Aligning welded nuts to thru holes

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Aligning welded nuts to thru holesI do a share of fiddlely things that require accurately welding nuts in place, with the parent, thread clearance hole--still clearing the thread major dia. after welding. Using brass shims wrapped around the bolt threads, or pins, whatever--has worked well for me, in things big & small.Setting the nut firmly tightened by a dummy bolt b/4, prevents most weld distortionmovement, setting the nut threads square to the outside surface. Eyeballing this kind of stuff, is a guessing game. Wrong guess means trying to carbide burr and/or drill the parent metal--then deal with whatever burrs have been created, or damaged threads...and you've got a crappy looking clearance hole.Cutting small brass shim stock, to wrap at least 2/3 of the diameter of the dummy bolt threads centers the bolt. The lettle shim pieces are re-usable.Below is an example.This is a 1/4-20 coupling nut (plating stripped off with acid), with mating capscrew. The clearance hole in the steel plate for this was drilled at 19/64" (.297") dia.Used a .010 thick shim, curled around the dummy bolt.The dummy bolt threads are sprayed with graphite anti-seize---to prevent heat gallingafter welding, so the dummy bolt can be removed. On larger I.D. threads, these can begraphite coated as well.Above is the lettle shim, ready to pluck out, to then do the same service on the other side of this bracket.Above is the completed delta bracket & welded nuts, with the end use capscrews test-threaded in, to make sure there's no binding. [This is the handle arc bracket used on RX-20 rotary carpet cleaner machines. It's off a brand new unit (never used) and requires, as usual, rather extensive re-work, to function, due to the manufacturer's incompetence. I've done ten$ of thousand$ of repair and re-manufacture on RX-20's. They're like an annuity!]Blackbird
Reply:I typically just put a bolt into the nut, tack it, remove the bolt, and weld it.
Reply:Originally Posted by EngloidI typically just put a bolt into the nut, tack it, remove the bolt, and weld it.
Reply:I like this idea with the little shim.   Thanks!MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Glad I finally hit on this thread.  Good tips.  Geesh!  I've got so much stuff to remember, and not enough time left to use it all.
Reply:You can also run a tap in, if the nut moved off to one side a little. I use 5/16 bolts to hold jig pieces together. Its easier for me to use stainless nuts to weld on instead of strippng plating. But dont use stainless bolts to hold them on. You wont like how stainless to stainless after heat will gall. I use a std plated bolt with some antisieze. In fact I never put a stainless bolt and stainless nut together without antisieze, even just finger tight. I have had them gall.mm135HTP Invertig 201 With water cooler9" Southbend LatheLots of hand tools.
Reply:Another tip...  after welding the nut, don't try to put a bolt in it until it's cooled down.  Otherwise, you could damage the threads and get the bolt stuck.
Reply:When I'm worried about alignment I use a countersunk socket head cap screw to hold the nut.  The taper will center it right up!
Reply:Originally Posted by TubularFabWhen I'm worried about alignment I use a countersunk socket head cap screw to hold the nut.  The taper will center it right up!
Reply:Originally Posted by TubularFabWhen I'm worried about alignment I use a countersunk socket head cap screw to hold the nut.  The taper will center it right up!
Reply:Originally Posted by TinbasherI use the same method...it works great Weld nuts work really good too