e6010 electrode sticking

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sorry if this has been posted before, but im having a problem with my 6010 electrode freezing everytime i try to do roots on butt welds, no matter if its vertical, horizontal, or flat. I can strike an arc just fine, but when i get going sooner or later when i push my electrode through the gap the arc stopps and it freezes. any tips or answers? sorry if this is a little confusing im not a gud tiper. Thanks.
Reply:oh more info, sorry. i am using either 1/16" or 3/32 rod and welding on flat strips of mild steel, i have about a 16th inch gap between the peices. sorry.
Reply:what amperage are you running, and what brand of rod?I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:I run it about 50-60 amps, 57 usually, and im not sure about the brand. i didnt realize there were brands of electrodes which is probly stupid, but my school supplies them, sorry.
Reply:Oh and while we are on this subject could you guys tell me what im looking for in a good root weld with 6010? thanks a bunch.
Reply:Not wanting to come across as a wiseazz but why wouldn't you just ask your instructor?  After all you are in a welding class aren't you?Gordie -- "I believe you understand what you think I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant."
Reply:ok you need to jump in a vert weld down then up  to fill with 1/8 bout 90 amps then 110 to 120 horz and put some pressure on the rod and you should have a gap the size of  your bare size of your electrod
Reply:and on the root  question you should see some good wagon tracks on the sides of the weld no slag pockets should just have brush the slag off with a brush or bare end of electrode remember with 6010 or 5p hotter the better so turn that machine up experament
Reply:and you dont push a root you pull  always push a cover not a root
Reply:Turn it up, the stub should be something like 2" that your throwing out, even a little more doesn't hurt.I'd rather be hunting........USE ENOUGH HEAT.......Drifting around Aussie welding more pipe up, for something different.....wanting to get home.
Reply:I agree, sounds like not enough amps or holding too tight an arc.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Here is my humble opinion for what it is worth.The number designation of the  rod tells you that this particular rod has a tensile strength of 60,000 lbs as welded. It has a cellulose coating which means that it is a fast freeze electrode with a digging arc and it should be run on dcrp and can be used in all positions. The cause of the sticking could be either your amperage setting is to low, your rate of travel is too slow, the rod angle is not correct. Lets address each of these situations separately.To Set the machine get a scrap piece of metal and start an arc by scratching as you would to strike a match. once you have an arc established drag the rod with an inclination of about 15 to 20 degrees. the arc should not snuff out for about 1 to 2 inches and the coating should curl on both sides of the electrode. Don't forget to make sure the cables are connected to the machine correctly.There are two ways to weld with this rod. you can drag it, in which case make sure that the fit up is consistent. A wider or narrower gap or a thinner or thicker land will cause either a hole or insufficient penetration respectively. Turn up the machine from the previous explanation about 5 to 10 amps. You need to do this because you need to have extra amperage when using a short arc. The rod angle will need to be more perpendicular to the material as well. Now it is a matter on practice to get the root to be consistent. it should look a little wider than the original gap an fairly smooth (not as smooth as a slow freeze rod though).The other way is to whip the electrode in the direction of travel, maintaining a key hole as you progress. At the start you will need to build a bridge by moving the electrode from side to side until the two pieces of metals are joined. Once the bridge is formed move the rod along the joint about 1 rod diameter. As you move the metal should melt and a hole should develop. Move the rod back down on top of the weldment until the rod is positioned about half way on the weldment. Pause and you should see the key hole close. repeat this sequence until the joint is complete. Depending on the thickness of the material, gap and land you will need to adjust the rate of travel to accommodate the heat input into the parent metal. The root should have a consistent ripple and will again be a little wider than the gap. Again it is a matter of practice to obtain a consistent even root.Remember that the less buildup you have the better but it MUST be greater than the material. B31.3 give tolerances for weld reinforcement. if you can get a copy of this from some one and read it you will gain valuable knowledge.Hope this helpsLast edited by whipitweld; 03-23-2009 at 01:32 PM.Reason: spelling add infoWhipit
Reply:Originally Posted by NiteskyNot wanting to come across as a wiseazz but why wouldn't you just ask your instructor?  After all you are in a welding class aren't you?
Reply:hey, thanks everyone for your replies, i really appreciate them. Especially thank you Whipit, that was very thorough. thanks again.
Reply:Originally Posted by wirehuntTurn it up, the stub should be something like 2" that your throwing out, even a little more doesn't hurt.
Reply:if the machine has an "arc control" knob, turn it up
Reply:Originally Posted by whipitweldThe number designation of the  rod tells you that this particular rod has a tensile strength of 60,000 lbs as welded.
Reply:Mitch, the stub is the remainder of the welding rod that's left when you've finished with the rodI'd rather be hunting........USE ENOUGH HEAT.......Drifting around Aussie welding more pipe up, for something different.....wanting to get home.
Reply:Originally Posted by wirehuntMitch, the stub is the remainder of the welding rod that's left when you've finished with the rod
Reply:No need to, if you don't know you ask, that's the learning thing that we all had to go through.I'd rather be hunting........USE ENOUGH HEAT.......Drifting around Aussie welding more pipe up, for something different.....wanting to get home.
Reply:I wish I had some pics handy of this but I don't so blah... I hope words will help then.1. If you're taking your plates together on rootside of the joint make sure to push the rod through the root to form a keyhole at the end of your tack2. flip the plate back over and hit where you tacked with a thin wheel grinder.  Grind down into the where the keyhole starts till it's really thin.  This is called feathering the tacks if you're welding a pipe.3. now you're ready to weld. Strike the arc with the 6010 back on your tack say an inch to 3/4 of an inch(the distance varies depending on the space you have).  after you have it lit pull back into a wicked humming long arc and wiggle it back and forth.  Doing this will cause spatter to spray everywhere but will keep the buildup of unwanted metal piles to minimum.4. bring it back to a normal arc length and start working it toward the keyhole with a slight whip and pause.  steps 3 and 4 are preheating the metal and getting the rod "hot" as well.  You can tell if it's ready by the sound as you approach the keyhole. if it's "sputtering" don't even try to push it in there, but if you hear a good cracklin hiss then you're ready to weld.5. As you approach the keyhole starting pushing the rod in, if you feathered  into it good it should give way before you actually get to keyhole.  Hold the rod there for a second so you tie in good to the tack then take.  Remember it's a slow process, go slow and don't do big huge whip and pauses, maybe one electrode diameter forward, half back.  alot of times if your machine is set good you won't have to whip it hardly at all...Just a steady drag  90% of all the sparks and smoke should be going out the backside, the root side.  if you see alot of sparks coming out the face side it's getting ready to Fork up.  Keep your rod pushed into the joint!!!also, make sure your lands are equal for the two pieces(You can weld up to 3/16 plate without joint prep if you turn your amps up enough and push it in deep), and it's tacked up good and even.   For an 1/8 6010 you should be able to put an 1/8" spacer through the root before you tack it, and then after it's tacked it won't hardly go through.  double check your amps, hotter the better, also the arc force.  Getting to know what your machine puts out(not always the same as what the dial is set to) is crucial.Pardon any typos or bad grammar, and hope I was able to help! Miller Maxstar S modelVictor Journeyman torchB&D 4 1/2 and 7" Grinders"You want me to weld that?  I thought you said I wasn't safe with a Caulking Gun?"