Cutting with propylene?

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I don't quite know how to set my torch properly when cutting. Down here at the school, they use propylene for various reasons... thing is, all the experience I have with cutting is with acetylene.There was a process if I remember it right... open up the gas valve, light the torch, crank it until the soot/smoke goes away, then introduce the oxygen and adjust the oxygen until it's good and the feathers are nice...... but the propylene, uh... I can't see any soot or smoke! (I can adjust an acetylene flame even with my goggles on pretty good, do I need to remove them to get a propylene flame going?) I'm having to have others help me with the settings but I can't quite understand how it works.Is there a step-by-step process to this?Keeping it down in the hood...literally!
Reply:I haven't worked with propylene so can't give you detailed instructions, but can say that you want the preheat flame to be about neutral. If you can't tell by looking at the flame, try heating some steel as if you were going to weld it, using just the preheat, and adjust until the steel's behavior indicates the flame is neutral. Then adjust the oxygen up and down until you can recognize the neutral condition, if it's possible to do so just by looking.
Reply:If you are at a school would not the instructor have that information?
Reply:[QUOTE=Fat Bastard;322105]If you are at a school would not the instructor have that information?[/QDittoRanger 250 GXTSmith Gas Axe
Reply:OK. for propalyne,1st make sure the pressure regulators are set right. 40 lbs for the oxy and 10 for the fuel. it's usually between 5-7 lbs for acetelyne but propalyne goes a little higher. there is no soot w/propalyne. as far as setting the fuel. look at the flame. the best way I can describe it is the flame will be between 8 in to a foot in length and the bass of the flame will not be very far away from the tip. about a centimeter.If your flame goes out as soon as you turn on the oxy,relight,and turn down the fuel a little bit.turn on the oxy. carefully adjust your flame to what appears to be a neutral flame.then,hit the burn valve,and hold.readjust your flame till it look like a neutral flame.now you're ready to go.
Reply:And don't be affraid to ask your instructor to show you.that's what he's there for.
Reply:Crack open fuel valve, light torch.  Open fuel valve until flame moves away from tip, bring flame back to tip and then open oxygen to bring flame to neutral.  Repeat 2 more times.  Propylene and Propane torches should whistle a bit when you get them to their optimum settings.
Reply:Here's a good instructional manual for you to reference to:http://www.thermadyne.com/IM_Uploads..._0056-0138.pdfGood Luck!BTW, on propylene, I like to crack the oxygen a hair before I light the fuel gas much easier.Propylene may be a pain if your'e trying to use acetyne brazing tips.
Reply:Vary nice of the blokes here to give you some information,   BUT you are in school, and have access to a person that you have paid to get information and instruction from yet you are here?
Reply:I don't yell loud enough or yell enough period to people at school to get detailed information...I suppose I should push a little harder.At the same time, it's kind of hard to explain a complex situation when you have ceiling fans and grinding going on in the background...I managed to cut by myself today, but I don't have it down to a science just yet.Are the blue feathers on propylene longer than when using acetylene? I haven't quite memorized how a neutral flame is supposed to look (it's been a long time).The tip itself is a two-piece tip with splines instead of holes, I believe.Keeping it down in the hood...literally!
Reply:Neutral flame, whatever fuel, is where the feathers just barely suck back into the blue cones.   The cones should remain the same color, and the same size, whether or not the cutting lever is pressed, if not, either your fuel gas pressure or oxygen pressure is wrong.   I, also, agree with the previous posters,,,,   you are in a class, it's your instructors JOB to tell you this stuff.   You shy???????
Reply:On propylene, the secondary flame is alot longer hotter than acetylene which entails that if you were in the process of cutting try to increase the distance from the plate to the torch. You will notice that you were able to still cut while lifting the torch away at a good distance whereas you wouldnt be able to do the same with acetylene.
Reply:Originally Posted by Drake AldanAt the same time, it's kind of hard to explain a complex situation when you have ceiling fans and grinding going on in the background...
Reply:I worked for Halliburton in Coffeyville Ks. for 3 years. They switched to propylene while I was there. I was taught to always turn on a little oxygen when lighting my propylene torch so I didnt get any propylene into your clothes. Seen guys burned by not doing so. I tell welders that and they say you cant do that. But I  didnt go to that cant do school. Learned by experience and by listening to experience. I usually dont take much stock in what somebody tells me if they are to fresh out of school. Try both and then make your decision. A clean propylene torch when set right really screams. Have a good day. And God bless.
Reply:what are they teaching you at that school?