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any ideas on the best way to shine 321 stainless pipe? they are 9" dia and 8' long roughly the titanium is what makes it a pain to polish from what i have heard does anyone have any ideas?
Reply:Electropolish?
Reply:Bet i can knock that tube out in half hour my way depending on the scratches . I have to ocassionally polish stainless and ti on super duper $$$$$$ high end tubeing to a mirror finish , but on a smaller scale than you........so if there's a faster way , i beg you to tell it. I dont know if this will help but Here's my latest greatest fastest way : 3m UNITIZED wheels EXL 2S FN , they come in all widths and sizes and are very expensive , i know of a few alternatives to EXL 2S FN but thats the consitency you want........then compound with Black , cuts deeper scratches out the fastest...i sometimes stop there...or go grey and or green for mirror chrome. Use a DeWalt 849 7-9 inch buffer with a WOOL PAD for all your wide open BIG AREAS @1000 to 1600 RPM , its a variable speed buffer High Torque (((((For tight nooks and cranny areas ...use a SPIRAL SEWN wheel on a high torque Low RPM hand held buffer , a 4000 RPM air tool is perfect ( like say a tire buffer or air pinstripe remover , air eraser tool ). Make shure the spirals are sewn closely together , i'd say each stitch should be no more than 1/8 to 1/4 inch above the next in the spiral.))))) If you have deeper scratches or crimps in the tubeing let me know and i will continue. Attached Images thermal arc 252i - millermatic 350P - miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs - Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:ooops...the pads Attached Images thermal arc 252i - millermatic 350P - miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs - Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:Good info woi2ld... I tried a stainless steel buffing project recently on a stainless steel trim ring I weld repaired that goes around a wheel, and it was taking forever. I used an 80 grit flap wheel to get it roughed into shape, and then tried various polishing steps after that.I was using a loose-sewn cotton wheel with black compound and it just wasn't aggressive enough (not getting the deep scratches out.) So I added other steps before, hand sanding with sandpaper and also with scotchbrite pads (both way too much work.)I had some 3" scotchbrite discs/pads that I probably should have tried on my die grinder, but didn't think to at the time.Anyhow I focused on one spot to use as a demo, sanding, scotchbriting, and black emory polishing out all the scratches (ran out of steam before I got to the finer compounds) and it was looking pretty amazing, but way too much work for me.I showed it to the customer and he was just totally blown away with what I did with the welding and the 80 grit flap wheel work. So anyway, that's how he wanted it and that's how I left the rest of it.I would like to try those 3M wheel things you are talking about,
Reply:The best way to polish and protect those pipes or tubes is to have them electropolished.Call first and ask if there will be any special considerations.The time and cost will be a fraction of the cost of hand polishing them through all the grits.Most importantly only the electropolishing will truly protect them from corrosion.Last edited by Donald Branscom; 03-31-2012 at 06:53 AM.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:electropolishing is the way to go with this ... Its how we do it at work and provides a micro finish -to mirror that increases corrosion resistanceMiller Xmt 350Lincoln Ln-25Ahp 200xSmith Gas Mixer AR/HTig is my Kung FuThrowing down dimes and weaving aboutInstagram http://instagram.com/[email protected]
Reply:yah electroplateing /polishings the best On exhaust , i dont even know wtf that is. I was just on a BSing rant at whatever time in the morning that was. I bet if your in a hurry tho , or just a poor mother fuker like me , that one step with the black compound the dewalt and less than 30 minutes. sorry Attached Images thermal arc 252i - millermatic 350P - miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs - Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:Originally Posted by jakeruI showed it to the customer and he was just totally blown away with what I did with the welding and the 80 grit flap wheel work. So anyway, that's how he wanted it and that's how I left the rest of it.I would like to try those 3M wheel things you are talking about,
Reply:like i had to sand this crimp out....think i went 120 with the contour on a portable belt , maybe less than a minute of finessing. Then either 3"roloc CRS or MED , 400G 6" DA , prolby a few minutes.....then EXL 2S FN a few minutes........then finallly Black Compound Wool Pad , i think im in the wrong thread though , electros the way to go. I gotta finish the clusterfuk i started though so im not completely insane Attached Images thermal arc 252i - millermatic 350P - miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs - Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:Whats up WOI, I buy new wheels every year at a swap meet, some guy, thats all he sells is polishing crap. The wheels I get are hard as a rock but soft on the face. Depending what im polishing i add or take off as many as possible on the shaft. These things are bad mother frs man. If your interested i'll try and get you some info, i'll see the guy in a few weeks. I use a 3/4hp polisher for most of my projects, and im far from a knoledgible polisher, but I get my $hit done one way or another and these wheels are the best ive used. Not home right now or I would send a pic. Even have a couple new ones that I bought with the wrong arbor hole. If they fit what you got I would mail em out to you. Not doing me any good sitting on my shelf. Ill get back to you tomorrow with hole measurment. If you try em and like em i'll get you some info in a few weeks. Or you may already be using them! And i'm yappin for nothing!I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:woi, I noticed the water on the floor with the milky polishing particles in it. Is that just from washing the black grit residue off the work before going finer (e.g., white or green) compound? If you are using water you must have a good detergent to go with it - curious how you are using the water...Or do you use some sort of a wet-polishing or sanding process sometimes. I'd imagine pressing down hard with a high power polisher like that dewalt can make a good bit of heat into the work (especially stainless which does not dissipate heat well) and using a wet process could keep things from overheating.I remember now, using the scotchbrite roloc to achieve an almost polished result (pretty fine scratches) in at least aluminum, and I think it would work well in other metals as well. As I recall the brown is quite aggressive, too aggressive for most "polishign" purposes, but I recall blue (the finest) would work and also maroon (the medium) would work well for that. I'd like to try a black compound with maybe a stiffer wheel like you suggest (stiffer / closer sewn cotton, or maybe wool) after a maroon or blue scotchbrite.I have 2" pads as well as 3". I was also thinking about trying a finer grit flap wheel. But those don't conform and smooth the surface like a scotchbrite roloc disc does.Those roloc scotchbrite pads do load up, and I remember periodically "washing" them with solvent to keep them from getting all caked up. (Maybe water would have worked instead of solvent, but since I sometimes used them for weld prep, I just generally stayed away from water.) Brake parts cleaner from a spray can, I recall even worked to wash the roloc scotchbrite pads. They are pretty chemical resistant I guess.
Reply:Thanks for the replies, got a quote to polish 2 of the 8' main pipes and generators which are 6" and 5' long with boiler pipe thats 9"x4' for $3500 pretty pricey and hard to justify any ideas what electro polishing would run?
Reply:Originally Posted by mrbacklashany ideas on the best way to shine 321 stainless pipe? they are 9" dia and 8' long roughly the titanium is what makes it a pain to polish from what i have heard does anyone have any ideas?
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeWhats up WOI, I buy new wheels every year at a swap meet, some guy, thats all he sells is polishing crap. The wheels I get are hard as a rock but soft on the face. Depending what im polishing i add or take off as many as possible on the shaft. These things are bad mother frs man. If your interested i'll try and get you some info, i'll see the guy in a few weeks.
Reply:hi jakeru , we should start are own stainless polishing thread for the doit yourselfer , poor man or something and leave these knowledgable gentlemen be...I think we might be confuesing our system for the correct one on exhaust.....DavePowelsons in here and he's one of the big brains on this site of knowledge. I love his posts and sometimes click on his name to see where hes reading and posting. jakeru , i could talk to you all day on it , but our conversation may be makeing them go ahrrrrgh ! dude , its funny , but i get my a$$ beat up in here sometimes because im so far off base and find my self haveing to fight for any speck of diginity or respect i hav left....sweep myself up off the floor and move on thermal arc 252i - millermatic 350P - miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs - Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/50...less_Tube.htmlNot sure who sells that one retail. But you get the idea. Belts like that curve around the pipes better.Hit Walter Abrasives for the the belts themselves.The Walter version of the belt polisher will set you back about $1000 (or close enough to that number). Not sure how well these things work on a 8" pipe. The work great on hand railing type stuff.Walter, Metabo, Fein all make some higher end stainless polishing.If it were me, I'd see if I could get the pipe pre-polished, and just level and polish the welds. Just keep contaminates off the hot metal.Con Fuse!Miller Dynasty 350Millermatic 350P-Spoolmatic 30AMiller Multimatic 200Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3Miller Maxstar 200DX
Reply:Finish Selector PackIncludes one individually marked piece each of the four finishes: unpolished (#2B mill), brushed (#3 satin), brushed (#4 satin), and mirror-like (#8). Each piece is approximately 1 3/4" × 3" × 1/32" thick.Finish Selector Pack1113T11Pkg.$25.33http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3687/=gx58k3Whoever's asked for 'shiny' needs to commit to what is and is not acceptable,per samples, if any defects are allowed, etc.--in writing.Then, it's a matter of what methods and costs are involved to satisfy the request. If the pipes have not been installed, then some thought, planning and care needs to be exercised for special handling of the 'shiny' pipes.Blackbird
Reply:Originally Posted by jakeruwoi, I noticed the water on the floor with the milky polishing particles in it. Is that just from washing the black grit residue off the work before going finer (e.g., white or green) compound? If you are using water you must have a good detergent to go with it - curious how you are using the water...Or do you use some sort of a wet-polishing or sanding process sometimes. I'd imagine pressing down hard with a high power polisher like that dewalt can make a good bit of heat into the work (especially stainless which does not dissipate heat well) and using a wet process could keep things from overheating.I remember now, using the scotchbrite roloc to achieve an almost polished result (pretty fine scratches) in at least aluminum, and I think it would work well in other metals as well. As I recall the brown is quite aggressive, too aggressive for most "polishign" purposes, but I recall blue (the finest) would work and also maroon (the medium) would work well for that. I'd like to try a black compound with maybe a stiffer wheel like you suggest (stiffer / closer sewn cotton, or maybe wool) after a maroon or blue scotchbrite.I have 2" pads as well as 3". I was also thinking about trying a finer grit flap wheel. But those don't conform and smooth the surface like a scotchbrite roloc disc does.Those roloc scotchbrite pads do load up, and I remember periodically "washing" them with solvent to keep them from getting all caked up. (Maybe water would have worked instead of solvent, but since I sometimes used them for weld prep, I just generally stayed away from water.) Brake parts cleaner from a spray can, I recall even worked to wash the roloc scotchbrite pads. They are pretty chemical resistant I guess.
Reply:cant find a good picture of it Attached Images thermal arc 252i - millermatic 350P - miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs - Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:Originally Posted by con_fuse9http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/50...less_Tube.htmlNot sure who sells that one retail. But you get the idea. Belts like that curve around the pipes better.Hit Walter Abrasives for the the belts themselves.The Walter version of the belt polisher will set you back about $1000 (or close enough to that number). Not sure how well these things work on a 8" pipe. The work great on hand railing type stuff.Walter, Metabo, Fein all make some higher end stainless polishing.If it were me, I'd see if I could get the pipe pre-polished, and just level and polish the welds. Just keep contaminates off the hot metal.
Reply:Originally Posted by woi2ldheckya mike thx , id luv to try some, you'll be my new connection. You know exactly what im talking about , some of the wheels are soft flexible and stack as many as you need width wise on the arbor for greater surface cutting and polishing... crazy , USPS has big flat rate boxes in the post office , box is free , you can ship anything in there to ship anywhere inside US states for $5 bux no weight limit , i think 10$ for a really big box. I'll shootya back 20 to the addy on the box my new bud
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeHere ya go WOI, the yellow ones are the hard ones, and I found 2 soft ones for ya! they're 8in wheels with a 5/8 arbor. My shaft is 3/4, and I wasnt paying attention when I picked thes up last yr. The holes are ribbed on one side for strength, and i really wrench on these things, so I wouldnt think of drilling em bigger. If you can use em send me a pm with your address, and ill mail em out for ya. Only couple buck to ship bud so dont sweat it. Maybe one day I may need a favor. TRUST me those yellow wheels are sick man, wear welding gloves, and hang on. They eat up scratches man, forget sanding!
Reply:I know they look like sanding stones but there not. Here's the list i said i'd post. From TOP is the softest finest wheels....to BOTTOM of the list being the coarsest . The EXL wheels at the top of the list are so soft you can flex them nearly fold them over in your hand yet are made to rip at over 12,000rpm. You can buy them in ALL heights , widths and arbor hole sizes. You will need a combination of two of them depending on what grits you end with on the porta belt. Like i said ending on the 2S FN then compounding yeilds killer results. Keyword to google find them is "UNITIZED wheels" soft DENSITY = 2 softest most flexible fine scotch brite like to the most DENSE 8 or 9 DENSITY = barely flexible Attached Images thermal arc 252i - millermatic 350P - miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs - Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:I've done this before once or fifty times, so if my opinion is worth anything here goes.I generally start off with 120grit to level everything out, then I would prefer to step to a 400grit if available (usually they are not) Then I switch to a unitized wheel in case there is anything I missed and give it a QUICK once over. Then back to the belt sander for 45,15 and 6 mesh belts, (essentially a abrasive cloth, 1000-3000grit range) Finish off with green compound and that's it.This took about 6hrs to polish, but well worth it. Perfect finish.Have we all gone mad?Sn0boarder88 thats sweeetnesss!! in my labor , i thought there's got to be some kind of emery felt belts to end with. From your posts in the past , I knew you worked in high end tig shops. I to stepped 120 to 400 , but it seems mostly standard in google search to only get as fine as 180 belts mostly but i know finers out there . I was barely lucky to have 400 available but in 6" adhesive backed disk paper i used on a SOFT backed orbital thermal arc 252i - millermatic 350P - miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs - Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:hey snowboarder what do you normally get for something like that? I know some guys that are looking for some custom stainless exhaust elbows in 6" for semi trucks.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches. |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:54:41