Repairing boat trailer

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I bought a 17' boat today and the 1989 trailer has seen better days.  I will post pictures of the current "repair" which entails some galvanized pipe, some 5/4 pressure treated decking and some lashing!  Holy chit, I had to tow this mess home 80 miles today, but I pumped the bearings full of grease and pumped the tires full of air and it towed like a dream. What has happened is the last 12" -24" of galvanized trailer tube has rusted out.  The tube is around 3" x 4".  This tube supports a beam across the back that supports the transom of the boat.  What I am planning on doing is cutting back to solid metal and piecing in a patch of similar tube.  I know a butt weld would not be strong enough, but I am not sure how to best design this joint.  Should I weld plates on either side of the joint or top and bottom?  I plan on stick welding this with 6011 or 6013 1/8" rod since I have had enough experience to feel comfortable making a road-worthy repair.  Plus, failure of this section of the trailer would not lead to a catastrophic failure of the trailer.Chris
Reply:Air raid sirens wailing, **WARNING, WARNING** Incoming used boat trailer, incoming used boat trailer, prepare for emergency surgery, notify lws, lst, lts, lbs, and all essential personnel, this is not a drill! Attached ImagesCity of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Here are some pictures of the "repair"  I have been here on and off for a few years, is it taboo to talk about repairing trailers here?  I may call the trailer MFG and see if I can buy replacement parts although they are more money than a whole used trailer.This repair seems very straightforward, what am I missing?Chris
Reply:Really!?!?
Reply:The "structural string" makes a nice touch. Miller Auto Invision 456 + S-62 wire feederC6240B1 Gap bed lathe16 ft3 air compressor16 speed pedestal drillHafco BS-912 Bandsaw
Reply:Originally Posted by Ed.The "structural string" makes a nice touch.
Reply:Originally Posted by *chris*I actually laughed at the seller when I saw that.  Heck, he could have thrown in a few bolts.So guys, are we just going to make fun of my predicament, or am I going to get any advice?I am thinking about buying some 3x3 tube in the same gauge and welding a fishplate on either side.  Does this seems like the right approach?  I will cut the tube at a 45 degree angle to eliminate a vertical seam.Chris
Reply:"but seriously folks"When you cut back the tube, you will need to cut it back until you hit solid steel.  Hopefully you will reach that before you reach the spring mount.  If the tube is still rotten there I suggest you replace the entire rail from end to end.  The tube may look good on the outside, but if they didn't get galvanizing coverage inside the tube it may be rotten all the way.Be sure to grind all the galvanizing off at least 1" back from the joint, those fumes are definitely not good to breathe and make it harder to weld.  I suggest you use a smoke eater if you have one or at least a fan to blow the fumes away from you.  Even if you remove 100% of the galv. on the outside of the tube, the inside will/should be coated.  If you can remove some of the inside galv. with a die grinder of even a file, it will be worth it.A square butt joint would be fine but I also like the idea of the 45 deg.cut you mentioned, in woodworking this is called a scarf joint.  You could also weld a 1/4" flat plate to cap the end of the tube, leave the plate about 1/4" proud all around and then weld the replacement tube to the other side, might be easier than trying to do a straight but joint.I'd like to hear how it turns out."The reason we are here is that we are not all there"SA 200Idealarc TM 300 300MM 200MM 25130a SpoolgunPrecision Tig 375Invertec V350 ProSC-32 CS 12 Wire FeederOxweld/Purox O/AArcAirHypertherm Powermax 85LN25
Reply:I'm with Rojodiablo. Strip all the good stuff off, axle, lights, etc. Get new steel (C channel) and fab new frame. It will take you less time in the end and you will have a much better trailer in the end. By the time you cut and splice that tubing it will take as much and you will still have a patch job. Then painting will also be a hassle.If you build the new frame you could take it and have it powder coated. A lot of problems will go bye bye.......Keep the pixs coming.Glenn.Sign on East Texas payphone: Calls to God 40 cents......it's a local call...
Reply:I agree with at the least, replacing the whole rail front to back.  That tube is way too far gone to be good over it's whole length just doing a repair at the tail of it.  The other side is probly just as bad inside.  Tube is about the worst metal shape one can use on a boat trailer, too much rusting inside the tube.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Chris, I am laughing with you, not at you.  I have seen one or two crunchy boat trailers in my line of work... Attached ImagesCity of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Originally Posted by *chris*I actually laughed at the seller when I saw that.  Heck, he could have thrown in a few bolts.So guys, are we just going to make fun of my predicament, or am I going to get any advice?Chris
Reply:Originally Posted by norite"but seriously folks"When you cut back the tube, you will need to cut it back until you hit solid steel.
Reply:Originally Posted by *chris*I am going to get the boat up on cinder blocks and get the trailer out of there and see what I am dealing with.  I will call the trailer MFG tuesday to see if I can buy replacement tubes.  I could fab entire new rails but at that point I may just replace the trailer. I agree with you guys, the tube is probably rusted all the way forward.  At a minimum I may repair it to have something to drag the boat around the yard on.  I would fab an entire new trailer but since I will use this in saltwater I really need it to be galvanized.Chris
Reply:Originally Posted by Ed.Sorry Chris, I couldn't resist before, but seriously now, I would go with what others has said. Ditch the frame, keep the running gear if it is still OK, and build another frame. By the time Galv. RHS has corroded that far, then the rest of it will also be badly weakened by electrolysis even if it doesn't show yet. You don't want to be driving down the highway and hit a pothole, and have the frame crack in half and damaging your boat when it spreads apart all over the highway.As it's only a 17 ft boat, there is probably about $100-200 of steel in the frame. The time and effort taken to cut out the corroded pieces, prepping the new welds joints, welding and reinforcing them would almost be the same as building a new frame. Then what you have got is a new steel back end with a potentially risky front end. Is it worth trying to save that small amount of money and time? Build it once and it's good for a great many years. Fix it up and it's only a matter of time before you have to do more work on it or replace it because it broke.  Beside building a a trailer frame in considerably easier and cheaper than trying to repair a boat that departs from a trailer on a highway, I know this because I have done quite a few such repairs on boats in my time as a boat repairer. Just my 2 cents worth.
Reply:Originally Posted by Ed.Hi Chris, You can just get Galv. RHS or C channel, remove the Galv. just where the joints will be welded by grinding or sanding, and after you finish welding, paint touchup the welded areas with Cold Galv. Epoxy paint,  probably good for a decade or so before another paint touch up required. I have done quite a few trailers that way. If you wash off  the salt after every boating use you won't have any dramas.Ed.
Reply:Originally Posted by *chris*I am going to get the boat up on cinder blocks and get the trailer out of there and see what I am dealing with.  I will call the trailer MFG tuesday to see if I can buy replacement tubes.  I could fab entire new rails but at that point I may just replace the trailer. I agree with you guys, the tube is probably rusted all the way forward.  At a minimum I may repair it to have something to drag the boat around the yard on.  I would fab an entire new trailer but since I will use this in saltwater I really need it to be galvanized.Chris
Reply:Originally Posted by *chris*Ed, you know I am not too worried since the leaf springs and the axle hold the trailer together from splitting apart.  I do agree completely with you, the last thing I need is a catastrophic failure while towing the boat.  I need to get the boat off of the trailer and inspect it as the next step.You don't think the last 3 feet are shot simply because they are repeatedly dunked in the saltwater?  The front half looks ok.Chris
Reply:I gotta agree on 'C' channel being the smart choice if you replace the entire trailer.City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Hot-dip galvanized c-channel would be best for a new frame.  You can weld it with fluxcore wire without grinding off the galvi, then cover with cold galvi spray when done.  Wear a respirator mask, work outside, keep head out of smoke plume, weld on up wind side of weld, all is well.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Yikes...Is that a 'Bunk' trailer?  I would recommend the 'same' when talking about 'stripping'' the 'entire' trailer.  Honestly, the 'BUNKS' might be one of my primary concerns.  If the Main tube fails, then the Bunk will come crashing down and will no doubt come apart as well...  If the Bunk fails, the rusty main tube will likely fail from the weight of the boat falling on it.  Either way, you're 'Hooped'.I'd strip it, replace any rusty U-BOLTS, Hangers, etc and go from there...  If you end up having to replace Axel, Hubs or the like, then I'd likely buy a 'good' used trailer instead.  A single boating trip that leaves you and your boat 'stranded' on the side of the highway is going to cost you a LOT more in the 'short term' than building a new frame, or buying a decent USED trailer.Just my .02Cheers,Miller Diversion 165120 amp Buzz BoxVictor Oxy/Ace Oxy/LPGSmith "Little" Oxy/LPGHypertherm Powermax 30Lot's of Misc. tools n' crap....
Reply:Originally Posted by jmanYikes...Is that a 'Bunk' trailer?  I would recommend the 'same' when talking about 'stripping'' the 'entire' trailer.  Honestly, the 'BUNKS' might be one of my primary concerns.  If the Main tube fails, then the Bunk will come crashing down and will no doubt come apart as well...  If the Bunk fails, the rusty main tube will likely fail from the weight of the boat falling on it.  Either way, you're 'Hooped'.I'd strip it, replace any rusty U-BOLTS, Hangers, etc and go from there...  If you end up having to replace Axel, Hubs or the like, then I'd likely buy a 'good' used trailer instead.  A single boating trip that leaves you and your boat 'stranded' on the side of the highway is going to cost you a LOT more in the 'short term' than building a new frame, or buying a decent USED trailer.Just my .02Cheers,