Aquarium Stand Project

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Hello all. I have a project that I am going to tackle and I could sure use some help. It has been awhile since I really did some welding, but I figure a few days practice and I should be good to go. I have a design concept but could use some expert options on my structure.So here are some of the details. It is going to be a 3 tier aquarium fish tank, each tank will be 8'L x 30'W x 10"H. I am hoping to use 3" x 2" stock but I am not sure on the thickness that I will be needing so here is one of the areas that I need some help. The pictures below will help on the basic design. Now I will be putting some vertical support mid span on the 8' section, but I will need to bolt those in... at least on the front side. I didn't add any cross bracing on the horizontal (8') or vertical risers so I am hoping for some ideas on those too.Here is also some stats on the tanks them self.Glass Weight = 285bls per tank - 855 total (x3)Glass and water weight = 1325lbs per tank - 3975 total (x3)Here is a basic pic of the final projectHere is the basic layout of the structure.(sorry... I forgot the add the 30" wide measurement)Any input and comment would be great so I can get this thing moving. I'm sure I have forgot lots of items so chime in on what it needsThanks in advance and looking for all replies
Reply:8 foot of glass, i see the glass bowing out at mid span for the sides and bottom.
Reply:Originally Posted by transit8 foot of glass, i see the glass bowing out at mid span for the sides and bottom.
Reply:Why so shallow, what's going in them?HH 187Miller Bluestar1EAHP AlphaTig 200X
Reply:Originally Posted by GreyhorseWhy so shallow, what's going in them?
Reply:Looks like a good design to me. I think the solid stock is a little overkill though, especially from a cost effect aspect. I would look into some 2"x2"x1/4" angle iron. With a couple straps of 2"x1/4" welded in from front to back on the bottom and 1 vertical brace in the center front and back you would be good to go. You don't need any x bracing as the three tier angle frames act as bracing together. I would build the three frames individually then join then them with the legs seal welded top and bottom. JMO
Reply:I would use 4x4 plate at the feet to displace some of the load. Check your flooring, you have 2 tons  there.UA Local 598
Reply:Originally Posted by JonnyrodLooks like a good design to me. I think the solid stock is a little overkill though, especially from a cost effect aspect. I would look into some 2"x2"x1/4" angle iron.
Reply:Also you might want to either put some cross bracing on the bottom of each tank perpendicular to the 8 foot run. Just make sure you don't have the glass resting on the steel, there will need to be a cushion or you risk the glass cracking from any bumps from the welds.As someone said you're putting 2 tons over 4 pads of roughly 6 in^2. That's 500lbs per foot.Being me I'd probably throw some 6"x6"x3/16" gussets at every load bearing corner above the cross members. But I like overkill.Last edited by 65535; 02-02-2010 at 10:20 PM.
Reply:Plan>B,  The set up you have on the bottom shelf is what you need on every shelf.  You will also need 1/4 to 1/2 plywood under each tank.  You could get away with 1/4 and use a foam board to help level out the load. That will help the tanks from sagging.  You could also get away with using 2" square tubing with 1" angle on top of that to help keep the tanks from moving.  My only concern is the 8' span and the wight load on it.As for the tank set up are you going with a closed loop from top to bottom.  Or are you setting each tank on it's on water system?As for your height of 10" are you going to grow softies, are SPS? Because you could get away with a shorter tank  for softies( mushrooms, brains, BTA's)  Plus what are you going to use lighting.  Are you going T-5 or Hal.  Please keep us up to date, as you can tell I am also a Saltwater finatic ( pun / not typo).I am tired of Ketchup, I want the Gravy...
Reply:is this going to be a planted aquarium        thermal arc 252i  -  millermatic 350P -   miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs  -   Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:You always want to shoe angle iron, it can really dig and cause cracks. I would think the bottom cross bracing in your drawing is a lot of work and unnecessary. Cross bracing you would make like a big x out of steel from one top corner to the bottom corner on the opposing side on the back. In my opinion that's not even necessary if you use the 2x2x1/4. Three tons evenly distributed isn't nothing for that schedule. As mentioned before I would inlay some chaffing material to prevent chips and shards from forming between the glass and steel. Just remember, it's not a Rolex.
Reply:Originally Posted by woi2ldis this going to be a planted aquarium
Reply:Originally Posted by partagasPlan>B,  The set up you have on the bottom shelf is what you need on every shelf.  You will also need 1/4 to 1/2 plywood under each tank.  You could get away with 1/4 and use a foam board to help level out the load. That will help the tanks from sagging.  You could also get away with using 2" square tubing with 1" angle on top of that to help keep the tanks from moving.  My only concern is the 8' span and the wight load on it.As for the tank set up are you going with a closed loop from top to bottom.  Or are you setting each tank on it's on water system?As for your height of 10" are you going to grow softies, are SPS? Because you could get away with a shorter tank  for softies( mushrooms, brains, BTA's)  Plus what are you going to use lighting.  Are you going T-5 or Hal.  Please keep us up to date, as you can tell I am also a Saltwater finatic ( pun / not typo).
Reply:Should be able to use 1x3 seeing as the weight will be on the 3" vertical you should need much side to side.
Reply:Hi, As an example,  I recently got rid of my breeding tanks, but I did build my own stands for all of them, The biggest 2 layer stand (5 ft long and 4 legs) I built was out of 100mm x 50mm x 2.5mm RHS Galv. and it carried 1 tank (48"L x 22"H x24W" ) top layer and 2 tanks  (24"L x 22"H x 24"W) bottom layer. I think there was approx. 1000 lts of water in all plus the weight of the tanks, so all up about 1200kg (about 2600Lb). Tanks were out of 10mm glass. The stand had 2 levels with the shelves having 3 cross bearers (50mm x 100mm x 2.5mm) plus the 2 ends 100mm x 50mm x 2.5mm, a layer of 12mm ply and a layer of 10mm styro foam as compressive padding (very important) under the tanks.I only used this steel as it was scrap from building my garage.Now the problem in your case isn't in the vertical steel legs not being able to support that weight, it is in the horizontal steel flexing. Having the center of the stand reinforced with a middle support leg will virtually eliminated all flex of that distance at it will only be a 4ft distance between the legs.Now just using the size RHS that I used, I could have made that stand another 2 layers higher and the legs would have still supported double that weight comfortably, steel RHS (and angle) under compressive force is much stronger than most people realise especially since you are using 1/8" thick. (3.175mm). 3-4 ton spread over 6 legs is not really a lot of weight for that steel size that you are planning to use. Also had a 6000lt (Approx 6.6 ton ) deisel tank sittting on 4 x 1 mt legs (75mm x 75mm angle x 6mm) once.Another tank stand I built was for a 1.5mt L x .6mt W x .685mt H 630Lt aquarium and it was out of 50mm x 50mm x 2mm SHS steel and 1mt high. 6 legs and braced with some 25mm SHS shelves and 50mm x 35mm x 2mm on the ends. Total weight approx 2000lband that is out of 50mm x 50mm x 2mm steel, these are just to give you an idea. Even this stand is overkill.However I would prefer to use 100mm x 50mm as the horizontal bearers as they will bend less than what you are planning to use but either way I cannot see a problem, just go into a few local aquarium stores and have a look at their stands and I think you will be suprised at what some use. Just remember to prime it and give a good coating of paint as rust will eventually show if you splash water over it. Weld the steel all around as you don't want water getting in to the joints. If you are putting on concrete floor, weld and seal the bottom of the legs with the same size plate ie; 3"x2" , if on a wooden floor, then sorry,  I can't advise you as you will have to get someone to work out the loads, but it will need significant underfloor reinforcement as most houses or wooden floors aren't designed to take 3-4 ton. Sorry about the long rave and mixing imperial and metric measurements.RegardsLast edited by Ed.; 02-03-2010 at 07:58 AM.Miller Auto Invision 456 + S-62 wire feederC6240B1 Gap bed lathe16 ft3 air compressor16 speed pedestal drillHafco BS-912 Bandsaw