bought a Miller 250...

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Well I took the plunge and bought a Miller 250 Bobcat from my LWS. I got almost as good a deal as online but it was worth it to me to buy it locally.  They have only #2 cable on hand. According to the manual, it says I should use #1 cable for 250 amps and that's what I think I'll get. My question has to do with the lugs and electrode holder/ground clamp. Are there any particular brands you experts would recommend? Also, the lugs are called "hammer on". I assume that means strip the wire, insert the end and just hammer them flat to secure. Is that about it or is there a better way? I was thinking of soldering them on or is that just overkill?
Reply:It's your machine, its up to you, you can can always cut the wire back in future to expose cleaner wire, or get some flux(a bottle) from an electronics shop and apply to the lugs before you press them on(to tin them) and heat it up and apply some silver solder,let the heat wick the solder in and you will have a nice connection, I started to do this with all my equipment that has battery cables replaced because their was acid and water outside to corrode them degradeding their life substantially.Never welder wire.It might be overkill but you will likely never have to deal with this wire again.
Reply:Hammer - ons work well if the installed correctly.  Soft soldering by itself is risky since a small resistance can overheat a soldered joint and it will release.  If you are really worried you could take a belt and suspenders approach.  It is unlikely you will be running your Bobcat at 250 amps unless you are considering a great deal of wire feed welding with larger wire diameters.  Consider 4 sets of  twist lock connectors such as Dinse brand with two at the machine on short tails then put your ground clamp on a fifteen foot lead and your electrode holder on a lighter six to ten foot whip.   Just remember the longer the cable run the heavier gauge you need.  Even # 1 is only good for 50 feet max at 250 amps.
Reply:Thanks for the info, guys. I think I'll try the silver solder approach and see how it goes. I also like the idea of using twist lock connectors so I can swap cable lengths. How long at the machine?  Two or three feet? And if I hammer the lugs on, do you just hammer them flat or use a punch like you see how a wire crimp tool works?
Reply:we keep about 50' of leads on the machine,  with a twist lock about 12' feet back from the stinger.  then keep another couple 50' chunks in the truck, with a twist lock in each end.  also run a twist lock on my porta mig, and tig welderBill BerryKeith Berry & Son Ltd.machine work, and weldingBear River Vollunteer FD
Reply:2/0 leads with male x female connectors, bolt on twist-lock "adapters" on the machine (Lenco CT-40FA), 10ft stinger of #2 and.... I'm a Tweco guy myself, but it's a level playing field.  Your LWS only had #2 cable on hand???
Reply:Originally Posted by rgunn1  Your LWS only had #2 cable on hand???
Reply:I use Duro rod holders-no springs. My oldest is over thirty years old. Used it all day today. Certainly worth the money.
Reply:I would get 4 sections of 2/0 with tweco twist locks, a 10' flexcable with a tweco at one end and your rod holder at the other, 1' of 2/0 with a tweco and your ground clamp.  Put twecos on your machine.   This will get you the ablity to run 250 amps 200 feet if needed later on.Lincoln 300 Vantage 2008300 Commander 1999SA250 1999SA200 1968Miller Syncrowave 200XMT350MPA/S-52E/xr-15Xtreme 12vs Millermatic 251 w/30A  Millermatic 251 Dialarc 250 Hypertherm 1250 GEKA & Bantom Ironwokers
Reply:And if I hammer the lugs on, do you just hammer them flat or use a punch like you see how a wire crimp tool works?