welding oil pan

admin

Is there a safe way to weld a 1/2" crack in an oil pan without removing it from the truck? Thank you in advance for any and all answers.
Reply:Not advisable.  It would be better to braze the pan if removal is impossible.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:You could mig it. It will likely need 2 passes to close it up, the oil may very well keep you from getting a good seal on single pass. Please, drain the oil first.... you'll have a black river running otherwise. Or try to braze it; it is up in the air either way.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Originally Posted by rkymtnman30Is there a safe way  to weld a 1/2" crack in an oil pan without removing it from the truck? Thank you in advance for any and all answers.
Reply:I have replaced many pans and yes it can be done on the truck if the pan is empty. Put you find you'll have a hard time getting any weld to fuse to the metal with the residual oil in the pan. Best advise do as I always do! 1st drive over to the auto parts store get a new oil pan gasket as well as a small tube of RTV. Drain all the oil from the oil pan then remove the oil pan.Using  Acetone (cause it doesn't leave  an oily film) clean both the inside and outside of  the area to be welded. Lightly grind the outer area of the oil pans cracked area. Now go back over that area with an air blow gun and also do the inside of the pan to make sure none of grindings got stuck in any residual oil.Go back over the area to welded to ensure the air blow gun did blow any residual oil into the welding area of the pan.Now you should be all set to either braze or mig it. personally I like brazing because I get better puddle flow and fusion or the two metals.When reinstalling the oil pan be sure the new gasket is fully in place by using something like Permatex Form-A-Gasket Sealant Liquid as it will tack the gasket in place on the oil pan while you slip it into place up against the engine block. While doing this place some RTV in the corners of oil pan overlapping the oil pan gasket (this method ensures a well sealed oil pan on the fit up to the engine block).Hope this helps,TomGood luckAnd yes danrep that is why I always take the oil pans off. So I avoid the flying parts and the liability issue.Last edited by specter; 03-13-2009 at 12:37 PM.Co-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.&  2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:JB weld itG3miller... 225g, s32p, 250x, 304, 12vs, MSW41     victor o/a thermal dynamics cutmaster 50 lenco panel spotter        hobart hf-boxG3 Farms.....raising cattle, hay, kids and hell, ...oh yeah I'm a fire sprinkler contractor by trade.
Reply:best to remove pan.. be safe you didn't say  ?  is it steel or ali vote go the extra  remove do it right
Reply:ok folks again to liability issue. If you do the JB Weld on your own vehicle thats one thing. But if you own a company and  use JB Weld to repair the pan you open your company up for liability should that JB Weld ever come loose of fall off that oil pan.Play it safe do it rightCo-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.&  2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:rkymtnman30,  If you can get the oil away, and the injury cleaned as described by Specter, a silicone seal will fix it. After all, the engine is probably assembled with mostly silicone gaskets.First apply just enough silicone to seal the leak; this is only a seal, it needs to have a back-up reinforcement. Next, back-up the seal by placing  a reinforcement patch over the injury.  Either a JB weld cap, or a bit of metal siliconed over the injury makes a great cap.Good Luck
Reply:When I was operating full time, I refused to repair any on the vehicle.  Take it off, and it's a done deal.  Braze, MIG, TIG, O/A weld.  It ain't worth the liability issue possibility, to do them on the vehicle.
Reply:I tried to mig ( Hobart 125) an oil pan on a 1987 F-350.  And to be honest.......   I WILL NEVER DO IT AGAIN.I was the biggest PITA I have ever done.  If the truck is your use JB Weld.  That is what I ended up doing, after four attempts.  Yes four, I am stubborn and was not going to let this beat me.  Well guess who won.
Reply:In some cases, the pan can not be completely removed. If this is your situation, you can still unbolt it and drop it down as much as possible. This will allow the gases to vent, a,d you will likely be able to clean the pan well.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:I vote siliconeIf you drain the oil, and let it sit long enough where the oil isn't seeping out of the crack, and you can clean the area with a solvent, it ought to work fine.  The RTV sealers made by Permatex are really pretty darn good for just about anything like this.  I use the Blue, and Black a LOT"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:So that's how Alfred lost his tooth!!!!!!!!!!!!"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Seems like the gasket would be destroyed if the pan got too hot, requiring the panto be dropped in the end anyway.  Guess it depends where the crack is relative tothe gasket.
Reply:I remember the good old days when you could almost do a frame-in overhaul on my old Slant 6 in my first Dodge PU.  It was in the days when they came with a plain old I-Beam axle, and had enough room around the engine to climb in and work on the thing.Of course, the old engines were toast after around 100k in those days.  My Powerwagon still keeps on chuggin' though, and it has near 275k on it."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I would use JB weld Like suggested. I ahve done it several way and JD weld is just as good. Make sure to get some good brake cleaner to was it down, sand it down, wash it down with cleaner again and then spread on the JB weld. It should out last the rest of the oil pan by far.Miller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammSo that's how Alfred lost his tooth!!!!!!!!!!!!
Reply:First off thanks guys for the quick responses. The pan is steel it is on a 1991 F-250 I run her off road alot, yes it is my truck. The pan is jammed in a spot that in order to remove it I will have to hoist the motor up drop the pan as far as it will go reach up inside it remove the oil pump then fight the pan out as it wedges between the bellhouse, the crank, and the crossmember. If I pull the danged thing it's staying off and I'll replace it with a new one, putting one back on is the real challange once the pan is lined back up you have to get the oil pump and rod back in with one hand bend up ****-eyed. I have toyed with the idea running a 1/4" line with about 40PSI from my compressor into the pan through  the drain to vent it as I weld this small crack, it is a 1/2" right in front to keep the heat down I was thinking of hitting it with 3-5 spot tacks instead of the whole 1/2" at once. Have I just slipped off my cracker and should just pull the dang thing and get on with it, what do you thinks?
Reply:I have expressed the way I would do it. OK we know the cross member interferes. Is this a standard or automatic transmission!? I am wondering if automatic and it has inspection plate sometimes the plate can be removed to give the necessary clearance to slide the pan back and be able to drop it. Just a thought.Co-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.&  2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:I have had good results using a large soldering iron ( an iron with about a 1" tip), and just soldering a sheet metal patch in place over the crack or puncture. Much less heat required.Drain the oil, scuff the crack area to bare metal, cut the patch to give about 3/16" coverage all around the damaged area.I will admit to having done some gas tank repairs (on the car) with this method, but I don't recommend that anyone else try it.RexLast edited by rode2rouen; 03-14-2009 at 02:31 PM.
Reply:How about some juicy fruit!!!!!!.................... ON the truck I agree cover with patch and maybe try "spotting" with MIG. Worked for me. Just make sure you're not to hot!.................Goodluck!!!!!!!!Don't let that iron in your lungs, turn to lead in your @$$!!!!
Reply:Ooops posted in wrong thread.This is ancient, I ended up here through "search" and didn't mean to bring the thread back up. Mod - Please deleteThanksLast edited by denrep; 07-13-2011 at 01:15 PM.
Reply:been there done that wont DO IT AGAIN. drain plug out almost finished when a 12 inch flame out the drain hole missed my right eye by inches, took a while to grow new eyebrow.
Reply:Oil is generally a combustible liquid and not a flammable liquid, (shouldn't go bang) BUT Many ways for gasoline to combine with oil in a motor, like rings not sealing and other entry points, now gas and vapors are in your oil pan. best way to do on the truck it to inert it with nitrogen or other Inert gas. Do not run compressed air in there to vent it. For fire and exlplosions you need fuel , heat, and Oxygen, If it is very rich with fumes it shouldn't ignite, you add the air and you may have just created a very explosive formula or mixture. best way is to drain and inert with nitrogen, or CO2. most don't have the equipment. Better yet to remove the pan, or find no heat method.   1/2 inch crack? How about drill and tap a plug or bolt in the space with a good sealer."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251   Syncrowave 300   30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200   1 short hood    SA250    SAM 400Hi Everyone,I'm looking for some kind of advice. I have an Audi A4 that is leaking some oil. Perhaps up to a quart a week. THere's a smal hole/crack on the bottom of the oil pan. The stealership has quoted $670 for replacing the oil pan, but i've been reading that TIG welding may do the job just fine.If I decide to go this route, who would I call? An auto Body shop? a regular mechanic? Who would have such tools for welding? I would appreciate if somebody could point me in the right directionAlso, what should I expect to pay to have this done by a welding professional?Here's what the damage looks like.