what is problem in my stick welding

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i am new in welding, and below are my one of first job that i wish to be fine, because it is a towbar and it should be good if it has a good shape because of cosmetic reason. at least it is the bottom side, so not so important. but what is the problem in weldind. the center is a 30mm diameter steel and sides are 10mm steel. my machine is not so good but it was not bad while i was welding thin steels like 2mm. i tried 3.25mm stick with 125amp, and 4mm stick with 175 amp. my stick is this; http://www.oerlikon.com.tr/pls/oerli...&product_id=63  my machine is this german based china made welding transformer. many thanks..
Reply:looks bad...id say you should slow down and make a puddle first then go really slow let the rod burn itselfmake sure you keep the puddle a puddle and nota line of chicken @#$@. try 7018 and practice on some scrap.....
Reply:oh by the way ur towbar looks like a penise....lol
Reply:Oh my... That is unsafe and simply has got to go.Grind out all of that weld and re-do it.  Looks like you may be going beyond the capabilities of your machine.I would suggest the following - NOTE: I am hoping that your machine is Direct Current Elecrode Positive (+) capable.  I don't care much for AC.Root Pass with 3.2mm (1/8") E 6010 at around 90 to 95 amps.Hot Pass with 2.5mm (3/32") E 7018 at around 105 amps.Fill and Cap Passes with 2.5mm (3/32") E 7018 at around 95 amps.If you use a multipass technique, you will make a much sounder weld than what you have there.  Yes, it will take longer than using a bigger rod, but what you have there is going to get someone hurt.  If that IS for "Towing" you may wish to re-think your design to more of a "U" shaped hook.  I'm not gonna comment on what it looks like.Last edited by Black Wolf; 11-30-2008 at 01:02 PM.Later,Jason
Reply:Like he said.Keep the rod in one spot at the beginning of the weld until you see a puddle of molten metal start to form.  Angle the rod so that the tip of the rod is facing the puddle.  Gently, and slowly push into the puddle in a semi circular motion to build up metal until it fills the gap between the flat and round.  Do this while continuing slowly along the weld.  The type of joint you are welding is difficult to fill.  It's fairly deep, and takes quite a bit of slow travel time.  It's a hand eye thing I guess."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:So you were using E6013 rod 1/8" at 125 amps and 5/32" at 175 amps. That sounds reasonable. Are you using an AC transformer welder?6013 is sensitive to contamination. It looks like you tried to weld over the paint.The surface needs to be ground prior to welding. You also need to clean off all of the slag before making a second pass. If it looks like slag is overabundant and flowing all over while you are welding, contamination is the problem. You can join metal with some contamination using E6011 but proper preparation will always make a better weld. If you pull the plates apart from the bottom as pictured they will probably break free without too much trouble. Grind everything off and try again. If it is a tow bar I would think there is a safety issue associated with a weak weld. Take your time, carefully align and tack the plates in place on all 4 corners before you weld it up. Good luck,BradLast edited by Brad Blazer; 11-30-2008 at 01:33 PM.Reason: typosLincoln SA200, HH135, Lencospot, HF80 Inverter, Rockwell 11x35 lathe, HF drill mill, Kama 554 tractor w/ FEL & BH, Belarus 250AS, lot's of Chinese tools
Reply:The rod you are using is basically a 6013. Not a good choice for a piece like that. It is a low penetrating rod and is sensitive to low heat. The results you are getting are classic for the 6013 and low amperage. They can be a pain that way.Here is the rod you should use....http://www.oerlikon.com.tr/pls/oerli...&product_id=76Last edited by DDA52; 11-30-2008 at 01:13 PM.QamuIs Heg qaq law' lorvIs yInqaq puS
Reply:Not only does the welding need held but your type of weld joint isn't hel;ping you out. While a round bar can be welded to a flat plate it's not something to try right out of the box. 2nd anything that going to take a load and go down the highway should be left to someone that has been welding for years and has liability insurance for such a job.Tough as nails and damn near as smart
Reply:To compound the problem, the "horn" looks like -don't ask me how you can tell by looking- it could be a high carbon piece, and not a very cold-weld friendly steel.With the through bolts, do you even need welds between the round piece and plates?Aren't the plates simply spacers or adapters?Good Luck
Reply:Omigawd! Horrible lol. Looks like my first stick welds lol.You need to build up a puddle, and get a bead going.*insert welding gibberish here*                    Mandy
Reply:This is an identical weld done in one pass with 6013 5/32 at 150 amps.  Notice the waves in the puddle, these are the basic hand motions to follow.  Some folks whip the rod less than I do.And another thing to consider is what type of steel the hitch is made of.  If it's other than mild steel 7018 would be the best choice of rod. Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:My vote is a polarity problem with the wrong rod.  It looks as if the arc was "blowing" off course.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:iv'e been trying to teach a new hire how to weld for about three weeks now. hes getting better but when he started his welds were similiar and it was his speed ...going to fast arc lenght ,rod angle ! slow down make a puddle... blah blah blah ....keep your angle  push that rod in there!!over and over again. its finally sinking in him though ..yes get the right rod 1/8 7018 id set it at 110-120  make sure your rod holder is in the positive terminal ...get a puddle  going and pay attention to that puddle damit ! keep your arc lenght short drag it if you have to dont be scared to push it in there ...its just like sex only it pays better. practice ,practice ...ill be in the truck drinkin my coffee!!!
Reply:Originally Posted by denrepTo compound the problem, the "horn" looks like -don't ask me how you can tell by looking- it could be a high carbon piece, and not a very cold-weld friendly steel.With the through bolts, do you even need welds between the round piece and plates?Aren't the plates simply spacers or adapters?Good Luck
Reply:The arc wasn't blowing at all...the op was wipping the rod way too fast with too low amps..... I agree with Don here get away from 6013 for that.... no sure what rod he linked to but I'd get it no questions asked if he recomends it....
Reply:bolts!
Reply:is it just me or is there not6 a lot of topics today?
Reply:2nd vote for polarity issuesit doesnt look like a speed issue. doesnt look like an amperage issueim assuming that they are both carbon steel?i barely ran 6013 rod, only in the beggening parts of my welding adventures, can u run 6013 on AC... and if u cant, is that (the welding pictures junior put up) the result of it?????
Reply:firstly thanks everybody. machine is AC, so i think i can't use 6010.i grind the surface; rust and paint. it is pure steel.another thing is that this piece is attaching the main tow bar with 2 strong big bolts as DENREP said. so don't panic. i am not going to attach with this poor weld. let me explain why i wanted to weld this. reason is that inspite of strong bolts, when i brake, my trailer push this piece and while accelerating it pull. so although it has bolts, this piece becomes loose because of the abrasion between middle steel and the small ones near it; wrong design. when i weld, it becomes rigid because the friction is not between line and area, between area and area. total friction force increases many many times. and trailer does pull and push the middle steel of course but it will not move, and than there will not be gap. below two images first the wrong design, and second the true one that i am converting to.(or using a square sectioned steel part instead of rod type steel fixes this problem)you will understand it;so, is it possible to weld with 6013 ?
Reply:That puts it in a better context. I would still stay well away from the 6013 for that. 7018 all the way.QamuIs Heg qaq law' lorvIs yInqaq puS
Reply:The flux of 6013 is what will fool you into thinking you are creating a puddle....that is what happened to Jr and more amps will help with it....another issue is the bolts what grade are they....they are metric I'm sure but seem to be low grade....as for the welding if you are going to do it do it right or not at all.....7018 AC rods will run fine in your machine...well so will reg 7018 if you have some time with them.....what size machine do you have...if it is a 110v type machine (100amps or less) then forget it for this job.....
Reply:Originally Posted by Joscerb552nd vote for polarity issuesit doesnt look like a speed issue. doesnt look like an amperage issueim assuming that they are both carbon steel?i barely ran 6013 rod, only in the beggening parts of my welding adventures, can u run 6013 on AC... and if u cant, is that (the welding pictures junior put up) the result of it?????
Reply:wow i *#@! quit !
Reply:Originally Posted by 84zmike.....what size machine do you have...if it is a 110v type machine (100amps or less) then forget it for this job.....
Reply:just kidding ...i can see why you want to weld it . if i were you i would guess its 7018 comp  ...no need to send it to a lab identifying metals is hard to do even to the exp. most lickly it ismild carbon steel. your machine size can hopefully run a 1/8 rod ive actully welded some heavy metals with 3/32 as long as you make multiple passes which you probably would do any ways  and it will be fine just go find a scrap peice of steel first and run a couple passes then once you master the bead weld that puppy up and if it looks or welds crappy its the steel hopefully.good luck anywaysOriginally Posted by junior230 and 380 volt together, 250 amp.
Reply:Originally Posted by jotramwow i *#@! quit !
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersamm
Reply:Originally Posted by jotramthats plenty...can i ask a dumb question...how long have you been welding ?
Reply:well there is no need to heat them at all ....thats more for codes and B.S . a package of rod in my opinioin for a home hobiest is good as long as you keep it dry if the flux falls of ...its no good ..toss it.just keep them dry i store mine in a old fridge in my garage thats not plugged in or put them in a closet in your hause just keep them dry. as far as one size thats a diffucult one cause here you are welding thicker material than usual ...id say go buy a small pack of 1/8 7018 just for this project it wont cost more than 10 $ and maybe practice a little on a scrap peice of steel , then tackle that hitch
Reply:Buy the rod in small quantities and keep it in a good rod holder and you won't have to bake it. If you live in a humid area bring your rod holders in the house. if in doubt it can be bake in a electric house oven. As a hobbist you'll be ok. I didn't catch the part about bolts holding the load at first. Not knowing your machine it may or may not run 7018. Even some 240 volt welders will only burn 7018AC.Sense you're using bolt to hold the load can you bore a hole in some square stock or have that done? It would be nicer looking that way.Tough as nails and damn near as smart
Reply:i never could understand those ac/dc rods.....can someone explain it?
Reply:The 7018's are "formulated" to run on an ac only machine....the flux is different and makes it easier to run on ac vs dc....this allows people with ac only machine to take advantage of the lohi rods that before were a pain in the *** to run on an ac only machine.....
Reply:i am buying this http://www.oerlikon.com.tr/pls/oerli...&product_id=70  ok? what do you think?
Reply:Alls I know is that regular 7018 is a DC rod.  But you can buy 7018AC for machines like my sorry azz lil' crackerbox, and it seems to run 'em ok.They probably just change the markings on the rod for idiots like me, so's we feel good"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by 84zmikeThe 7018's are "formulated" to run on an ac only machine....the flux is different and makes it easier to run on ac vs dc....this allows people with ac only machine to take advantage of the lohi rods that before were a pain in the *** to run on an ac only machine.....
Reply:Now if they ever come out with an AC/DC rod, I just might give that a pass.Folks around here don't believe in that sorta thing"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:7018 is an AC/DC rod. Some of the lower level ac welders do not have a high enough arc voltage to run 7018. The 7018ac rod will run at a lower voltage. 7014 and 6011 does well on either AC or DC. 6013 runs fine on dc- as well as AC.Tough as nails and damn near as smart
Reply:The 7018AC rod is still able to be used on DCEP.   The flux is different, actually I like it better for general use.  It will usually peel right off.  It is designed to work on AC at lower amps though and is noted for its easier light up and reduced sticking. Also the flux does not droop over the end of the rod.  It works great uphill or downhill on DC.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:Originally Posted by juniori am buying this http://www.oerlikon.com.tr/pls/oerli...&product_id=70  ok? what do you think?
Reply:Junior is obviously a better engineer than a welder ......   and this is intended as a compliment rather than a dig .......   Me, in your case, I would just bolt it all up, hit the tow-hook with a hammer to square it up, weld both sides on top with a quick 6010/6011, flip it over and do the same.   Then go over both with a 7018, all four welds, not worrying about dryness, ovens, etc. etc.   Even if the thing cracks later, so what????  The metal will still be there, the bolts are really what's taking the strain in this application.   Classic case of overthinking everything .........
Reply:Originally Posted by 84zmikeJR that looks like what we call 7014.... can you get the ones DDA52 linked to that are made to run on ac current..... 7014's are not much more than 6013's with more tensil strength but have the same issues that the 6013's do so you wont be doing any good....also you need some practice with what ever rod you wind up using...Mike
Reply:It looks like they are all 7018 and all can be welded with AC. Check out the symbols at the bottom of the page and this guide:http://www.oerlikon.com.tr/oerlikon/...polarity.htm#9Lincoln SA200, HH135, Lencospot, HF80 Inverter, Rockwell 11x35 lathe, HF drill mill, Kama 554 tractor w/ FEL & BH, Belarus 250AS, lot's of Chinese tools
Reply:Pics ain't workin DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:Might I suggest he weld across the end of the plate where it lays across the round rod? (a good penetration weld there would stop all movement and let the bolts hold it in place (assuming) he can't get a good weld in the root?  Perhaps he could run a hot root pas with 6011 that should run fine on AC and then "clean it good" and either build up with some 7018AC (didn't know they made the stuff) guess I am showing my age!!! or multiple passes with 6011/6013.  Gotta love the guys determination!Tim
Reply:6013 is NOT the rod for that job.  It is a shallow penetrating, poor fit up, type electrode.  Also, 6010 is a DC rod ONLY.  If you only have an AC machine, go to the 6011 rod for you root pass.  Run it hot, and be sure to remove ALL slag prior to running your 7018 passes.You were advised correctly by several folks to go the the 7018 electrode.BTW, you  stated thatheating the 7018 rods had to be done prior to use.  Thats for very strict code welding where every weld joint is xrayed, or could be expected to pass xray.  If you're still concerned about heating them, TURN YOUR OVEN ON.Good luck.
Reply:good greif i feel sorry for this guy...its a hitch ...why is his answere so long ? its a simple fix . only ten dif opinions on how to weld it , all of which are basicly the same ! i really like seeing all the pictures and projects here everyone is great  but c'mon really . .... i wont ever ask opinions on this site! cause you cant get the answere your wanting , everyone does it differently ! i will recomend this guy go to his local welding shop and ask them ,they will show you what rod to use and answere your questions better and you can do it on your lunch break, cause this is confussing and of course everyone does it dif , but which one do u pick???? nobody really agrees here. i am realizing after going to three dif welding schools and doing it "their " way and all are different but i passed all those bend tests ... good luck ...
Reply:If I was standing behind him watching and he asked, I would tell him. I would see why the weld turned out the way it did and be able to assist. Since I did not see the weld when applied, Notta.
Reply:"You have to learn to walk before you can run."The problem is you, not the welding rod or the machine. I'm not saying that to be mean, but from looking at the weld I can tell  you haven't learned the basics yet.To learn to make a simple stick weld just requires a little basic knowledge and some practice. Don't practice on something as important as a tow bar, and don't practice your first welds on complex joints (The joint you attempted to weld is called a "flare bevel". You should learn to make a basic fillet weld before you move on to flare/bevel and flare- V joints)Cut the weld you made out of that piece and *leave that project alone* for now. If it needs to be done in a hurry, take it to a professional weldor who can do it properly and safely.Get some scrap metal pieces and practice the basics. Read a few books and try just making some stringer beads first to learn holding the rod at a correct angle, selecting the proper amperage, holding the correct arc length, and maintaining a consistent travel speed. Once you have the basic skills mastered, you can move on to welding joints and learning the characteristics of different electrode types. When you have welding basic butt and fillet joints mastered, you can move on to learning more complicated things such as, vertical and overhead welding, selecting the correct electrode type for the job, welding code, metallurgy, heat treating, etc.I'm primarily a TIG welder so I'm no expert, but I can answer *basic* stick welding questions. Post a picture of a few simple stringer beads and the folks here can help you from there.Last edited by Hephaestus; 12-03-2008 at 12:48 PM.-Matt------------------------------------------
Reply:Get some scrap steel and practice for a few hours before welding anything else.... Sorry.