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So I am trying to get a handle on ways to cut both square tubing and flat steel. I am setting up a small resto shop and need the necessities. I already have a Dewalt Porta-band with the Swag table. Very nice stuff. Problem is, you cant get decent square cuts on square tubing with it, nor can you make decent 45's. Especially with 20 foot sticks. So, I have an older Milwaukee woodworking chop saw with a 10 inch metal cutting 'blade' (rock grinder wheel) that lights up the whole shop with sparks and I go thru about 2 blades for every 5 cuts in 1-1/2 by 3/16s square tube. There has to be a better way?
Reply:look up cold cut sawMiller Pro 300 SS w/ cat Miller Bobcat 250Miller Diversion 165 Miller 211Miller Xtreme 375Miller 12vsMiller Dynasty 200 DX Miller Passport Plus w/ Spool GunMiller 30a spoolmaticLincoln AC225 Buzz Box VictorMathey Dearman - H&M
Reply:Originally Posted by Deve... There has to be a better way?
Reply:i would look at better chop saw wheels. I use abrasive saw for all my tube cutting. I make 10 cuts per gate and get multiple gates per wheel. I buy norton wheels usually the ones for the hand held gas saws. They are thicker but hold up better. If money wasn't an option I would buy a swivel head band saw but it would not fit in my current shop.Millermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
Reply:I am pretty sure your woodworking saw is too fast for the abrasive blade and that may be why the blades don't last. Generally the complaint about abrasive cutoff saws is the quality of the cut and the mess. A properly setup metal bandsaw is usually regarded as the best tool for the job.The cold cut saws are also regarded well but again, you cannot just put a cold cut blade on a woodworking saw, it's way too fast.Ken
Reply:You seem to like Milwaukee tools. We have one of these and have been very satisfied with the speed and accuracy. Make sure you clamp the stock and wear hearing protection though.http://www.cpomilwaukee.com/milwauke...l-cutting-sawsCharleyMiller MM252Miller Bobcat 225NTMiller DialArc HF / DIY Cooler2 Victor O/A TorchsetsMilwaukee 8" Metal SawMilwaukee Dry Cut "Chop" Saw 5 Ton Wallace Gantry Various Grinders, Benders, etc.
Reply:With the dry cut saw, how long to blades last on 1-1/2 inch (3/16 walls) square tubing? Do you sharpen the blades after they get dull or all they toast? What are good blades to purchase without breaking the bank?thanks
Reply:With the dry cut saw, how long to blades last on 1-1/2 inch (3/16 walls) square tubing
Reply:My JET equipment has done OK for the price I paid. You might try and find one like this:http://www.jettools.com/us/manufactu...product=273669Lincoln SA200's... at least 15 - 20. They come and go. Growing partial to the "Short Hoods" in my old age. Last count on Short Hoods was 13 in possession.
Reply:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=60147Backed my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me What would SATAN do ?? Miller Trailblazer 302 AirPakMiller Digital Elite Optrel Welding HatArcair K4000Suitcase 12RC / 12 VSHypertherm PM-45Rage 3 sawRusty old Truck
Reply:I have the Milwaukee 6190-20. I like it a lot. I use Freud Diablo blades, which you can get for $40 a pop. I did hundreds of cuts on my first job (a picket fence for my yard), as well as many more cuts for other jobs. The first blade lasted until very recently. I know other guys get the blades sharpened and re-use them, but I don't know if that's cost-effective with $40 blades.That said, another user here had terrible luck with the Freud blades. So maybe there was a bad batch of blades out there, or maybe I'm hitting my steel with just the right pressure. Or maybe they changed their manufacturing process. Anything is possible.I've hears so-so things about the Milwaukee blades. But that's second-hand information. I got my saw without a blade, and only paid $320 for it.Freud also makes 7-1/4" blades that you can run at normal RPMs in a circular saw. For cutting sheet stock, I've been very happy with them. They don't last as long as the low-RPM blades, in my opinion. I guess that shouldn't come as a surprise, since heat is the thing that kills them. I can't imagine ever going back to abrasive blades. Too much smoke and dust. The dry cut saws' leave steel pieces that are like coarse sawdust. Very easy to clean up.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Thanks to all. I have seen the old threads on drycut saws and learned alot already. I just wanted to confirm that it was a sensible way to go since with a few extra blades this purchase will be around $500. I am leaning towards the milwaukee with a few olsen blades all via Amazon. If anyone has any better ideas, I am always happy to get input. Thanks again!
Reply:Been reading the form for some time, first time I have had something to add.Was in Lowes in Loves Park, Il. the first part of the week and they had a Rage2 Evolution 14" Multipurpose chop saw(cold cut) 15 amp no load , 2000 watt 1450 RPM motor, list $299+tax on sale for $215 + tax. Also had a 10" Rage3 sliding miter saw , list $249 + tax on sale for $179.00 + tax . Blades on sale also, 14" $32.00 and 10" $16.00.Looked them over good and may regret not getting one of them, but you can only do so much with the money you have in the bank. This may be something to look into .
Reply:Sounds like a good price as long as it includes the blade!I'm pretty sure that the Evolution blades can be sent back to the factory for sharpening.
Reply:I am leaning towards the milwaukee 6190-20 14" Dry Cut saw. Amazon wants $404 for it and I dont buy these things without a backup blade so another $100 for the blade. From reviews, etc it seems to be the most comfortable and precise to use. I dont like making missteps when purchasing this expensive of an item. I have a Dewalt Porta-Band with the Swag table and it was a GREAT purchase, but when you have to cut 20 foot sticks of 1-1/2 square tubeing with 3/16 walls and the cuts need to be square (45s sometimes too), I really dont see much choice. I'm afraid of Evo from my woodworking experiences, but maybe they have improved.
Reply:I have used my Evolution rage 3 for miter cuts of all kinds on wood and steel 2X2 .250 wall 3X3x3/8 wall i cut mostly .120 wall tubingIt cuts it just fine but it does wear harder on the blades when cutting thicker material but that a duh thing of course it going too going to cut slower than cutting 120 wall alsoThe chop saw needs to have a jig made to start the cut at the corner the rage 3 does notYou slide it out so it starts the cut at the corner and chop down the push the slide back never cutting on the flat surfaceAlso the rage 3 swivels the saw for miter cuts not the material ..big advantageAnd always check your angles with an angle gauge or angle square no saw ever cuts a perfect angle from the factory locks or markingsGo to Harbor Fright get the circular saw blade sharpener to keep them blades sharp and save some money but you will have to send them out if you need the teeth replaced which happens nobody's perfect and maybe that tooth was not soldered properly when made you can buy the carbide teeth and solder them on yourself if you want toBacked my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me What would SATAN do ?? Miller Trailblazer 302 AirPakMiller Digital Elite Optrel Welding HatArcair K4000Suitcase 12RC / 12 VSHypertherm PM-45Rage 3 sawRusty old Truck
Reply:I'd get an abrasive chop saw first. Even a cheap one will be better than your wood saw. The trick to abrasives is to get good wheels. The home depot wheels are okay, but a good flexovit makes a big difference. There are plenty of shops that don't have a dry cut saw, but very few are without an abrasive saw.On the dry cut saws, the 12" Makita is the best saw. If I had not already bought one, when I tried the makita, that's the one I'd have. The vise is much better than the vise on my Milwaukee. I've used both 14" and 12" blades on my saw and the 12" blades seem to cut smoother and last longer.Ian TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:I ended up purchasing the 12" Makita Dry Cut saw. I carefully read the instructions and use a wood block in front of the back fence to offset the blade to make the blade last longer. I am also spraying cooking spray on the work before cutting. I really like this saw! The cut is amazing, the speed is amazing, and all without sparks and dust all over the room! Thanks all for the advice. This group is amazing! |
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