Need help with design of adjustable shelving

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As I didn't see a spot for asking design questions, I'll put it here andpost a picture later I have a one car garage which I use for welding and woodwork - so thingsare really cramped. On one wall I want to make something like a woodrack consisting of (this was an initial idea/not sure if strong enough):- 30mm*30mm*3mm square profile vertical sections 1,5m high bolted to thewall- horizontal sections (supports for the wood)approx 350mm long attached as per drawingvia 8mm rod or bolt/nutThe horizontal sections are removable so I can adjust the rack as needed orremove them if there is no wood there or use the wall/vertical sections for a wood press for gluing purposes .Any comments about the design/metal thickness etc. or better ideas Also, one thing is bothering me (not sure how to handle it - my initial ideawas to have the verticals go down to the garage floor (thought it wasmore solid that way) with maybe some SS flat tacked to bottoms so there will be no staining of the tiles.What if the floor is not as level as I expected, how does one copewith that (if you don't have any height adjustment)- do you make a level line on the wall before cutting the verticals and take measurements for each vertical ? Attached Images
Reply:You could also slot those verticals you are bolting to the wall in different height increments. Then on the shelf supports make a hooked hanger that slides in and drops down for quick and easy removal. I made some racks for some scaffolding very similiar to what you have going on here and they worked well.
Reply:you could start with some strut channel, it's already got lots of holes to hang shelves from. Attached ImagesIan TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:Hello Vjeko,I hate to tell you this, but in the US, everyday tons and tons of perfectly fine racks and shelving of the type you're trying to build  are scrapped.I know that was no help, but, if you'll go to Google Images and search "pallet rack" http://www.google.com/images?um=1&hl...g-m4&aql=f&oq= there you'll see about every imaginable design for adjustable shelves.Good Luck
Reply:Guys, I understand the best solution would be to look at the scrap yard /adds- I can findscrapped or second hand stuff here in Croatia also (not so lucky as yousince there's not the population to make such a lot of "rubbish" to choose from )but I haven't come across anything that narrow (35 cm is all the space I need and haveon the wall next to the car ) - will keep looking at the adds for somethingI can chop to fit but in parallel I'd like to just get the plan ready in case I have toroll up the sleaves and do some work  )There's no strut channel here unless I order it (from UK )Blazin, don't follow you completely, any chance of some picture of what you made ?I looked up pallet rack and it was what I expected - closed on the outside i.e.I need the outside open so I can put long boards of wood eg 3,5m in - that's whyI need the cantelever approach- so I was after a bit of feedback from an experthow the cantelever business should look / maybe an idea of metal thickness to use1m3 of wood is max 1200kg, 35 cm wide boards say 30cm high and 3,0m long (assume I put verticals every 0,5m),I get 54kg on each support - it will be less than this all the time)Last edited by vjeko; 03-04-2011 at 01:19 PM.Reason: more info
Reply:I'll take some pictures if the trailer is still on the site I was working at. If I can't get the pictures I'll draw it in paint the best I can.
Reply:Hope this will help you visualize what I was trying to say. Attached Images
Reply:Blazin, thanks, think I got it now. My neighbor, whose a bit more experiencedin metalwork has in the meantime commented that since the wall is made of hollowbricks, it is necessary that the shelving not only have the vertical screwed to thewall but at least the bottom shelf be as in the attached figure to ensureall weight is not on the screws/hollow bricks - any comments ? Attached Images