Rubber Contact wheel alternatives

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Inspired by what I have seen here for belt sander projects (thank you '69 Vernon) I have started looking into making my own since I have 2 or 3 1/3 to 1 hp electric motors laying around my garage.  However, when I dove into the MSC and Travers catalogs for rubber contact wheels....HOLY $$$!!!I am not spending $160-200+ for a wheel with rubber on it!  So, seeing how that I am in a state of being permanently short of $, what have others here on this forum used for wheels in their belt sanders?  I have access to a machine shop so if there are plans for said wheels, please post away!Looking for my next cold one,NearBeer
Reply:What size? Can you make do with a couple of good sized urethane wheels? You might have to machine the faces flat to work.The ones on mine came complete with a free belt sander attached to them..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Warning: I have not done this, but my source assures me it will work.Ok, here's what you do.  Machine the necessary wheel in steel to the proper width and diameter minus 1/4".  A local rubber supply house (mine is Baker-Bohnert Rubber Company www.baker-bohnert.com) and get enough 1/8" EPDM rubber sheet to cover the rolls.  You will need two rectangles of the following size:Width = width of wheelLength = pi x finished OD of wheel + 0.707 x width of wheelThis will allow you to cut the ends at 45 degrees so the joint is not straight.  Be sure to check the fit of the rubber to the wheel.  Use contact cement to adhere the rubber to the wheel.  The key to working with contact cement and rubber is to let it dry completely on both surfaces before trying to stick them together.If you need pictures, I may be able to conjure something up...I hope this helps,Fegenbush
Reply:Fegenbush:Many thanks for the info; I'll take you up on your pictures once you get them./R,NearBeer
Reply:I to have been wanting to build a belt sander and some day I will get around to it!Grizzly sells a 10" contact wheel for 65 bucks.  This is the link, it doesn't show a picture of it but it has the description, http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-A...or-G1015/G9242I to am cheap and don't have a lot of money so was looking at all sorts of ideas to try and get some cheap wheels from mcmaster or somewhere.  This wheel was mentioned by someone else.  I don't think I could put much together for cheaper than 65 bucks so at some point think I'm just going to buy this wheel.Hope this helps
Reply:I have a couple of ideas that might be worth exploring?  what about taking a section of 3" or 4" sched 80 aluminum pipe, say a 6" long pc.  Weld an end plate in both ends - drill that to a decent shaft size and true up the pipe surface as the main roller?than use cable shrink wrap in 3" or 4" size, heat shrink tubing this size is used to cover cable splices and sometimes used on pipe as joint on plastic coated pipe that will be buried.I don't know if the surface of the shrink would become a perfect or uniform to 0.003" surface but since the belt is going to have some play and flex, this 'rubber' surface which could be put on and taken off if it worn out would make a pretty fast surface to in part torque to the belt?buying short lengths of extrusion (pipe) can be done at Online metals or another retail shop if ordering that material from the local supplier is not available?Just a thought about a way to make a sander roller from parts.Cheers,Kevin Morin
Reply:Those wheels take a lot of abuse, and even the $150 ones wear out once the rubber starts to separate.  Id just fork over and buy on, if you look around im sure you can find a deal on a reasonable priced one.That cost probably includes the bearing assembly inside the wheel as well.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Cut out a bunch of big rubber washers and compress them on a shaft (like those knives with the stacked leather washer handles).  Old conveyor belt could be a rubber source and a waterjet cutting place could probably cut them out nice and consistent.  You'll want the shaft to be an interference fit with the ID of the washers and maybe lightly knurled.  I'd imagine some glue in between each washer wouldn't hurt either.
Reply:I know this may sound like a typical Canadian solution......and that's because it is!!!Stacked hockey pucks.200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.