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How do y'all approach corners on a flat plate weld with bevel? Inside corners on a 2 or 3 sided weld? specifically when you are going to be laying a ton of beads, you have a big gap to fill?Finished a repair this evening and got to thinking about different ways folks do things. Most of my work is about as far from a code book or written procedure as you can get. They want it done, right there, right now. This weekend was no different. Broken cutting edge on a 13 yard bucket, not cracked - Broken, about 22 inches GONE (30 inches once I got it cut back to good) with numerous other cracks. Their solution was to bring me a piece of an old cutting edge, removed from a similar loader, that was the same thickness/width. Just under 2 inches thick, eyeball torch bevel on the three sides to be welded. ended up have about a 1/4 in land +/- and gap ran from dime to 1/2 inch.I ran the short sides first, all the way to the back then across, just wondering how others do it and why? I know I will probably be doing another one in the not too distant future.When any government, or any church for that matter, undertakes to say to its subjects, "This you may not read, this you must not see, this you are forbidden to know," the end result is tyranny and oppression, no matter how holy the motives.
Reply:On heavy material consider putting a bevel on both sides of the piece so that the land is in the middle of the section. This reduces the total amount of weld material you put in. That is one reason gouging is popular since you can create a U groove and reduce weld metal even more. A lot of cutting edge alloys cannot be cut with a torch. ( too much chromium etc in the alloy) I hope you used preheat. The choice of rod can be a problem if you do not know the parent metal. Some people go with E 11018. I would maybe look at some sort of nickel/stainless alloy. There are some good flux core wires that have nickel in them and are intended for such work.... wire feed is much faster. |
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