serial number is Jh218198 ( I did get the manual from miller website and put all my information in) - speed set, when I noticed nothing was happening I switch the speed to max. Drf255 - thanks will keep a eye on duane for his advice, will check the continuity (kind of hard since I'm alone, wife is 9 mths pregnant, I can ask my neighbor to help me out)I haven't checked the power yet at the top of the gun - I will try tonight, hopefully I get some free time from the family. Papa - thanks for the tip.  I will stay away from emery and sandpaper.  But I have no clue what relays I be checking, but soon will after I read some more.  Wirehead - thanks for checking out my thread.  Hopefully I get this thing running, without costing me a arm and a leg.Stand by guys for a updates - many thanks guys in advance@!.
Reply:Originally Posted by omanalansan  I pushed the trigger and nothing is coming out.  Where should i start?  Many thanksO
Reply:No silly question here,especially with me being a newbie with welders.  yes there is a HUGE spool of wire in the machine.  I dont' think the drive rollers are moving when the trigger is pressed, but i need to confirm that tonight.  It was raining last night and having the extension cord in the mud scares me with 220v.
Reply:If theres a huge spool of wire in the machine, and its been outside for a year, you might wanna scrap it. That wire needs to be clean, if its gonna feed at all.[Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:good point, but first i want to get the rollers moving with the wire when i say huge, its alot of wire.Last edited by omanalansan; 12-22-2011 at 01:42 PM.
Reply:Have you verified yet you do have 230v to the machine? Not just you think you do, but checked it with a meter and read 220-240v between the hots.You wouldn't believe how many guys will swear they do and have issues only to find out later, that they had the outlet wired wrong and only were getting 115v to the machine all along..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Based on the SN you listed, the manual revision you should have is "M" or manual number OM-1301M.Lance is 100% right - you don't want to be running dirty/rusty wire thru the gun.  It will wear and contaminate the liner (which probably should be replaced anyhow considering the unit has been outside so long.It's probably a 33# spool of wire which is hard to throw away but if it's rusty, you definately don't want to be using it as it will only cause problems from feeding issues to poor weld performance.To check the gun switch, check for continuity between the two pins of the gun trigger plug (Figure 4-1, manual page 22) with the trigger pulled.  However, if the main contactor is activating (loud "clunk") when you pull the trigger, the gun switch is OK and you'll need to look at other things such as control relay CR1 that Drf255 mentioned.  What you think is the motor attempting to run may just be the normal hum from the main contactor.  If you don't have the housing wrapper off it will be hard to tell.Having set outside in the weather, I wouldn't rule out tarnished motor armature commutator bars preventing current flow from the motor brushes to the commutator resulting in the no motor action.  Some voltage checks when you get into it will tell more.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:DSW - its my dryer plug.  so its def 220v
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Based on the SN you listed, the manual revision you should have is "M" or manual number OM-1301M.Lance is 100% right - you don't want to be running dirty/rusty wire thru the gun.  It will wear and contaminate the liner (which probably should be replaced anyhow considering the unit has been outside so long.It's probably a 33# spool of wire which is hard to throw away but if it's rusty, you definately don't want to be using it as it will only cause problems from feeding issues to poor weld performance.To check the gun switch, check for continuity between the two pins of the gun trigger plug (Figure 4-1, manual page 22) with the trigger pulled.  However, if the main contactor is activating (loud "clunk") when you pull the trigger, the gun switch is OK and you'll need to look at other things such as control relay CR1 that Drf255 mentioned.  What you think is the motor attempting to run may just be the normal hum from the main contactor.  If you don't have the housing wrapper off it will be hard to tell.Having set outside in the weather, I wouldn't rule out tarnished motor armature commutator bars preventing current flow from the motor brushes to the commutator resulting in the no motor action.  Some voltage checks when you get into it will tell more.
Reply:DSW is correct. You could have a problem with the extension cord, etc. Just verify you have good 220v to the machine. You have to start there, work your way through to find the problem. Chances are the power is good, but just take a minute and check it.Congrats on new baby coming!Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:WB4t. good point, will check the voltage, man i'm a bit nervous when it comes to 220 vs 110 volts.  110 tickles and i don't know how 220 will feel if i do get shocked.
Reply:Originally Posted by omanalansanWB4t. good point, will check the voltage, man i'm a bit nervous when it comes to 220 vs 110 volts.  110 tickles and i don't know how 220 will feel if i do get shocked.
Reply:nice one Killdozerd.  can't wait for tomorrow, I have the day off and I can finally have a full day of light so i can perform your guys suggestions on how to get this machine finally up and running.  many thanks again guys and happy holidays, thanks for being patienced with this newbie.
Reply:Since you can hear the motor trying to turn, first check your input power, then release the drive roll and pull the trigger and see if the motor turns. It may just have a clogged up liner. If the motor still will not turn, ut is trying you may need to pull the drive motor and transmission, crack the case and clean and lube the gears. I have had to do that on one of my machines as it was crudded up with years of shop dust.
Reply:My friends Millermatic 35 sits right beside my welder just out back they are a great little machine. It was the first wire feed i ever saw and ran .That was back when i was in high schoolHis belonged to his father who did ornamental iron with it for years and after he passed.It sat for a few years then when he needed to do some welding he had it sent to miller and the only thing that was bad was the drive motor and the relayI just used it a few days ago you can't be a mig for tacking thing together faster than smawBut because we have no shop.Welding in the great outdoors is a PITA but you can shield it from the wind with a gloved hand long enough to tack stuff then i weld it with the TB 302 smawBacked my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me  What would SATAN do ?? Miller Trailblazer 302 AirPakMiller Digital Elite  Optrel Welding HatArcair K4000Suitcase 12RC / 12 VSHypertherm PM-45Rage 3 sawRusty old Truck
Reply:Alright guys, I finally got some time today to work on the welder.  Have juce,rollers are not moving when trigger is pressed.  Sometimes i get a buzzing noise and most of the time i get a motor sound that is stuck.  I have videoed the sounds and the welder (hopefully the link works), Let me know what you guys think.  once again many thanks in advance. [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDozLgSN25w[/ame]Motor not moving but it sounds like it is getting power Check for power at motor input leads when you pull trigger.. again use meter Could be froze up / brushes could be badYou can pull wire from the tip of the gun ..just not to over look wire stuck in liner problemBacked my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me  What would SATAN do ?? Miller Trailblazer 302 AirPakMiller Digital Elite  Optrel Welding HatArcair K4000Suitcase 12RC / 12 VSHypertherm PM-45Rage 3 sawRusty old Truck
Reply:Killsdoz - thanks for looking at my video clip.  Ok will check the motor, do I need to remove the other panel to get to the motor?
Reply:Open the other side.  See if the CR1 (which should be top center of the other side) is arcing when you pull the trigger.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:Thanks Drf255 will open the other sidesorry for being a newbie what does CR1 stand for?
Reply:Originally Posted by omanalansanThanks Drf255 will open the other sidesorry for being a newbie what does CR1 stand for?
Reply:Considering you downloaded the manual, look at page 3 of the Parts section to see the location of CR1 (item #10) to observe if it's activating or not as Drf255 stated.Using the electrical diagram in the manual (or in machine to the left of the spool of wire) and the parts breakdown to identify/locate the components and circuits, check for the following:1) 24VDC at the brown and white motor field leads with machine on only.2) DC voltage at the red and black motor armature leads with trigger pulled.  Voltage should vary based on position of the wire feed speed dial.Your findings will determine what should be checked next.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Old - thanks for the tip Duane - thanks for the advise will check it out tomorrow.  Will let you know what i find.  Many thanks! Hopefully i can record a video again while testing your suggestions.
Reply:I forgot to mention, your first trigger pull in the video sounded like the main weld contactor was chattering which can be caused by a defective CR1.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Duane - thanks, anyone know how much a CR1 will cost me?
Reply:IIRC it's around $70.  You cannot get the old open design.  You will have to buy the kit which converts you to the newer closed style CR1.  If you already have the new style CR1, it will be cheaper because you will only need the relay and not the kit.  IIRC, around $48 for the relay alone.  VIt sounds like the same problem I had.  I used emery to clean my points and a needle nose to make sure they were square.  The reason for the emery was that it was flexible and I was able to slip it between the contacts without removing the relay.  All I can say is that's what I used and did, and I have had zero problems since.  I called Miller about he drive motor.  The tech said its very rare for one to go.  His exact words were "they are very robust motors and rarely fail".  Try to clean those points up first, you have nothing to lose.  I will try to find and post my repair threads.  I have a MM200, but I think they are designed almost the same.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=60215TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=60628TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=60016TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:Originally Posted by omanalansanDuane - thanks, anyone know how much a CR1 will cost me?
Reply:***EDIT***Thanks guys for your suggestion and merry christmas. DRF - not getting a arc at the CR1 location when I press the trigger. Duane here are the answers i got, 1) 24VDC at the brown and white motor field leads with machine on only.Yes getting 24VDC2) DC voltage at the red and black motor armature leads with trigger pulled. Voltage should vary based on position of the wire feed speed dial.Not getting a reading at all when trigger is pulledLast edited by omanalansan; 12-24-2011 at 01:35 PM.
Reply:sounds like CR1 is badBacked my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me  What would SATAN do ?? Miller Trailblazer 302 AirPakMiller Digital Elite  Optrel Welding HatArcair K4000Suitcase 12RC / 12 VSHypertherm PM-45Rage 3 sawRusty old Truck
Reply:Originally Posted by omanalansan***EDIT***Thanks guys for your suggestion and merry christmas. DRF - not getting a arc at the CR1 location when I press the trigger. Duane here are the answers i got, 1) 24VDC at the brown and white motor field leads with machine on only.Yes getting 24VDC2) DC voltage at the red and black motor armature leads with trigger pulled. Voltage should vary based on position of the wire feed speed dial.Not getting a reading at all when trigger is pulled
Reply:Originally Posted by omanalansanDRF - not getting a arc at the CR1 location when I press the trigger.
Reply:Duane you da manKilldozerd11: Opens mouth and inserts foot and makes self look foolishBacked my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me  What would SATAN do ?? Miller Trailblazer 302 AirPakMiller Digital Elite  Optrel Welding HatArcair K4000Suitcase 12RC / 12 VSHypertherm PM-45Rage 3 sawRusty old Truck
Reply:Originally Posted by killdozerd11Killdozerd11: Opens mouth and inserts foot and makes self look foolish
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55If SR2 is OK, the next thing to check is wire feed speed control rheostat R1.
Reply:Sorry guys got tied up yesterday with family stuff.  Hopefully I can do duane test tonight, hopefully this rain stops.  aarrgh.
Reply:Alright guys finally got sometime today to do some testing.  Got tied up with family stuff, bought the wife a mini-van getting ready for the 2nd baby to come in a week.  Good news is that my brother-n-law got me a huge discount on the CR1, i just went ahead and got one.  I'm going to install it now and hopefullly it works.  wish me luck . Duane - If the new CR1 doens't work i will proceed with your testing.  Sorry guys again for the long wait.
Reply:Alright guys, Since i got a new CR1 i went ahead and installed it how it was hooked up.  One of the felmale connectors was open nothing connected.  (you can see it in the photos below) is this correct.  Well still nothing when i pull the trigger.  Time to start testing Duane's tests. Guys, what does a SR2 and SR3 look like, can someone point it out in the picture below?  Many thanks!-OMAN Attached Images
Reply:SR2 is one of these two bridge rectifiers shown in the yellow circles.  Photo isn't quite close enough to tell which is which by the wire numbers to/from them but I'd guess the one on the right.  You'll have to check them to know for sure.  Use the wiring diagram in the manual you have to identify the wire numbers and thus SR2.I'll look back over the thread to review.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!