C-stand build.

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Building a C-stand for a photographer's light diffuser.  I got the three legs bent and roughly cut today.I'm always finding uses for zip ties.  Here I use the zip tie around this 1" tubing as a guide.  It makes marking the tubing with a scribe or magic marker a lot easierin to the bender.  But since there are going to be two bends, I'll have to make sure both of those bends are on the same plane....  which is what this tool is for.  It holds a digital level.bending 45 degrees.two bends later, it looks like this (excuse the clutter):rinse, repeat, rinse and repeatThe tubing on top of the final picture will be cut into three sections, and each leg will be notched and welded to one of the sections... but thats tomorrow.Last edited by oxy moron; 10-18-2010 at 03:35 AM.
Reply:here's some of the designs i looked before i made the legshttp://www.georgefox.edu/academics/u..._images/14.jpghttp://www.cinemagadgets.com/images/CS18.jpghttp://www.picturehire.com/images/C-Stand%28a%29.jpg
Reply:Looking good, I especially like the tool for mantaining the same plane. So simple, yet someone had to think of it. Thanks for posting.
Reply:Originally Posted by trapperjohnLooking good, I especially like the tool for mantaining the same plane. So simple, yet someone had to think of it. Thanks for posting.
Reply:Thanks for posting - great pics.  That tool for ensuring bends are in the same plane is great - something I have wondered about for a while.  Thanks for the tip.Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:Originally Posted by ZTFabYa...great tool John.
Reply:here's a close up shot of the tool Attached Images
Reply:in actionor you can use one of these (I just found out that these Starrett V blocks are $200!  I got a pair of them in a "mystery box of tools" along with a bunch of other starrett, mitsutoyo instruments for $50):Last edited by oxy moron; 10-19-2010 at 03:15 AM.
Reply:never had a "photographer" follow me around before, you all know how tubes are notched.. but here are some of his pictures for you to enjoy anyway.anyway, on to more pics of the build:notching the tube on my drill/mill.  I made the V-block out of 2"x2" hard rolled.  made a matched pair.These were shot with my D-40 (consumer level DSLR).  He didn't bring his own set up (D-700 and a D-90)the three outer rings, drilled hole for tapping after its all welded up.I'm a pretty nice looking guy, once i put on the welding helmet.here they are all done, in the collapsed position.in the open positionTomorrow, we'll clean up some 1.5" round tubing (little surface rust) and make the upper bracket to mount his light diffuser.
Reply:Nice build Oxy, I learned a lot... the level is a keen idea, I have been wodering how zactlee to keep the pipe level on the same plane as I bent it multiple times.  enjoyLast edited by PapaLion; 10-19-2010 at 07:07 AM.Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:What are your plans on a finish for the metal? Plating or powdercoating maybe?ChrisLincoln Pro Mig 180TMiller Spectrum 375
Reply:Looks great man!
Reply:I have used a bullet level when I first started out, but I soon included a bulls eye bubble level for this very thing.  I didn't have a bullet level handy and had a bulls eye in my box.  I pulled it out and BAM  it worked great.  It became the most borrowed level when we had to bend something and keep it in plane.
Reply:ended up building two, one for camera gear, and one to mount a roller on top to hold up tubing for when i use my bandsaw. Attached Images
Reply:Are you making them a fixed height or are you making risers?Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:What is the brand of the bender you are using?  Do you like it?Is there another way to cut the fishmouth without a mill?  Is a drill press and vice good enough?
Reply:Originally Posted by engineer1984What is the brand of the bender you are using?  Do you like it?Is there another way to cut the fishmouth without a mill?  Is a drill press and vice good enough?
Reply:@Broccoli, they're not fixed height.  one of them is for a diffuser (the diffuser is partially inspired by you, no pics yet, as it's actually cobbled together by my brother), the other is gonna have a roller on it to help feed stock on my bandsaw, and just general purpose for around the garage.  the main pole on the diffuser one is .065 walled, since the diffuser is not heavy.  The one for the garage is .125 walled, and the legs are also thicker walled.  But on the outside, both look identical.  I'm in the process of trying to figure out how to make the risers, and there are several designs that i'm looking at: bicycle seat post collar (at 1.5" or 38.1mm, it might be difficult to find).  pinch collar (same design as how the legs clamp on the main pole), all threads (considering this one for the garage one)...  still looking.@engineer, like ZTFab said, it's a JD2 Model bender, no hydraulic.  all manual bend (god knows i need the exercise between puffs).  It's a fairly simple "machine" that does only one thing, but it does that one thing very well, and quite efficiently.  Once the bender is assembled and lined up, the learning curve isn't bad at all.you don't need a mill to cut the fish-mouth.  I used a mill/drill because i dont have a drill press.  If your drill press can get below 1000 rpm mark, then it should be fine for making 90 degree notches with a bi-metal hole saw.  you can get notchers that mounts onto your drill press, but for $2xx bucks, you can get a notcher to use with your corded/cordless drill, its worth it if you need do a lot of notching.  I even heard of people using their 2" belt sander to notch tubes.  there are many ways to get that fish-mouth, I've only used my mill (90 degree notch) and ZTFab's Cadillac hole saw notcher.hey, paul, i made the 1/2 spacer (out of two 1/4 pieces) now the pins go all the way through.Last edited by oxy moron; 10-27-2010 at 11:11 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by oxy moronhehe, leave it up to the Chi-com to rip off an idea and not give any credit that tool, i believe is called "plane of bend" bracket.  I ripped off the idea from ZTFAB.  He's got one that's way better designed (which i will rip off too, as soon as i get some all-thread).  Mine is simpler, little bit more awkward, more elementary in design, but functionally, they both do the same thing.  Zero-out the plane, bend, move the tubing, re-zero to the same plane, then make second bend.
Reply:I went to a camera shop last night to ask about these to see what the customers complained about and to see how they were designed.  Anyway, I fell asleep thinking about designing my own.  For holding the telescoping shafts, I was thinking about the following:  fish mouth a solid bar to fit the outside of the inner telescoping bar.  The drill and tap this.  Now thread in a T-handle or similar that is held in place so that when you turned CCW, the solid bar would tighten against the inner bar.  This would work better than simply tightening a bolt against it.  It would be easier to make than a collet design (I think?).The one at the store had o-rings in between the telescoping parts to keep them from hitting too hard.  Hot lamps will break when they hit hard otherwise.  The production versions also have cams in the legs so the user doesn't have to worry about leg location, the legs just kind of "pop" into place.  They also have a turned piece on top that is used to fit standard equipment.  It looks like these aren't necessarily universal, so maybe if you made a couple different pieces that screwed to the top piece (or inner most rod) you could charge more and offer more.  Also, maybe putting a handle on the outer tube, to help carry it??  Just some thoughts / observations.  I want to make one for the local camera shop and see if I can't sell a few.
Reply:Originally Posted by geezerThanks for posting.  Question:  I am assuming the T-Bolt which secures the tool to the workpiece and the flat plate that supports the level are at right angles as much as possible but a little wiggle room would work.  Does that make sense???
Reply:For a Home Brew Riser Stop- just weld up a nut on the Outer Tube and use a T-handle Bolt.It will end up marking/dinging the Tube but it is the cheapest.The Real C-Stand uses a cast Aluminum collar that holds a Brake Shoe of sorts that the T-Handle Bolt presses against to hold the Riser at the desired height- this eliminates the Dings.Don't paint them black iffin' they will be in the Sun- they'll get so hot you won't be able to touch themEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:@engineer  the legs are supposed to be freely height adjustable to accommodate various terrains.  It's really not cost effective to make these to sell.  if you're a really fast builder, it will probably take about 30 minutes to bend, 10 minutes to notch, 20 minutes to weld, 10 minutes to tap, another 10 minutes to cut/trim.  that's if you have all the tools and jigs set up already.  plus about $20-$40 in materials... that's without any risers.  the store bought ones are about $120 on up.  compare that to over 1.5 hour of work (under best conditions) plus $5 in consumables and end up with only the bottom section.  in my case, it's a labor of love, quest for knowledge/experience and spending time with my brother, so, that's how i justify it.@ Broccoli.. I will take your advice on not painting the outdoor/photo one black.  But my garage one will just get painted whatever color of rattle can i happen to have lying around.  More of a rust prevention then aesthetics.  any chance you can link a pic of the cast-alu collar with brake shoes?
Reply:I'll take a Photo and post up in a little bitEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridgeFor the Photo C-Stand make the Top Pin 5/8" as that is the Standard size and other accessories are made based on the 5/8" Pin size.If you are going to make an Arm, the Arm should also be 5/8"Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:dayam!  pics of that clamp are awesome, you rule!!!!!!where can i get some of that?  what's the proper name for those clamps?
Reply:Call this placehttp://normsgrip.com/index.phpYou can tell them Broccoli sent youThey're cool and will chat on the phone- tell them you are building a couple c-stands for fun and want the Riser collars.BTW- the photos were taken with my Iphone4.I couldn't believe it either- that dern Phone Camera rocks.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Really nice job. I've enjoyed watching this build. FWIW C-stands don't usually have legs that go up and down. The reason for the legs being at three different heights is so that on a tight set with many lights the legs can be stacked over each other to get the main risers closer. C-stands are a studio stand and collapsable tripod stands are for outside. You can't stack tripods near each other. Here's a recent set and you can see how the stands are nested: For uneven terrain the best stand is a tripod stand with a "lazy leg" - basically one leg that can telescope and extend down farther. This leg is put on the down side or low side and set until the stand is level. That was a nice link Broccoli - didn't know you could order parts. Those riser collars would be a great solution for you. The C-stand is a pretty refined tool so it would be hard to find improvements.Oh, and one last thing - only CA people like silver stands which is a carry over from the movie industry. They're silver because the plating holds up well to being hauled around in grip trucks which black doesn't. In NYC we use black stands because in still photography the silver will reflect lights and make highlights on what you're shooting. Since C-stands don't go outside they don't see the sun and so they never get hot. Looking forward to seeing you finish them!Gregorgregor halenda photography
Reply:thanks, broccoli!
Reply:We use C-stands outside all the timeEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Originally Posted by sakurama. That was a nice link Broccoli - didn't know you could order parts.