Log Splitters AnyONE????

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im looking to build a log splitter and im just looking for some ideas and pics and whatever else that would help out..thanks guys
Reply:Working on one right now.Cylinder Diameter... 5.5"Rod Diameter 4"8x8 I Beam.Will put out a little over 33 tons when complete.
Reply:Originally Posted by BCFishManWorking on one right now.Cylinder Diameter... 5.5"Rod Diameter 4"8x8 I Beam.Will put out a little over 33 tons when complete.
Reply:I got the cylinder for free from my local Waste Management, Said it was leaking and out of warranty.26 bucks worth of new seals and it was fixed..Other hydraulic places wanted 250 to take it apart and fix it.Cutting the cylinder off and putting a new one on would probably be a two day ordeal.I wont be deterred.
Reply:Originally Posted by jreynoldsweldingHope that cylinder never has to be replaced...
Reply:Originally Posted by BCFishManI got the cylinder for free from my local Waste Management, Said it was leaking and out of warranty.26 bucks worth of new seals and it was fixed..Other hydraulic places wanted 250 to take it apart and fix it.Cutting the cylinder off and putting a new one on would probably be a two day ordeal.I wont be deterred.
Reply:Originally Posted by cocoboloWhat are you going to use to power the cylinder?
Reply:The ones I used to have had one large 7/8 or 1inch bolt mounted to the top of the cylinder.The rest of the cylinder floated and the wedge had 3/8s plaste that sandwiched the top of the I beam with 8  grade 8 bolts and wedge slid on that. You will want the wedge to be bolted to the beam to keep bark from getting stuck under it when it extends out.Vantage 300 kubota ,miller 304 xmt ,lincoln ln 25 pro , ranger 305 G, plenty of other tools of the trade to make the sparks fly.
Reply:I have a hydraulic pump with a hand crank on it.One person will crank, the other will put the piece of wood on the track, go make a sandwich, run to the store, do their taxes, and then come back to catch the wood as it gets ready to fall off.I have a Hydreco 1515M Pump and currently a 13 hp side shaft motor. I am currently looking for a 23hp side shaft motor for a good price. Have missed a couple on craigslist. Not too worried about it though. Unbolting one motor, and bolting on a new one won't be too much work.If the cylinder is out of round, shrank, decides not to work, blows up, takes off with another cylinder and flees to Tijuana, then I'll just find another and get to work on that one.I am a hobby welder. Started welding a year ago and enjoy it. Bought some equipment and went to town.I have gotten everything for this build really cheap over the past 6 months. It sits in my garage and when I have time to work on it, I do.Is there more welds than people may think are necessary, maybe. But it's good practice. I didn't run straight beads, I would do an inch, and then move to the next plate, etc. If I checked on here first and asked opinions, I probably wouldnt have started because everyone would be arguing whose design is better.If it was a genuine concern, then thanks, if you are bored and wanting to practice your comedy skills, that too is understandable, and if you're just trying to be an arse, well, don't bother.Cylinder - Free - $26 bucks in new sealsEngine - $35 (runs)Hydreco 1515 Pump - $25Two way conrol valve - $25Splitting head - $10Steel including I-beam - $130Large aluminum tank to make gas tank and hydraulic fluid reservoir - $50Axle with good tires - $50Will probably require another $100 for hydraulic lines, filter, etc.Sorry to hijack your thread. Hopefully you can get started and enjoy your project.If you get negative feedback, remember parts of the country are getting cold and it makes people cranky.
Reply:When I made my first log splitter,  about 30 years ago I made the same mistake. But not to this extreme.   Snapped the cylinder rod right at the wedge.  Broke the clevis right off.  Like it or not the beam/bed will flex when you split a log.  The point at the wedge and rod will be the weak link.  Stiffer is not always better.  You could try beefing up the bottom of the beam but I am not sure it will work.
Reply:Originally Posted by BCFishManI have a hydraulic pump with a hand crank on it.One person will crank, the other will put the piece of wood on the track, go make a sandwich, run to the store, do their taxes, and then come back to catch the wood as it gets ready to fall off.I have a Hydreco 1515M Pump and currently a 13 hp side shaft motor. I am currently looking for a 23hp side shaft motor for a good price. Have missed a couple on craigslist. Not too worried about it though. Unbolting one motor, and bolting on a new one won't be too much work.If the cylinder is out of round, shrank, decides not to work, blows up, takes off with another cylinder and flees to Tijuana, then I'll just find another and get to work on that one.I am a hobby welder. Started welding a year ago and enjoy it. Bought some equipment and went to town.I have gotten everything for this build really cheap over the past 6 months. It sits in my garage and when I have time to work on it, I do.Is there more welds than people may think are necessary, maybe. But it's good practice. I didn't run straight beads, I would do an inch, and then move to the next plate, etc. If I checked on here first and asked opinions, I probably wouldnt have started because everyone would be arguing whose design is better.If it was a genuine concern, then thanks, if you are bored and wanting to practice your comedy skills, that too is understandable, and if you're just trying to be an arse, well, don't bother.Cylinder - Free - $26 bucks in new sealsEngine - $35 (runs)Hydreco 1515 Pump - $25Two way conrol valve - $25Splitting head - $10Steel including I-beam - $130Large aluminum tank to make gas tank and hydraulic fluid reservoir - $50Axle with good tires - $50Will probably require another $100 for hydraulic lines, filter, etc.Sorry to hijack your thread. Hopefully you can get started and enjoy your project.If you get negative feedback, remember parts of the country are getting cold and it makes people cranky.
Reply:I don't have any picts of the splitter I built about 20 years ago. Its had a few reworks.  I post only to say. Don't forget to look at the vertical shaft motors available on a lot of riding lawn mowers. I had the same 12 hp vertical shaft motor on my splitter from day one. The 16 gpm pump from Northern Hydraulics ( Northern Tool) does not seem to matter how it is mounted. I notice a lot of the splitters where the beam can be rotated for upright use, use vertical shaft motors. Gene
Reply:Originally Posted by wampler234im looking to build a log splitter and im just looking for some ideas and pics and whatever else that would help out..thanks guys
Reply:I agree with "daddy".BCFishman,I hope they have another cylinder........Wampler,I think I would use a clevis at the back end of the cylinder and then a saddle and clamp at the other.  Then do the typical slide with the pusher on it and the wedge mounted to the end of the beam.  Less debris will get packed into the slide that way.  From what I have seen, vertical shaft engines seem to be cheaper and more readily available.My name's not Jim....
Reply:here's pics of the splitter my family and i built 6 yrs ago.  scrounged a lot of steel.bought some parts and steel.  our total build price was $700.  15" wheels, 14 hp motor with elec. start, 4" x 24" ram, 11 gpm 2 stage pump which i think is a must.  built with info for a 20 ton splitter.  it will tilt up also.    dave Attached Images
Reply:Well BC I see the peanut gallery has already fired a shot across your bow on this.My only thought was if you removed the Hydraulic Cylinder Piston Rod before you did all that welding on the cylinder??    Reason being is that all that welding would have burnt the seals and o rings. If the Hydraulic fluid was in the cylinder at the time of welding then you need to change out the fluid as well as remove the piston and look down the cylinder for cylinder wall scarring. if the scarring is present you'll need to refinish the wall either with cylinder hone or some very fine emery cloth! This will ensure that you seals and o rings will not wear out prematurely.Co-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.&  2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:You cannot buy new parts and assemble them for the price of a manufactured product.The above quote is so true.I was going to build me one from all new parts but after I priced all of the parts,I could buy one cheaper than building one.I can buy a brand new one to go behind my tractor(22 ton) for about $700 dollars and just use the tractor's hydraulic's to operate the cylinder which is probably what I'll do when I do go buy one.Last edited by dugndeep; 12-01-2010 at 06:10 PM.Maxus Pro-125 MigChicago Electric 90 amp DC flux-coreLincoln Electric AC 225 tombstoneO/A torchM/O mini-torch10 acres of flatland15 acres of holler
Reply:First question I have for you and a lot of others who have built splitters. Why so big, is it due to the materials that are scavenged. I see you want to aquire a 20+ HP motor. with a ram with a cross section as big as  yours you can exert a lot of pressure with even a 8 or 10 HP motor with the proper pump. I quess  the pump will give you a recomendation on HP but 20+. My cousin laughs because 20 yrs ago he bought the cheapest splitter he could get from Northern, 5 HP briggs and he has been splitting as well as the whole family borrowing it for 20 years and it seems to go through almost everything we have thrown at it. The length also seems excessive but thats your call, for your needs, You still have to store and move these things around and yours will be quite heavy. On anchoring that cylinder you might have set it in a pipe welded to the upright on the far end of the cylinder and might have built a saddle with a large u bolt to hold it at the ram end. Easy to change out that way. just a thought. May I ask if you specifically wanted a throw this long for a reason or did it just come your way at a reasonable cost?"Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251   Syncrowave 300   30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200   1 short hood    SA250    SAM 400
Reply:The cylinder I got was free from Waste Management.It is the only one they had. I like the longer stroke because I can split bigger logs for bon fires and such.The rod was moved when I was welding to avoid the seals being near the heat. Yes the hydraulic fluid was removed before welding as well.The steel that the cylinder sits on was cut out beforehand, placed on the beam with right angle magnets and the beam was sat down inside of them. The welds aren't very thick either. They were done to keep the cut out pieces in place.There is still alot to do. I am planning on using angle to make a track that the splitting head slides between, and has a piece across the top as well. That will prevent the splitting head from moving horizontally or vertically.Spec, I'm not too worried about the "peanut gallery". If the whole project is a failure, (which based on input, it most certainly will be) then I will cut off the cylinder, get a new one, and redo it.The engine needed to achieve the 2800 psi, was a 23hp motor. That is from the company's website. That is for the pump.Anyhow, wampler, hopefully, you're getting something from your post.
Reply:Take a look at this one from Troy-Bilt:http://www.troybilt.com/webapp/wcs/s...16803_54998_-1This design has the cylinder hanging off the end of the beam.  Shorter (less expensive) beam and less weight.Tim
Reply:Originally Posted by daddyWampler, here is my two cents, for what it may be worth... I would first ask what the reason for the build is, and proceed based on the answer. If you want to save money, be prepared to do alot of scrounging. You cannot buy new parts and assemble them for the price of a manufactured product. If you want the satisfaction of having built it yourself, or better yet, if you want better than standard features, or specific dimensions, then knock yerself out. Just don't automatically expect to save money by doing it yourself.After seriously considering a build myself, I decided I couldn't afford it, and bought a new 22 ton Huskee (Speeco?). I did modify it by adding a "table" to catch the offside split so I don't have to bend over twice to pick the same log off the ground. I'll see if I can dig up a pic of that.If you do end up building one, I'd strongly suggest mounting the cylinder in the same manner as virtually all hyd. cylinders( I.E. at the ends), and would not mimic BCfishman's design. No offense intended, fishman, but your setup will not stand the test of time IMHO.
Reply:keep the good ideas and comments guys!
Reply:Sounds like you may be able to save some money on the project if you do it yourself.I'll suggest a few other things:Go look at the popular manufactured units and key off of their designs. This is not rocket science, and they have done all the hard work for us.Consider the ergonomics carefully. Spitting is hard work, even when a machine does it for you. I prefer to stand and split horizontally, and the additon of the table to catch wood after it is split is something I should have had from day one. Some guys even go as far as to make log lifts that are hydraulically actuated... You will get more done if you are comfy.A valve that locks for the return stroke and kicks out when the cylinder bottoms allows you to grab another log with both hands while it is cycling. I usually catch it before it hits the end of the stroke and am splitting again. The ram is always in motion. More production.
Reply:Thats what i was looking at the ones that go vertical to... i just dont know if i would like that i hate being bent down working and that just seems like that you would be on the ground all day...i like the idea of a table not having to bend down and pick up a peice every time stack up some and not have everything fall to the ground
Reply:do you have a table on your now?? anypics?Originally Posted by BCFishManThe cylinder I got was free from Waste Management.It is the only one they had. I like the longer stroke because I can split bigger logs for bon fires and such.The rod was moved when I was welding to avoid the seals being near the heat. Yes the hydraulic fluid was removed before welding as well.The steel that the cylinder sits on was cut out beforehand, placed on the beam with right angle magnets and the beam was sat down inside of them. The welds aren't very thick either. They were done to keep the cut out pieces in place.There is still alot to do. I am planning on using angle to make a track that the splitting head slides between, and has a piece across the top as well. That will prevent the splitting head from moving horizontally or vertically.Spec, I'm not too worried about the "peanut gallery". If the whole project is a failure, (which based on input, it most certainly will be) then I will cut off the cylinder, get a new one, and redo it.The engine needed to achieve the 2800 psi, was a 23hp motor. That is from the company's website. That is for the pump.Anyhow, wampler, hopefully, you're getting something from your post.
Reply:Thing about having a machine that does vertical is for the heavy logs you don't have to lift them to put them on the deck. you can block them up and then roll another next to it sit on it and split away. I had a 8 hp northstar when I sold firewood went through two engines and 1 hydro pump it has 2100 hours on it when I sold it. They cylinder was going bad and so was my back lol.Vantage 300 kubota ,miller 304 xmt ,lincoln ln 25 pro , ranger 305 G, plenty of other tools of the trade to make the sparks fly.
Reply:Wampler, I did not have any pics of the tray on mine, so I walked out in the dark to the shed, and got a couple shots with the flash. Sorry about the quality, It was poke and hope!It will work in the vertical position still, I made sure it does not interfere. The only time I stand it up is when the rounds are way to big to lift. I often work off a trailer I built, and usually haul log lengths, cut 'em on the deck, and transfer to the splitter. If you want better pics, or more detail, It's no big deal to snap a few tomorrow in the daylight. I probably used 6010, or old wet 7018's out of my open stock.I doubt I'll paint it. Attached Images
Reply:Daddy-Do you have your own sawmill?I have a friend who's dad has one and his barn looks like yours with all the wood he has made into dimensional lumber,anything from oak,cherry or walnut,etc.Nice thing to have.Maxus Pro-125 MigChicago Electric 90 amp DC flux-coreLincoln Electric AC 225 tombstoneO/A torchM/O mini-torch10 acres of flatland15 acres of holler
Reply:Originally Posted by dugndeepDaddy-Do you have your own sawmill?I have a friend who's dad has one and his barn looks like yours with all the wood he has made into dimensional lumber,anything from oak,cherry or walnut,etc.Nice thing to have.
Reply:Where you live looks similiar to where I live(lol).I'm on top of a ridge too,it's about 300 foot to the bottom of the holler where the creek is that run's to the river.Last edited by dugndeep; 12-02-2010 at 06:40 PM.Maxus Pro-125 MigChicago Electric 90 amp DC flux-coreLincoln Electric AC 225 tombstoneO/A torchM/O mini-torch10 acres of flatland15 acres of holler
Reply:now thats a big tree there lol nice work! more pics would be great if you could and it wouldnt be a bother... hows the tilt on it just a pin or what
Reply:Well I guess we got wampler's thread completely hijacked now!The pic is deceiving, I'm only about half way up the side, or less. My buddy on top calls my family "valley folk," and I call his "hill people."
Reply:Originally Posted by wampler234now thats a big tree there lol nice work! more pics would be great if you could and it wouldnt be a bother... hows the tilt on it just a pin or what
Reply:sounds great to me!
Reply:Unfortunately, I have split more wood than any person should, both by hand and machine (professionally, and for home).  The only reason for splitting vertical is to save your back on a really, really, large diameter / heavy log.  Otherwise, horizontal is the way to go.  You generally don't leave the splitter to grab another log, because you want to push the split pieces off the other side before they fall, or else you'll trip all over them.  The splitter I used had an auto return, but if I wanted to make any real progress, I would never let it stroke out unless it was a really stringy log.  Good luck on the build!
Reply:My buddy on top calls my family "valley folk," and I call his "hill people."Maxus Pro-125 MigChicago Electric 90 amp DC flux-coreLincoln Electric AC 225 tombstoneO/A torchM/O mini-torch10 acres of flatland15 acres of holler
Reply:so i guess it would probly be wise to make it be able to tilt at least
Reply:Originally Posted by wampler234im looking to build a log splitter and im just looking for some ideas and pics and whatever else that would help out..thanks guys
Reply:Nitesky's suggestion is good. Anyway, here are the other pics... Attached Images
Reply:Gotta add a weld pic to make it legit.And a shot of the woodpile just to prove it works.Must have been 6010, and no prep at all. Attached Images
Reply:Hmm, I like that design.  One thing I like to do is split a bunch and pull ahead, split a bunch more and pull ahead.  Your splitter drops the pieces behind the axle Gordie -- "I believe you understand what you think I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant."
Reply:thats somthing ive never thought about at all there nitesky... good pointthanks for the pics!!! those help alot how wide is your center beam? I have some i beam that is perdy heavy duty but im thinking its to narrow... then i have something like an H, its all 1/2 metal but its just three 1/2 flanges that are welded togather idk if that would be that great to use.
Reply:i checked it today and its 8inchs tall and 6 inches wide....the 6inch wide flanges are 1/2 then the center web that is 8 inches is 5/16 thick. Idk if that would be the thing to use because its submeraged arc welded togather
Reply:Wampler, That sounds about right if it's straight.Daddy,Do you have problems with that slide groove filling up with ****?My name's not Jim....
Reply:boost, stuff does build up some. Most of it just pushes out the end where the ends are clipped off. One time, in the 6 or so years that I've had it, a sliver of split wood got pinched between the top of the beam, and the bottom of the wedge, and took me a couple minutes to get it out. I did not have to take anything apart, but it did noticeably affect the operation.I'll sweep the bark and junk off the top of the beam with my hand or a chunk of wood when it piles up enough to lift the end of the next log, but other than that, it is mostly self cleaning.I'd have to think pretty hard to come up with a much better design. I might make the wedge taller, and maybe do a four or six way wedge...probably a can 'o worms though. Bigger foot, more power etc.
Reply:well i thnk the size would be right and im all have to check for sraightness... im just worrying about it being tuff enough one side is welded now i was planing on welding the other side of the web if i used it but not sure if it would all stay togather under all that pressure.
Reply:Originally Posted by wampler234well i thnk the size would be right and im all have to check for sraightness... im just worrying about it being tuff enough one side is welded now i was planing on welding the other side of the web if i used it but not sure if it would all stay togather under all that pressure.
Reply:i will have to get some in the morning of it...i have a true i beam but the flanges are only 4 3/4 inches wide
Reply:Originally Posted by wampler234Thats what i was looking at the ones that go vertical to... i just dont know if i would like that i hate being bent down working and that just seems like that you would be on the ground all day...i like the idea of a table not having to bend down and pick up a peice every time stack up some and not have everything fall to the ground