Advice on design/material selection for C Channel Table?

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for the frame i was thinking 2x2x1/8 tubing for the C-channel top 4w x 1.5leg x 3/16 (good size for versatile clamping ? )now im not sure the easiest way to make the attachment point. what im thinking is a couple inches of 2x2tube with a piece of c-channel welded to the bottom or some square tube cut in half ? im just not sure what size materials i should be using to make this go together properly.also when people make draw-bar style receivers for grinders/vises what size tubing is used for a good fit ? Thanks for any advice
Reply:Do a search. Someone on here, if not a couple people, have done tables like this. Probably give you hints on things they like and things they'd do different.200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Here you go.......http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...you-do-179769/200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Originally Posted by bert the welderHere you go.......http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...you-do-179769/
Reply:also when people make draw-bar style receivers for grinders/vises what size tubing is used for a good fit ? If you want to stick with the typical 2" inserts there are several options to consider. Number one being conventional receiver tube, kinda pricey but works good. Something that mimics that is 2.5" tubing/.230 wall/ flash removed. The corners are just slighlty more rounded is all so you may have to watch the physical shape of your insert material. Of course anything without an internal flash is probably going to be just about as spendy as receiver tube too.  One I use off and on is what they call "flash out". Tubing seam welded so the flash is on the outside then that flash is also ground off as part of the process. It's called 2.5"/ flashout/.240 wall. Real rounded corners tho but he!! for stout. It ain't cheap for dern sure. For a general purpose slop fit you can use 2.5"/.185 wall plain jane tubing. Has the flash inside but plenty of room for a 2" inch tube to fall in there. Throw a thin band around it if strength is an issue."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:-i just bought a  5" irwin vise  and want to put a receiver system on my table but aint paying for the matched tubes..am gonna use a piece of tube , maybe some nice heavy  2 x 2 x 1/4  from my drop pile on the vise and build 2  properlysized boxes to receive it.. the boxes need only be a few inches long and a foot apart to stabilize and hold the tool..i will post fotos when i get off my ars....
Reply:When you say "C Channel", are you wanting to use structural hot rolled channel or use sheet steel to make your channel shape?  The reason I ask this is that structural channel will add the weight in a hurry.  Assuming your table is 4' long with (7) pcs. of 4" structural channel on top, your looking at 126 lbs. for C4x4.5lbs/ft channel and C4x5.4lbs/ft. channel; that is just for the top alone.  Also, the flange length for the lightest channel, C4x4.5, is 1-5/8" nominal (1.58" per steel code book, AISC).  Hope this helps?In search of my next cold one,NearBeer
Reply:Thanks for the advice on the 2", ill go with some 2.5" and deal with the slop i guess Originally Posted by nearbeerWhen you say "C Channel", are you wanting to use structural hot rolled channel or use sheet steel to make your channel shape?  The reason I ask this is that structural channel will add the weight in a hurry.  Assuming your table is 4' long with (7) pcs. of 4" structural channel on top, your looking at 126 lbs. for C4x4.5lbs/ft channel and C4x5.4lbs/ft. channel; that is just for the top alone.  Also, the flange length for the lightest channel, C4x4.5, is 1-5/8" nominal (1.58" per steel code book, AISC).  Hope this helps?In search of my next cold one,NearBeer
Reply:Originally Posted by SEARlol, i posted that link yesterday. thats what im doing but dont want to do it as heavy as that one.
Reply:SEAR, for the type of top your considering (channel or flat bar) you'll need to give extra thought to the frame that hold it, expecially the two long horizontal runs. 2x2x.125 tubing won't be sturdy enough to support the weight of the top over 50 inches without webbing or a third leg. The tubing is fine for the verticle legs but you'll have a sagging center by the time your done building it. I would consider using 6 inch channel minumum for the horizontal runs or a larger rectangular box tubing (maybe 6x2x.188). Call your supplier and ask if they have a "drops section" you can rummage through. You can probably find 2 suitable sections of something larger to construct the horizontal support of the table from and buy full length of channel or flat bar for the top. Hope this helps.
Reply:Not to disagree with you, but I think unless he's got cash to burn or is going to be placing a dump truck on his table, 6" channel is overkill, IMHO. My top plates are 126lbs each and there are ten of them. My frame is 3x3x1.4 angle and ain't flexin' no how. If he uses 4-6" channel for the top, it with be lighter ( and probably stiffer). That's why I think angle is the way to go for load handling/ cost. Again, just my two cents. I just hate seeing people over spend and build by a country mile if not needed. But, like I said if you got the dough to blow and want bragging rights, fill your boots!200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:PS...... there are guys on here with fancy weight/strength, size calculating software. Maybe if asked nicely, they could provide some numbers to ball park what you'll need.200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:It all comes down to the question of what the table will be used for and how much weight will typically be on it. I tend to be abusive on my tables, letting them "feel  the load" versus putting it on my back when flipping or rotating things. For a table the size being described a solid flat top 1/4" and thicker will tend to be self supporting and add to the strength of the table. A slotted top (channel or flat bar) adds no rigidity to  the table as load is applied at the center. I strongly recommend a webbing (truss) or angled supports designed under the horizontals to support the center. There's also the likelyness the 2x2x.125 will bow when all the channels or flats are welded to it, crowning the table in the center, which is easily corrected by dropping the first heavy load on the table
Reply:Table top is 38 inches!! That is up very high.Better double check that.I do not really understand that detail.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:38" is a bit high. I think the ones at work are all around 36". Not too short so you can still work with out a sore back and you can still lean and reach across the table easily. Attached ImagesLast edited by oxygen454; 02-19-2011 at 06:16 PM.
Reply:I will make some changes to the design and show front view.if i use 6" channel i will only have to buy 1 length. so it might be cheaper too, ill have to price it out. for the height, that green dude is only 5'10"im 6'6"
Reply:I find a table top height that is 6 inches below elbow height comfortable. My table at work is around 40 inches and Im 6 foot.Ranger 250 GXTSmith Gas Axe
Reply:If your 6'6" then 38" or 40" should work fine.
Reply:Here is the updated design which is now to scale. (made channel 6" too)Couple things im not sure about...C-channel overhang - 6"  Location of supports  1,2 or 3 or ? Height of horizontal braces 2" spacing between c-channels also debating if i should put it on HD casters or not Let me know what you guys think Last edited by SEAR; 02-20-2011 at 12:00 PM.
Reply:Looking good! I would widen the table to 32", reducing the overhang to 2". The use of channel will allow you good clamping ability on the sides of the table, so having 6" overhang is not more useful in this case. Plus widening will make the table much more stable, especially becuase your a tall guy with a 38" table height to match The bracing looks fine, you have it at roughly the center height position.The 2" spacing of the channel is good if your intent is to use C-clamps. You could reduce the spacing if you used a drop bolt/clamp mechanism which would allow you one or more peices of channel across the top. But that's a 6-to-1/half dozen to the other kind of thing. All depends on what you have to work with for clamping.
Reply:AutoCAD tells me that you will have 2" spacing on the last channel on either side. A bit different outcome to your drawing. (using C6x8.2) What program are you using to draw?Also that much weight plus what your building on top of this table would most likely require good heavy duty casters. Attached ImagesLast edited by oxygen454; 02-20-2011 at 04:19 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by oxygen454AutoCAD tells me that you will have 2" spacing on the last channel on either side. A bit different outcome to your drawing. (using C6x8.2) What program are you using to draw?Also that much weight plus what your building on top of this table would most likely require good heavy duty casters.
Reply:Sear, how's the progress?I'm starting a similar project today, with a few variables.  I'm using material from my drop pile, with the exception of the channel which set me back $80 yesterday.  My shop space is limited, so my table will be approximately 50" x 32" AND folding.  I plan to hinge the back side, lag bolt it into the wall 2" x 6'' studs (x4), and use removable 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 1/4" sq. tube front legs.  The top will be mostly the 3" channel, plus a 24" x 24" x 1/4" plate for an integrated solid work area. I should be under 150 lbs. with the top alone.  I have a lot of cutting to do today!I'm curious to see your progress.Miller Dynasty 200DXMillermatic 210 w/ Spoolmate 3035Hypertherm Powermax 380JD Squared Model 32Multiple fabrication tools & equipmentFull Powder Coating Setup
Reply:Originally Posted by millerfabSear, how's the progress?I'm starting a similar project today, with a few variables.  I'm using material from my drop pile, with the exception of the channel which set me back $80 yesterday.  My shop space is limited, so my table will be approximately 50" x 32" AND folding.  I plan to hinge the back side, lag bolt it into the wall 2" x 6'' studs (x4), and use removable 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 1/4" sq. tube front legs.  The top will be mostly the 3" channel, plus a 24" x 24" x 1/4" plate for an integrated solid work area. I should be under 150 lbs. with the top alone.  I have a lot of cutting to do today!I'm curious to see your progress.
Reply:Im 6'2" my table is 40 in. Its comfortable.