Tube to spike ideas

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I have a project I am going to create, and it will probably involve some 1-1.5" tubing; however, I need to make one end into a spike.  I thought about flattening one edge and then cutting it into a spike, I though of cutting one end of the tube at an angle, but I would like something better than what I have come up with.  Something more true "spike like" would be nice.Any ideas out there?The Lord has declared, "This is my work and my glory--to bring to pass the immortality and eternal life of man"  Moses 1:39Link: My name is John, and I am a member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints.-- ColdCreekWorks.com --
Reply:Orange peel it. That's small enough tubing it shouldn't take a lot."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:Assuming it's mild iron, someone with a forge and the skill to use it could point the tubing easily, particularly if the material has a bit of thickness. Without the skill, it would be a job getting a decent uniform taper.With access to a lathe, it could also be "spun" into a cone on the end, using an internal mandrel.
Reply:Not sure what you mean by orange peel it.... sounds like drywall texture.I don't have a forge or lathe.  I have a welder, grinder, plasma cutter, small press brake, chop saw, sander, and a few other little things.The Lord has declared, "This is my work and my glory--to bring to pass the immortality and eternal life of man"  Moses 1:39Link: My name is John, and I am a member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints.-- ColdCreekWorks.com --
Reply:Layout your point with the point at the mid point of the flat.Mark your lines upward toward the outside edge of the tubing.  Depending on the shape of the spike, depends on how high up the line goes.  Usually about 2-3" works.Then cut out the outside of the tube, toward the center point.  Then heat & bend the "flaps" in to make the point.You can lay it out fairly easily, once done, use the cut off piece as a template.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Weld a few inches of solid bar into the end and grind her down.If you don't want to stand behind our Troops, feel free to stand in front of them.
Reply:Originally Posted by jdh239Not sure what you mean by orange peel it.... sounds like drywall texture.I don't have a forge or lathe.  I have a welder, grinder, plasma cutter, small press brake, chop saw, sander, and a few other little things.
Reply:I'd go with SWells idea, solid bar and taper the bar....Mike
Reply:Do you need one of these, or 100?
Reply:Originally Posted by SWellsWeld a few inches of solid bar into the end and grind her down.
Reply:Originally Posted by SWellsWeld a few inches of solid bar into the end and grind her down.
Reply:Is it ornamental or does it need to be structural. They have cool spikes already made. Kings Architectural, has some spikes that you could use as is, or perhaps cut off just what you need. That stuff is priced right too. Some of it is cast steel, some cast iron, some of their stuff is forged steel. Like this spike. http://www.kingmetals.com/default.as...mcode=13-121-4If you use that spear end, for the small pipe, you could just heat the end of the larger pipe just a bit, and hammer it down to 1 9/32" O.D., and then just weld on the same spike. They are a $1.89 a piece for solid forged steel. You can turn down the diameter of a steel pipe a half inch or nine sixteenths of an inch with a claw hammer and anvil or even a vise, in about 60 second max. You might need an oxygen and acetylene torch though. Just fire it up till it is easy to work with. You can also cut your own cone, and probably use the press break/brake to roll most of the cone. Or roll a frustum and then add or build up weld to close the point. That is probably what I would do. Thin metal is nicer then thick. I would not try it with thicker then 16 gauge on a press break.  At the piers they use steel pilings and the seagulls **** or defecate on the pilings. So they cut out pie slices and beat the giant pipe into a point. You can see the contours but it works fine for that application. And looks like it was designed that way. They look like exhaust header manifolds where the headers meet the single pipe. But instead of going to a single pipe, they go to a point.        Sincerely,             William McCormick
Reply:You could also roll a tiny little frustum to connect the 1.5 pipe to the solid forged spear as well. That would be childs play with a plasma cutter. It would look like a slightly bent flat bar with the thickness of the tube wall. When you roll it, it would make a funnel shape to connect the pipe to the spear. That is easy to do. Then you would not need to heat and beat.       Sincerely,             William McCormick