How to weld anchor chain?

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Hi everybody!My name is Nick, I am new here.... Stumbled upon this forum after searching the net on how to weld anchor chain. I am not a welder myself so I would have to give instructions to the local smitty. The 2 anchor chains I would like to join are galvanized grade 40, 13mm. Obviously I would like the weld to be as strong as possible. Could I just cut the last link in half and ask him to TIG or MIG weld it?!? Or is there any better ( stronger) solution?Thanks for your input!Cheers
Reply:The only chains I've seen welded were anchor chains for bouys. There they had repair links and hot forged the weld using a rosebud. They basically slipped the two links that needed to be joined over the repair link, then the repair link was heated to welding heat and then beaten with hammers to close the link and fuse the two pieces.On small chains I've seen cold type repair links used. Here the link wraps all the way around so the material is doubled up on both ends, and again you use a hammer to close the link. That or they use shackle type repair links where you simply insert the pins.Good chain is usually high tensile steel, and often heat treated. These materials usually require special prep and weld procedures, at least when dealt with topside. They are prone to cracking if not welded properly. Galvi will complicate things. Galvi gives of nasty fumes when heated and can make you sick. Also the zink will contaminate the welds and make welding a PITA. I would not recommend welding galvi chain if  strength is a major factor..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Why do you need to weld it? A shackle would probably be better. Attached ImagesIan TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:Ditto the shackle. What are you using it for?
Reply:Originally Posted by n1ckHi everybody!My name is Nick, I am new here.... Stumbled upon this forum after searching the net on how to weld anchor chain. I am not a welder myself so I would have to give instructions to the local smitty. The 2 anchor chains I would like to join are galvanized grade 40, 13mm. Obviously I would like the weld to be as strong as possible. Could I just cut the last link in half and ask him to TIG or MIG weld it?!? Or is there any better ( stronger) solution?Thanks for your input!Cheers
Reply:I wouldn't join a chain with a single clevis.  That puts stress on it the wrong way.A double clevis would work safely, but wouldn't be able to pass through a block, so it might not be an acceptable solution. Attached Images
Reply:Most chains are heat-treated.  Welding would result in one link that has only 50%, or less the strength of the rest.The best option is to use things like these:
Reply:Originally Posted by JoshfromsaltlakeMost chains are heat-treated.  Welding would result in one link that has only 50%, or less the strength of the rest.The best option is to use things like these:
Reply:Originally Posted by JoshfromsaltlakeMost chains are heat-treated.  Welding would result in one link that has only 50%, or less the strength of the rest.The best option is to use things like these:
Reply:n1ck  Are you rejoining the link, or welding a partial link to something else?     Opus
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWOn small chains I've seen cold type repair links used. Here the link wraps all the way around so the material is doubled up on both ends, and again you use a hammer to close the link. That or they use shackle type repair links where you simply insert the pins.
Reply:Anchor chain could be a big category.  And some pretty big links too. Anchor chain for a boat or a ship? "The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:Use a Crosby forged " missing link"  http://www.riggingwarehouse.com/prod...e05@@2e18.aspxDisclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Thanks for all your advice, appreciate it!! The thing is, I cannot just use any shackle 'cause I want the combined anchor chain to fit my anchor winch. Guess an option would be the Crosby forged link, will look into it.Thanks again. Cheers!
Reply:Originally Posted by fortyonethirtyWhy do you need to weld it? A shackle would probably be better.
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerDitto the shackle. What are you using it for?
Reply:Originally Posted by fran...k.The one on the left has a pretty good working load limit and comes in stainless steel.  The one on the right has an awful low working load limit.  Not familiar with the one in the middle.  The one on the left at least in the sizes I deal with a bigger connector link will fit than the size of the chain approaching the strength of the chain though I kind of like them not for max strength use.Would I be wrong to guess there is an anchor, then enough chain so that the anchor will stay laying flat and then nylon line up to the bow of the boat where it is tied off?
Reply:Originally Posted by OPUS FERROn1ck  Are you rejoining the link, or welding a partial link to something else?     Opus
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyAnchor chain could be a big category.  And some pretty big links too. Anchor chain for a boat or a ship?
Reply:If you must weld one. I'd suggest this strategy. 1. See if you can find a stainless steel link to cut and weld, the stainless will make for any easier weld than galvanized. 2. If it must be galvanized, make sure to remove all of the zinc, grind it off, burn it off (being very careful not to breath the smoke), or dip it in muriatic acid solution. 3. TIG weld it.Ian TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:n1ckYour splice can be made serviceable by an able craftman, but if you ever have an anchor issue, Lloyds of London willnot side with you.OpusLast edited by OPUS FERRO; 09-09-2012 at 03:18 AM.
Reply:I'm afraid no matter what you do, you'll end up with a link that is more like a Grade 30 (or less) than a Grade 40."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Cheers everyone for thinking with me! Think my best bet would be to look for a certified Crosby link that fits my anchor winch. As suggested by TozziWelding....
Reply:http://www.twaycompany.com/weldedchains.php.html These guys are in Indianapolis, Indiana. The welder is a good guy and if you call him; he will help. They have the certified chain welder and the equipment to test welds with a certified strength test.
Reply:Originally Posted by Cat220http://www.twaycompany.com/weldedchains.php.html These guys are in Indianapolis, Indiana. The welder is a good guy and if you call him; he will help. They have the certified chain welder and the equipment to test welds with a certified strength test.I'm assuming you're trying to save money by just welding a link on to add more length to the chain/repair a broken chain. But at this point you need to weigh the costs against the investment. you're talking about a $10 repair for a boat that (since it has an anchor winch) is going to be $30K+. This $10 repair will not be the same strength as your current chain. simple as that. This puts a HUGE risk in liability on you as you're the one who did the repair. Or you could invest in a new length of chain that will not have a weak link. protect you larger investment, and have plenty of chain to play with for art/decrative welding. of which you could probably sell and make your money back for the cost of the chain, consumables, time, labor, and maybe a little more.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammerI'm assuming you're trying to save money by just welding a link on to add more length to the chain/repair a broken chain. But at this point you need to weigh the costs against the investment. you're talking about a $10 repair for a boat that (since it has an anchor winch) is going to be $30K+. This $10 repair will not be the same strength as your current chain. simple as that. This puts a HUGE risk in liability on you as you're the one who did the repair. Or you could invest in a new length of chain that will not have a weak link. protect you larger investment, and have plenty of chain to play with for art/decrative welding. of which you could probably sell and make your money back for the cost of the chain, consumables, time, labor, and maybe a little more.
Reply:Some folks splice a nylon line to the chain."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Do you have a way to test the tensile strength of a welded chain link versus a pristine chain link?The home welded link won't be as strong, but how strong do you need it to be? If it's blowing hard enough to break your welded link, my hunch is that you have a hell of a lot more to worry about than losing your anchor...like losing your boat and losing your life. Lloyd's may be the least of your worries.
Reply:you know, I don't think anyone asked this, but where is the brake? or are you just adding length to the chain? Also, what size is the chain? and what size is the boat? and finally, where do you keep said bahemith that needs 400' of chain and can't use anchor line?There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammeryou know, I don't think anyone asked this, but where is the brake? or are you just adding length to the chain? Also, what size is the chain? and what size is the boat? and finally, where do you keep said bahemith that needs 400' of chain and can't use anchor line?
Reply:Another option no one has mentioned, is anchor in shallower water. If it's 400'  to the bottom, just stay underway till you get to where the chain WILL reach bottom. Cheapest solution to the whole delima, except for the fuel to keep motoring around looking for shallower water(unless you already know where it is)
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauAnother option no one has mentioned, is anchor in shallower water.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWActually you need a fair amount of scope laying on the bottom so an anchor will hold, plus the length on an angle.
Reply:Thanks Kelvin. I knew my guess was off last night, but I was too tired to bother looking it all up..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Yeah, the 400ft is to be on the save side.. Like mentioned before: if anchored in 40 ft of water you let out approx. 200ft of chain (5:1). To be on the safe side use 300 ft (7:1). Now, if you are in strong winds ( or high waves) you would go for 10:1, 400ft of chain.
Reply:Hi,Sorry if previously mentioned,but have you seen these? http://www.westechrigging.com/non-li...ing-links.htmlJeff
Reply:Originally Posted by jbaHi,Sorry if previously mentioned,but have you seen these? http://www.westechrigging.com/non-li...ing-links.htmlJeff
Reply:Hi,4:1 safety factor gives an ultimate of 19,000 lbs. Anchor rodes rely on catenary to function properly, that provides the cushion. Same as the tow line on a sea going tug.Jeff
Reply:30 metric ton boat...There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Hi,Sorry Thor I didn't realize we were lifting the boat out of the water with the anchor chain.Seriously though, the chain will never be pulled taught enough to form a straight line. The catenary or the weight of the sagging chain is what holds the vessel on station. At 30 tons of pull, I'd guess the anchor would fail too.http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...w#.UFDLW0KaBFQJeff
Reply:Originally Posted by jbaHi,Sorry if previously mentioned,but have you seen these? http://www.westechrigging.com/non-li...ing-links.htmlJeff