Tig welding . questions

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HelloStarted Tig welding for the first time todayT-joints, Lap joints, root welds (first day)i did little small C's, not advancing very far and taking my time, trying to keep constant leg lengthsusing 3/32 filler rodI was curious, if someone could quickly explain how Zapp (or anyone for that matter) does that look like thisim guessing, constant, longer advances forward then what i have done , always dipping or always melting the wire?More practice i'll for sure figure it out, but was just curious to how its done. so i could have a better idea when i practice and compare whats been said to what i see and be able to make better judgementsI do assume, thicker filler rod with higher temps with obviously melt more metal into the weld, allowing you to move faster, further then what i have done with the TWell, Thanks for reading and any advice or input would be greatly appreciatedThank YouYes, i own a FREE Porn site
Reply:i dont manipulate the puddle when TIG welding, stringers for me.  i believe he uses a positioner, which rotates the peice.  Torch hand and filler hand stay in one place.find a way to steady yourself, get a puddle going, dip, advance, dip, advance.  Try to add the same amount of metal each time you dip, and advance the same distance.  The further you get along your peice the less heat you will need, so you can back off on the pedal to maintain the same size puddle all the way through.PRACTICE, TIG welding is a highly skilled process, if it was easy everyone would do it right?haha good luck pal, keep at it
Reply:Thanks very much for the quick replyI'll try this method on mondayTyYes, i own a FREE Porn site
Reply:Zap can tell you for certain just how he did that weld.  But I would guess that drivethroughboy54 has the right idea.  Here's my recommendation:First off, skip the 'C' pattern torch movement.  Concentrate on moving in a perfect straight line.  Use a 45° work angle, pointing into the corner of the joint, and 10-20° of push travel angle along the joint.  Keep your arc length short, 1/16" at most, and your tungsten sharp.  Tungsten stickout of no more than 3/8" beyond the edge of the cup.  If your torch has the right size cup, you may be able to rest the cup edge on the base metal, and push/slide the torch along the joint. If you're dipping the filler, try to add it to the upper half of the puddle.  This will help keep your leg lengths even.For better consistency in welding your T-joint fillet weld, you can try a lay wire technique.  Lay the filler wire in the root of the joint, and steadily advance the torch along the joint.  You can 'walk the cup' by rocking it up and down, first touching the vertical then the horizontal sides of the joint.  This will move the torch forward in small increments. You can also slide the torch or freehand the torch to advance the puddle.  If your amperage and arc length are correct, the puddle will move right down the joint, consuming the filler metal as you go.  If you're too hot, or the arc length is too long, the filler will melt out ahead of the puddle, and you'll have to push the filler back into the puddle in order to get the right fill.You can also dip the filler by sliding it back and forth along the joint.  Steadily advance the torch, and push the filler into the puddle.  Pull it out and ahead of the puddle to stop adding metal.  Don't pull the filler too far out, or air will contaminate the tip of the filler rod.  When you get the distance just right, you'll be able to add filler in controlled amounts, without cooling the puddle and causing it to shrink.  Keeping the filler rod close, but not too close to the tungsten will provide exactly the right amount of pre-heat to the filler metal.  Again, amperage, arc length, and tungsten stick-out are all important to making this work smoothly.Lay wire is simple once you get the hang of it, but you run a risk of getting linear porosity along the joint if there isn't enough heat to fuse the weld all the way down to the root of the joint.  This may or may not be a problem, depending on what you're welding.Dipping the wire usually prevents this linear porosity from happening, but takes more practice to perfect.
Reply:Excellen, thanks very much for the information, i will definatly try this method on monday when i go to do my required projectsThanks againWas curious if you had any advice on vertical up in a T or root jointIm assuming it would be kinda similar, i did a root in flat position, i just had the filler rod (3/32) resting in the groove (like you mentioned for the T) and slowly went over it and had a pretty good fill/penetrationalthough the face looked kind of sunken in a little, not sure if i went to slow/if the gap was to wide or if i added enough fillergonna have to practice and seeThanks in advamce for any vertical informationYes, i own a FREE Porn site
Reply:Lot's and lot's of practice to do it like zap does.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:years and years of practice at thatbut as i am on day 2,  im just asking for general knowledge that may help myself and possibly any other newbie that might stumble across this Tig Welding topicpractice practice is a given, as i intend to do, but just curious of the knowledge of Vertical and root passes experienced people in the art of Tig welding may be able to offer at the current time, i have the books and i have read them, but thats all theory, which in most part is 98.7% real and trustworthybut you come across such topics as , "which penetration is better for FCAW/MIG"... forward, backhand, perpendicular .. i myself have 2 books that say two different things while my instructor says something else While saying there are many different opinions which contradict themselves. (Note this is the weekend and im trying to learn on my offtime which i do often, without bugging my instructor, who's opinions i trust 100%, for now)so since this is a Professional welding forum, i was curious to different opinions from experienced people, practice is a given for anything in life your going to do if you have the ambition to achive and excel at it above your peers which then comes back full cycle of me helping and teaching from practice and experienceThank you for your post tho and Thanks in advance for any information, advice or opinions givenIm also learning CnC programming on my off time also, which im getting the hang of, but this isnt the forum for that i knowLast edited by WH33LS; 04-06-2008 at 06:56 AM.Yes, i own a FREE Porn site
Reply:If your vertical up beads are convex, you're spreading the puddle too wide, or not using enough filler.  If you're using a laywire, vertical up (which I've not tried), you might consider using a larger diameter filler wire, less side-to-side motion, and always make sure to keep your arc length as short as possible.  Long arc in TIG equals a wider cone of heat, which promotes spreading out the puddle.
Reply:Thank you very much for the quick responceMuch appreciatedYes, i own a FREE Porn site