Need help getting setup. Tigwave 250

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Been in the market for a tig for a couple years now. I do a lot of custom fabrication on cars, turbo headers, aluminums piping, chomoly etc. Up until now I used a mig to tack and drove to places for tig work. I was planning on a cheap inverter machine, maybe even a chinese one, but the local pipefitter training place was selling old units and I picked up a super clean Hobart Tigwave 250 and a water cooler for $250 bux. Not exactly a small machine, but I couldnt pass up the deal. However, I have no pedal, No torch, or hose, or leads, and no regulator. I have just the machine and water cooler. Pics below. I see all the torches are rated in amps, and use. Ill never weld over 3/8 alum, and steel with be all average automotive thickness, exhaust, random brackets, mild steel, chomoly, stainless. What are your torch suggestions? Do they come with gas hoses, wiring, and protective sleeve? As far as the pedal goes, I read hobart uses a 10pin, this could be incorrect though, I need to look at the machine. I dont know anything about pedals. I did see this one thoughhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Foot-Con...item519d90ce96 Made by SSC.The machine will do 310amps it claims, what should I be looking at for a ground. Should I make my own? What gauge wire? etcRegulator: Ive only used the one on my mig. Never had one with a flow meter etc. Do I need something special here?Wiring, the machine has 10-3 wiring coming out of it, no plug. Any suggestions here? Also will 100amp breaker be ok, and 10-3 wire to the breaker?The watercooler has no switch or anything, assuming plugged in is on, and I can use the 115v receptical on the back of the machine. Special coolant needed?I could go to my local welding store for answers, but the prices are unreal and the people are not very knowledgeble. Also, Im not looking for High End components, I just want to weld.Thanks for the help guys,Corey
Reply:3/8" alum will max out that machine and probably still want more amps. You'd better get the biggest water cooled torch available if you are serious about that. 1/4" alum will want 250 amps of AC... 3/16" alum about 200 amps and 1/8" alum about 150 amps. Steel takes less amps to weld than alum because alum is such a good heat sink and sucks out heat faster than steel.Tig torches are not all created equal. The Weldcraft torches are rated at 60% duty cycle. So a 200 amp rated torch is 200 amps at 60%. Also most of the Weldcraft torches are rated in DC not AC. AC ratings on these torches are significantly lower. CK torches on the other hand are rated at 100% duty cycle in both AC and DC use. So a 200 amp tig torch that uses the same consumable parts the Weldcraft torch does, would be rated at 100% duty cycle vs only 60%.As far as all the "accessories" for the torch, all depends. Some companies will sell ready to go "kits", while others sell parts individually and sort of expect that you know what you need. Some do both. Best is to ask when ordering.SSC was going to be my recommendation for a pedal. I don't know about the older Hobarts, but the SSC pedals for the Millers are much less expensive, and every one I know who's had one was happy with them. Hobart no longer makes big tigs like this, and hasn't for quite a few years. Your only option for an original Hobart pedal will be used.I don't know if Hobart made any 3 phase only tigs, but you may want to check the tag on the machine and verify it will run on single phase power ( which I assume is what you have). Often 3 phase machines go dirt cheap, because the average user can't use them, hence, no demand. Also check how the machine is set up. The tech school I help out at has machines set up for both 230v and 460v power, depending on where in the lab they are. We needed to change the jumpers on the machines when they rearranged the lab last year.As far as power, 10 ga sounds awful light to me. You can use lighter cord for a welder due to the duty cycle and what the code allows for welders. 100 amps on 10 ga cord doesn't sound right unless it's for very short length. I'd want at least 4 ga if not heavier, and I'd have to go and look up what the "normal " suggested wire is for a 100 amp service. 100 amps sounds a bit on the light side power wise as well. 100amps will definitely run that machine, but IIRC the Millers that are close to that would really want 125 amps to run full power. Keep in mind if the machine is running 3 phase, then "normal" wiring sizes don't necessarily apply.I'm betting that outlet on the back is for the cooler. Usually machines like this have an aux power outlet that's designed to go on and off with the main switch on the machine. That helps eliminate forgetting to turn on the cooler..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Thanks for the response, its a single phase unit according to the training school and manuals Ive seen for them. Ill check to see what voltage its setup for.3/8 is average flange thickness for a throttle body flange, or intake flange, etc. That will be a more rare and smaller job. This will get used most on stainless tubing, sch 10 stainless pipe, mild steel, pipe, and aluminum intercooler tubing, which is probably less than 1/8" thick. The thickest common alum weld I would make would be around 1/8"How many pin connectors are used on the millers pedal?The machine doesnt have any DIN style connectors, Im assuming a terminal is used on the lugs?I see most torches come with the gas/water hoses/wire so thats good. Weld craft has a thing that can pick a torch for you. It listed a wp-18 for 350amp DC 250amp AC at 100% DC. Does that sound reasonable?For my lead that will be grounded to the work piece, what is suggested for that gauge wise?Anyone here of problems with these hobart units? I have one bud with at 350 that looks identical to mine but bigger. Said its very old with no issues. Hoping to have a trouble free setup.
Reply:We use the 18 series water cooled torches at the tech school. They are big and bulky however. ( the reason we have those is that they use the same consumables as the 17 series air cooled torches we use on the XMT's) The 20 series water cooled torches are much more compact and maneuverable. I'd take a 20 over an 18 any day unless I really needed the extra duty cycle.The CK230 torch uses the same parts as the Weldcraft WP 20, but it's a 300 amp 100% duty cycle AC rated torch. much smaller and more compact than the 18 series torches with almost the same duty cycle. The CK 200 is a 250 amp 100% duty cycle AC rated torch that also uses the same parts, but is a bit less expensive.http://www.arc-zone.com/index.php?ma..._908_1550_1038Ground lead you can probably get away with say #2 even at high amps because you won't need a long length. Heavier leads wouldn't hurt, but might be a PITA to have attached to parts directly. You might be able to get away with even lighter cable for daily use, but for high amps you will probably want to err on the side of caution.Yes for a machine like that you would need a power lug to connect to the machine, or get the machine set up to use dinse connectors. I'm not all that familiar with the Hobarts, so I'd need to look in the manual to see how they set  those up.As far as pins on Miller pedals, the current ones mostly use a 14 pin connector. Some of the smaller machines use a different connector like the Maxstar 150 and I believe the older units used a different pedal connection also like the 330 AB/P's. I'm most familiar with the newer Millers that use the 14 pin connectors. Even if the plugs look compatible, you still need to check the pin configurations. I've never had a neeed to deal with the older Hobarts, so I can't say anything on how they are wired without digging out manuals for both machines.The old Hobarts were solid machines. When they got sold, ITW got the Hobart name and the smaller machines, and I forget who got their heavier industrial units. I don't think there's any support for the older Hobarts as far as factory support. Parts if needed would need to be NOS or scavenged from donor machines. I doubt that will end up being a major problem however for someone doing light use with one..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Looks like you have the basics for a good TIG setup there. For the torch, CK makes a "20" style torch rated at 250A continuous. That's the one I'd buy. For the ground, 20' of 1/0 cable and a good bronze ground clamp (Tweco or Lenco).If your machine does have the 10-pin connector, that SSC pedal is the one you want.10/3 is definitely light for that machine, but #4 is overkill given the duty cycle. I'd go with 6/3, less expensive and easier to find. Direct-wire it to the box if possible- a 50A plug will get hot if you're crankin' it, but a plug and socket rated for 100A will cost you more than the welder! The 100A breaker will be fine for that size machine. It does not need 125A unless you are running it on 208V (I assume you are running on 240).JohnA few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps
Reply:Ok, getting some good info here.Looks like Ill go with a 20 series torch. Definitely dont want a bulky torch, I have pretty small hands also.I also think Ill try to wire the machine direct so I wont have money wrapped up in a plug and outlet.Looks like the SSC pedal is the way to go.I'll see if any of the torch dealers can set me up with the lug I need.Any recommendations for a coolant, do you whip up a home brew, or something by the gallon? Straight water Im sure is a no no.Any recommendations for a gas regulator?
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWCK torches on the other hand are rated at 100% duty cycle in both AC and DC use.
Reply:I just report them how they have them listed. I do remember someone here posting up a cutaway of the Weldcrafts vs the CK's and it was pretty easy to see how they get the higher duty cycle with the CK torches the way they were built..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Can anyone tell by the picture, who made this cooler for hobart, really looks like this brand.http://www.toolfetch.com/water-circu...FbQ7OgodODAAogJust wondering incase id need to source any parts
Reply:As far as coolant, buy it from your LWS, double check the cooling coils should be either copper or alum.  buy the coolant that works for your type.Before you load it flush it out good and check the pump for pressure and a clean filter.  On most you will fine two large cap nuts on the pump one is for pressure adj, the other is the filter.
Reply:Originally Posted by neverfastenoughCan anyone tell by the picture, who made this cooler for hobart, really looks like this brand.http://www.toolfetch.com/water-circu...FbQ7OgodODAAogJust wondering incase id need to source any parts
Reply:Well noisy or not, I only paid 250 bux for the welder and cooler haha. The one in the link I posted looks identical, suckers sure arent chreap.
Reply:Picked this up, not sure if you can still see the auctions but its the ck2325SF with the flex head, brand new for 90 bux. He had 2 and the other sold shortly after, probably to someone on here. Ended up getting the ssc pedal also.http://www.ebay.com/itm/200839868167...84.m1497.l2649Arc zone, got me part numbers for the rest I need, now Im just left to wire the thing.Getting a lot of mixed reviews, copper, aluminum, has to be 4ga, has to be 2ga, 6g etc. Trying to track down the EE guy on my campus that does residential stuff, since Im quite new to that. I have 3 garages to put the thing, 2 are wired for 240 but with nothing larger than 10ga I believe and 30amp breakers. The other garage is oldddddddd, glass screw in fuses, no 240, probably not grounded either.
Reply:Originally Posted by neverfastenoughWell noisy or not, I only paid 250 bux for the welder and cooler haha. The one in the link I posted looks identical, suckers sure arent chreap.
Reply:I had an offer to buy everything for 500 the other day before I ordered the torch and pedal. Id think its worth about twice that. Not sure though, I see a ton of welders sit for sale for a very long time. Just 100amp breaker and 4ga wire, should cost me more than the machine did, ughhh
Reply:Here is a link for the manual.http://victortechnologies.com/IM_Upl...430429-127.pdfWeld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Thanks, ill get that printed off.
Reply:Well I got a another insane deal on a CK flex head 300amp torch and picked up that ssc pedal from ebay. Then after about a half gallon of simple green, I have it looking more respectable. Going to try to get my electrician buddy over this weekend to get some power to it. Question though, I have a friend that wants to trade straight up for his lincoln precision 225, its about a year old. Ive been entertaining it because of its more modest size for a home use unit. Worth the trade? As of today, I have almost exactly 500 dollars invested in my entire setup.
Reply:That might sound like a tempting trade, getting a newer unit, but: Your Tigwave has a lot higher max output (310A vs. 225A) and duty cycle 40% at 250A vs. 10% at 225A). It also seems to have several features that the PT doesn't. If it works well and you can squeeze it into your shop, I'd say keep it.JohnA few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps
Reply:I think Im going to hold onto the machine. Maybe eventually Ill track down a pulse box for it and it will basically be up to par and then some compared to the precision tig 225 as far as features go and it will definitely have the duty cycle advantage.