7018 Open Root.

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Hey all.I have a welding test coming up.  I have to weld some pipe in the 6 G  It has to be welded all the way out with 7018, root pass and all.   Any ideas on how to run a root with 7018 ?  Had a journeyman tell me he whips his 7018 roots.  He told me it wasnt the right way but thats how he does it.  I know this can cause all kinds of problems like porosity and such.  So any ideas ?  Oh and I did a search on here didnt find what I was looking for.Thanks
Reply:id bevel to a point 1/16" root opening and use a 3/32" 7018 for the root, and maybe whip it when i need to. try with and without a root opening. u might have better luck without. depends on your skill.
Reply:Thanks guys I have a week to practice this.  Whipping is out of the question I dont want to risk porosity, the welds will be X rayed.  I know running roots with 6011 or 10 is a lot easier.  I can have 2 weeks if I need them to practice.  I might need it haha
Reply:you dont have to whip like a mad man......the 7018 can handle a mild manipulation without risking porosity. i do it all the time on accident (natural shake of my hand) works to my advantage 100% of the time! i dont tell the students that though! i tell em its on purpose!
Reply:Good.  Who knows I may have to do that.  I will probably try a 1/8 gap 3/32 land and a 1/8 rod at about 100 amps or so first and try and weave around the keyhole to get good penetration on both bevels.
Reply:that aint gonna cut it i dont think. the 7018 is not a deep penetrating electrode especially if its a 1/8" diameter at 100 amps. if you have to go with the 1/8" u might fine it easier to take the land down to 1/16" to nothing and stick with no root opening or 1/16" at the max. experiment!
Reply:I wouldn't whip it out of the puddle and back in like a 60xx.  Manipulating the rod within puddle is perfectly fine though.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:i played with doing it when i was spending hours practicing v upand got it to work. more of a weave than a whip. whip being going out of puddle, weave being make the pudddle go side to side,fast through the middle.
Reply:When I had to run a 7018 open root it was on a plate test.  I had a feather edge and a 1/32-1/16 gap.  I used a 3/32 rod.  I was taught to carry the heat on the on the bevel.  It isn't a true weave, but more like a fat stringer.  It is very different than running a root with a p5 or 6011.  With the latter, I tend to jam the rod and burn the root in or if the fitup is not optimum I will step the root.
Reply:The test requires me to have a gap and land of some sort.  I believe 1/16th gap and 1/16th land would be acceptable though.
Reply:ive taken the 2'' high pressure in 6 g with 100% 7018. on 6'' i would use 1/8'' gap and land, run about 90 to 100 amps, once you get the key hole just keep movin up. keep some wedges handy, if your takcs aint right the gap will close upLast edited by weld4you; 10-04-2009 at 12:10 PM.
Reply:a long time ago we did open root on pipe with 7016 (i think) . this is another lohi rodIt runs very like a 7018 and nothing like 6010.we had 1/8" gap, 1/8" or 3/32" land and a 3/32" rod.used to weave it along the very edge of the keyhole with a tight arc to get the bead on the inside.sorry cant remember the amps, but it was at the lower end for that rod.didnt look 2 great on the outside of the pipe before we ground it out, but the inside could look great if you  got it dialed in.G
Reply:Me personally, I would run a 1/8 landing and gap. (gap will close up) with 3/32 rod. Use a little less heat at first and turn it up slowly as you progress. Keep a decent keyhole (heat can help enable this) and make sure the sides are tying in and the rod angle/slight pause is correct. Dont worrie about the outer bead appearence. Everyone has different ways of welding and you just need to find what works good for you. Again, practice. I think you will be surprised at how great the root will look.WHAT DOES NOT KILL US, MAKES US STRONGER...http://www.myspace.com/painter22
Reply:Originally Posted by troyboyMe personally, I would run a 1/8 landing and gap. (gap will close up) with 3/32 rod. Use a little less heat at first and turn it up slowly as you progress. Keep a decent keyhole (heat can help enable this) and make sure the sides are tying in and the rod angle/slight pause is correct. Dont worrie about the outer bead appearence. Everyone has different ways of welding and you just need to find what works good for you. Again, practice. I think you will be surprised at how great the root will look.
Reply:The test you are talking about is one that was used in our jurisdiction many years ago.It was set up with 3/32" land; 3/32" gap. Using 3/32" - 7018 electrodes at 90 to 100 ampswith D.C. set on straight polarity. I would put in three tacks at 3 o'clock; 6 o'clock; and 12 o'clock. Start your root pass at 6 o'clock, and push it right in there! The tacks are feathered out with a grinder and you run right up to the middle of the tack. Stop, grind, and run to the next tack.A little practice will have you welding successful roots. All the best,Bgbkwndo.
Reply:Hey all thanks for the advice.  I found out the root is ran with a 3/32 rod.  A lot of people run a 1/8 land and a 3/32 gap from what im told.  I wont be doing this test for a few weeks.  I have to finish my CWB tests first (plate tests).  I do my vertical CWB tomorrow and next thurs I do my overhead.   I have my flat and vert done.  Then I will be going on to the T-Class test (Pipe).Thanks again
Reply:Originally Posted by BgbkwndoThe test you are talking about is one that was used in our jurisdiction many years ago.It was set up with 3/32" land; 3/32" gap. Using 3/32" - 7018 electrodes at 90 to 100 ampswith D.C. set on straight polarity. Bgbkwndo.
Reply:I use a 1/32" land with a 1/32" gap. Don't be scared to play with the amperage. My roots improved a huge amount once I figured out how to read the heat and make amperage adjustments.  I start on BOP with about 90 amps and turn the amperage down a little as the pipe gets hot (the Linc. 350P machines at our test center run very hot). I don't ever really get a keyhole, but I do see the top of the land burning away. Rod angle is very important for me. My rod is laid into the puddle into the puddle at a pretty severe angle. You can take a little heat out of the puddle by squaring up the rod to the pipe. I grind my tacks all the way out. If you're like me, repair your mistakes on your practice pieces. You want to be good at it if you screw up during a test.