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well today was the first time i really got to sit down and do some welding. It definitely was fun, but damn can it be frustrating!here is what i had to work with.-lincoln v300 pro-scratch start-no pedal-3/32 "red" tungsten-3/32 308l filler rod-miller performace series hood-15cfm argon-1/8 in. stainless (304)I started out with a quick cleaning of acetone. (yes i was careful not to let it touch my skin and did it outside) Next i hit it with a stainless steel brush. I then ground a tungsten with a new ryobi 6inch grinder i picked up yesterday. I will let the pictures tell the rest and then give some thoughts on what i think i did wrong.the machinethe tungsten point i tried to use todaythe work clamptorch setuphere is the best i could come up with after a couple hours. Apparently i accidently deleted the ones of before the wire brush. if you want you can kinda see them in the pic with the ground clampthe 70 amp one is not wire brushed, and is similar to what the rest look like. thanks for looking and any advice is appreciated.
Reply:things i think i did wrong-overhead garage door/ backdoor where open creating a draft-when i contaminated the tunsten at first, i would just regrind it instead of snaping it off and regrinding-used the same wheel that i ground the contaminated tungsten on?
Reply:There is a shielding problem, maybe the draft from door being open. If closing the door does not result in shiny welds with gold and some blue hues, you still have a shielding issue, possibly a leak. To check for a leak, plug off flow at the the torch, pressurize gas to the torch, check every connection including the flow meter itself and the solenoid inside the machine, with a soap bubble solution.Maybe your torch angle is too severe, tungsten stickout too long, or arc length excessive, these can reduce shielding as well.To test your shielding, It is easiest to get good color/shielding on a small, low current, spot weld, on thicker material, without adding filler wire. This cold weld, which is also chilled quickly by the heavier plate, should be perfectly shiny silver like the unwelded steel, if the shielding is good with no leaks. Hot welds on thin material may have adequate shielding right at the weld, but because much of the weld is still red hot and gets exposes to air as you travel forward, it can become quite oxidizedGrinding off the contaminated tungten end is ok, you do not need to break it off.Using same wheel you ground contaminated tungsten on, no problem, that's what your grinder is for. I suppose you could have one wheel (grinder) for coarse removal of dipped tungsten crud, and another finer wheel for the "clean" finish, but that is not needed.
Reply:looks to me like 60A is the sweet spot for that type of metal. i try to get my electrodes a little sharper with tiny bit more slope but that may be a personal preference. were you pushing or pulling? with a scratch start you have to back fill about a 1/4" so you don't get those "dimpels" at the beginning of the weld. it's a little easier with a pedel start. your fillets either didn't have enough amps or you went too fast or both. looks like you used plenty of wire just make sure you start at the top and let the puddle drip down before you move on. if it starts to get away from you STOP let it cool and restart about 1/8" into the previous weld. wind has never been a problem for me. i've tig'ed in air conditioned rooms as well as with a fan blowing right on the work table. turning the gas flow up helps if it's a little windy.
Reply:I like the 70 amp one. What does the back look like?David Real world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:SS is hard to learn on. try MS (mild steel) it is easier to learn on. you are burning too hot for SS. there should be no black on the weld. It should be straw colored. at most it should be purple/blue.try 35-45 amps and see what you getedit; o I just thought I would tell you, if you burn the metal the greyish black color then the SS losses its SS properties and it can later rust.Last edited by ace4059; 07-31-2008 at 02:27 AM.
Reply:^^^thanks for the advice. i have a couple of pieces of mild steel i can learn on. I just went and looked at the back sides of the welds, and the only one where their wasnt any black brittle stuff (is that burnthrough?) was on the 55amp. Looks like 45-50 would be the sweet spot for this metal. appreciate the tips, i will go out and do a little more practicing, and check the gas situation.
Reply:alright, so i know im getting gas flow. i went and set the machine at 50 amps, and did pass with out filler and it looked beautiful. Then i went and tried to do a pass with adding filler, keeping the filler as close to the tungsten as possible and it turned out just like the rest of them, grey? what do i need to change?
Reply:Originally Posted by TQMB5^^^thanks for the advice. i have a couple of pieces of mild steel i can learn on. I just went and looked at the back sides of the welds, and the only one where their wasnt any black brittle stuff (is that burnthrough?) was on the 55amp. Looks like 45-50 would be the sweet spot for this metal. appreciate the tips, i will go out and do a little more practicing, and check the gas situation.
Reply:Originally Posted by TQMB5alright, so i know im getting gas flow. i went and set the machine at 50 amps, and did pass with out filler and it looked beautiful. Then i went and tried to do a pass with adding filler, keeping the filler as close to the tungsten as possible and it turned out just like the rest of them, grey? what do i need to change?
Reply:I tried to edit my post but It said I took to long to do it and the time expired. Here are some pics that I just took. The coupons are SS 2g and 3g welds. These coupon were in my desk and they were for my SS certificate in tig from a welding school back in 2005. I think in pic #1 the one on the left is the 3g but they both look about the same so I am not sure. Left piece was 38 amps and right piece was 45 amps. Notice there is no burnt black nor greyish tint. They rainbow of colors is normal and the welds should have a light to dark straw color. Also see if you can spot the "flair up" on pic 1 on the right coupon. I guess I misses a spot on cleaning the metal. These welds were NOT brushed after the weld. Only before the weld to clean the metal. I would also reccommend wiping down the metal with a solvent like you are doing. These welds were done with an old machine that was a hard rig. No pedal just a on and off switch for the gas. That shows you what type of machine the school had. Now only if the machine had all the features of my machine.BTW,In your wire feeder, is that a roll of metalcore wire or dual-shield.LaterRyan Attached Images
Reply:Skip the laying beads. Weld wetal together. For a while. Play with the welder. It is an art form not recognized as such. For real sport make a plate by laying one bead on top of another till you get a 6x6 in square. Time under the hood and observe what you do should do quite nicely.
Reply:Originally Posted by ace4059BTW,In your wire feeder, is that a roll of metalcore wire or dual-shield.LaterRyan
Reply:Originally Posted by TQMB5alright, so i know im getting gas flow. i went and set the machine at 50 amps, and did pass with out filler and it looked beautiful. Then i went and tried to do a pass with adding filler, keeping the filler as close to the tungsten as possible and it turned out just like the rest of them, grey? what do i need to change?
Reply:Are the edges of your plate sheared or plasma cut?When you start a new bead, are you cutting the tip of your filler metal off?The "grainy" texture on top of the bead is to me still indicating either too much heat input, contamination, or a combination of both.
Reply:the edges taht i was welding are factory, the other ones you are seeing are plasma^^^i also was not cutting the tip off, i did that today and it definitely helped. here i my next question: how do i keep my filler rod from melting? i dont want to take it out of the gas but it keeps frickin forming a ball of the end of the filler and makes it impossible to lay nice beads when a big drop of fill falls whenever it pleases. what do i need to do different?
Reply:You need to grind or clean those factory edges too. Believe me, it's a night and day difference.To keep the filler rod from melting, you need to either angle the torch more upright, or keep the filler further away. Remember, it doesn't have to sit directly under the cup to get shielding, the argon will spread out some and hover in that area. Stainless doesn't ball up too easily, so odds are you're keeping it way too close.
Reply:Is it just me, or do I notice that gas bottle is unrestrained? You think you have gas flow problems now.....wait until that thing falls over.....BrentLincoln 3200HD MIGLincoln AC/DC 225 Stick
Reply:500 dollar Ohsa fine right there.
Reply:Originally Posted by Brent13Is it just me, or do I notice that gas bottle is unrestrained? You think you have gas flow problems now.....wait until that thing falls over.....Brent
Reply:Looks like a home shop (garage) to me. If that is the case, OSHA rules don't apply to the hobbiest unless they are doing production runs.Still for safeties sake, once you learn the correct way to TIG (or just do it with a MIG now) build yourself a cart that secures that bottle. That is the safest way to solve the problem.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:good lord you guys freak out about that stuff huh? and yes osha will not be in my garage anytime soon. i have only had it for 3 weeks and have been two busy to make a cart yet. now back to helping me weld...
Reply:For the welds, you "got it", just burn up some more filler. Please tie the tank up. They do get knocked over and the hose gets accidentally tugged on. If you are lucky it will only break the regulator. Those tanks can do a lot of damage if the neck gets broken off.David Real world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:^^^ thanks, will do
Reply:good lord you guys freak out about that stuff huh? and yes osha will not be in my garage anytime soon. i have only had it for 3 weeks and have been two busy to make a cart yet.Originally Posted by TQMB5good lord you guys freak out about that stuff huh? and yes osha will not be in my garage anytime soon. i have only had it for 3 weeks and have been two busy to make a cart yet. now back to helping me weld...
Reply:mythbusters did this as well. straight thru a concrete wall! it didnt shatter the wall either, it was a CLEAN cut.
Reply:TQMB5:You already got the point but this bears repeating:and the hose gets accidentally tugged on.This 'tug' is from the TOP of the bottle, where it gets the most leverage. As shown in your photo.9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Originally Posted by Craig in DenverTQMB5:and the hose gets accidentally tugged on.
Reply:alrgiht thanks guys, like i said, i am always extremely carefull and use about 12ft of a 25 foot torch so it wont get tugged on hopefully. I am picking op a chop saw tomorrow and have some car projects but i thinkin i will make a car first just so i dont have to worry about the tank. Im always for safety i wasnt trying to disrespect you "old timers" who have seen accidents first hand. i hopefully will get some more pictures up soon. thanks
Reply:TQMB5 On the TV program mythbusters, they knocked the valve off a tank and it shot thrugh a concrete block wall. Many years ago a truck full of oxygen tanks was parked in the hot sun behind a hospital in my hometown (Hempstead, NY). One of the tanks blew and it pushed the truck through the back wall of the hospital. Chain the tank! - DrBob |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:52:38