Cleaning up a welder

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I have an older Sears welder that I am cleaning up.  There are several areas that need attention.1)  I have not put powered it up because I don't have an extension cord to run from the dryer outlet to the machine.  The on/off switch makes a definite ''THUNK" when clicked on but takes a few seconds to click to off.  Might the switch be bad?2)  The fan blade is broken.  The shaft for the motor seems to turn without it being bent.  Are the fans 120v or 240v?  There are two wires going to it and both look black.  I can pick up a used microwave pretty easy, so I was thinking I would just swap out the fans.3)  How do I generally clean the inside of it?  It is not horribly dirty inside but there is some surface scale on the steel parts and the mechanism that slides in and out of the transformer to adjust the amperage moves pretty stiffly.  Can I lube that somehow without creating a fire hazard?  There is also that stuff that motors seem to collect that looks like lint/cobwebs4)  The model is 113.201440.  DSW posted an exploded view of it from the Sears site on 01-14-2012, 07:15 PM in the Other Manufacturers forum.  I would really like to get this running, as I don't have a lot of money in it so far.  I will try to get some pictures later today. Thanks.
Reply:1. Switch is sticky, needs cleaning, then lubrication on the pivot points.2. Fan Motors are 220 volts.3. You can lubricate the sliding core with grease,Try using the "Search" function in the upper right hand of this Forum to find another similiar Machine that is being restored to working condition.
Reply:Originally Posted by jarheaddoc3)  How do I generally clean the inside of it?  It is not horribly dirty inside but there is some surface scale on the steel parts... also that stuff that motors seem to collect that looks like lint/cobwebs..
Reply:230v fans for units like that are pretty common. I looked into a fan for a different Craftsman welder not long ago, but they were not cheap. I think the fan and blade assembly was almost $50 from Sears parts direct. I might still be able to dig up the info if you can't find anything else. turned out the fan in that case was just sticky, and a good clean and lube and it was good to go. I did have to pull the blade assembly off, so I know that part was removable, but can't remember if they offered it as a separate unit or not. The fan blade assembly alone might be found at a computer supply or some place like McMaster Carr. The only blade assembly I ever needed to replace  also needed a new fan motor as well, so I simply bought the correct unit for the Miller machine..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Thanks for your answers.Is there a certain type of lubrication I should try to use?  Everything I have right now is geared towards my other hobby of old outboard motors and is petroleum based.
Reply:for the fan I used sewing machine oil. The small applicator made it easy to apply. You just want to lube the bearing areas, not the whole motor. A light 3 in 1 would probably work in a pinch or WD40.For the switch they make a special lube for high voltage applications. I'm pretty sure DuaneB has made a suggestion on exactly what type in one of his reply's on rebuilding tap type switches for machines in the past.Cleaning, I had a can of spray on electrical cleaner I got from a friend who retired and closed his business. Can't remember exactly what it was off the top of my head..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I'm thinking that I can fix the blade with a little creative engineering, and at worst try to find one that's about the same diameter.  Are those motors thermostatically controlled or on constantly? It's broken at the hub, which I should be able to reuse in order to minimize wobble/imbalance issues.  It's my fault it's broken anyways, so I'll just add the fix to the list of things needed to get it running.  It will be a good project.
Reply:1) Sometimes a switch is connected to a relay this could be the cause of the delay. Switches don't often experience mechanical noise "thunk" since there are usually no big moving parts inside a switch, but then again, it could be spring loaded to ensure a positive mechanical connection. Best practice is to find a manual for it to understand the circut. Can't really tell from DSW's posted exploded diagram or from the site http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_pn...1504-00001.png. Here is an alternative: http://community.craftsman.com/topic...3-201440/posts "...found the owner's manual for the 113.201440 ARC Welder on the Sears Parts Direct.com site. It is part number 61353, selling for $7.49, plus shipping" Just to point out, the manual may not include a schematic.2)Why not just replace the fan blades, diagram shows separated motor and blades? They are usually held onto the motor shaft by a set screw and can usually find blades at appliance supply stores, probrbly sears itself, Miller or Acklands, etc. Google or Yellow pages and a phone for local sourcing. Not all fans are 220volt, my stick welder's isin't. Check the label on it, it's usually fairly clear or find that manual for it, that should detail the issue for you.3). Greases and oils collect and hold metal dust, regular dust and can conduct, particularly on humid days, crezating potential shorts; new welders are ungreased on these type of assemblies. I always work a connection until it works smoothly, this usually knock off any corrosion within the connection and moving the connection (10-30 times) usually frees it up. My welder was exhibiting weaker welding, I spun the potentiometer 20 or so times to let the wiper clean the windings and voila, back to spec! If you do decide to grease the sliding core, use a dielectric grease. Also use your compressed air to blow out dust and paintbrushes as Rick V does or some similar device to remove cobwebs and the like.Hope this dosen't induce confusion, let us know how things work out, enjoy your 'new' welder and good luck!  Last edited by bearston; 02-18-2012 at 09:33 AM.
Reply:The spray DSW was refering to is contact cleaner."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWCleaning, I had a can of spray on electrical cleaner I got from a friend who retired and closed his business. Can't remember exactly what it was off the top of my head.
Reply:Quick note about 220 Volt welders.  If the welder needs 110V, you cannot just tape one phase and neutral.  That would mean that some current would be flowing down the neutral wire.  It is not designed for that.  In the case of most welders, you are only hooking up 3 wires, that means neutral is meant to be ground.  As a safety item, there should normally not be any power going down the ground wire (if there were, and the case was grounded, you could get shocked by touching the case).I know there are TIG weldes and Mig Power supplies that have 110V plugs for accessories like coolers and wire feeders.  If you look at the schematic, they make their power from the other side of the transformer.  That is OK.Con Fuse!Miller Dynasty 350Millermatic 350P-Spoolmatic 30AMiller Multimatic 200Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3Miller Maxstar 200DX
Reply:The switches in my Linclon/Millers go THUNK because they are big 50 amp rated switches that use the spring to slam it shut for mechanical contact and spring it open to reduce arcing which could occurr if opened slowly. In the Miller manuals it states to lube the sliding core and the screws on annual basis. Assume the fan needs to be wired 220/240 due to the Nuetral/Ground comment madein previous post.
Reply:McMaster-Carr has fan blades I could use.  Do I need a right or left hand roatation and how many CFM's do I need?  Also, will it matter if it's plastic or metal?