can anyone watch my AL Tig welds and give advice to improve?

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Here are 3 videos on yourtube and the resulting welds. this is 1x1" sq. Aluminum tube 16 gauge thickness argon gas 1/16th red tungsten. I think the HARDEST part is STARTING the puddle. Once I get it started it, keeping it going is not that hard.  I just tap and dab, tap and dab.However my first tap and dab looks like a big turd!One technique I've gotten OK at is to put a small bit on the left of the butt weld, small bit on the right of the butt weld and then a third drop between the two, heat it up till it bridges the two sides and then I have my puddle to work off of.I need to work on getting welds that don't stick up 1/8" of an inch, and better presentation.Thanks
Reply:You are running way too cold and taking way too long to form a puddle ( almost a minute in vid #1). You are melting the filler with the arc, not the puddle, so you are simply dropping filler on top of the plate. Also I don't really see the arc in any of the videos. It might be due to the angle, but it might also be due to the fact your tungsten is too far away from the work and the arc is spreading out too much. 16 ga 1" tube, you should have been done in less than  5-10 seconds once the puddle formed. Millers calculator shows travel speed on 1/16" alum on a but joint at 10-12" per minute. Honestly I never really saw the puddle form at all. Once or twice I saw the beginnings of a puddle, but it never really materialized, other than the filler melting.If you aren't blowing great big holes in alum that thin, especially on an edge, you are running way too cold at your level. I'd expect to see one edge melt away long before you managed to get the filler in to fill the hole and bridge the gap. But welds are among the hardest to learn. Start off with laps where the lower material will support your puddle and help with heat control some what. Then move on to T joints where you only have one edge to deal with rather than two. Then outside corners, where you have two edges to get to flow, but the V gives you some fudge room to support the puddle, and then finally but joints. If you want a lower profile, you need to weld hot, and or you need to gap or bevel so there's some where for the filler to go. Gaps and bevels on thin material is a PITA though.I will say this is one of the better youtube videos I've seen done as far as showing what was actually going on vs just a big blob of light and zero detail. Part of that might have been the fact I never actually saw the arc in the video so the camera focused on the weld, not the shiny light..Last edited by DSW; 12-07-2012 at 06:29 PM..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I know they look like turds. the last one is probably the best out of the 3 tries. I try to heat up the corner first and then once that gets wet/shinny thenI move over to the other edge which tends to melt under itself, making the gap between the two pieces bigger. so I have to stuff the rod in their. quick.any tips appreciated.
Reply:I don't have time for video's..One picture has sufficed.........Put the damn thing on KILL and then try it.Pedal!Pedal!Pedal!Now change your name until you get it....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Looks like your not dumping enough heat in to start the weld. If you try and play with it the heat just dissipates in to the whole piece . You need to get a faster start than back off a little as you move forward.WelderbobSound Marine Aluminum Boats
Reply:So I should floor the pedal to begin with ,and then back off?P.S.  the videos were made with canon t3i camera manual video mode with welding glass shield in front of camera.  all the auto exposure cameras gave a big white blob with no details.
Reply:The camera made a blob     Sorry, I couldn't help myself I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Originally Posted by AluminumWelderSo I should floor the pedal to begin with ,and then back off?
Reply:Originally Posted by AluminumWelderHere are 3 videos on yourtube and the resulting welds. this is 1x1" sq. Aluminum tube 16 gauge thickness argon gas 1/16th red tungsten. I think the HARDEST part is STARTING the puddle. Once I get it started it, keeping it going is not that hard.  I just tap and dab, tap and dab.However my first tap and dab looks like a big turd!One technique I've gotten OK at is to put a small bit on the left of the butt weld, small bit on the right of the butt weld and then a third drop between the two, heat it up till it bridges the two sides and then I have my puddle to work off of.I need to work on getting welds that don't stick up 1/8" of an inch, and better presentation.Thanks
Reply:Everyone is right on... waaaaay tooo cold.   set around 90-100 amps and use the pedal.  Is it me or do you have pulse turned on?   Turn the damn pulser off if its on..   I got a date with my wife tonite but ill do a video for ya on 16 ga over the weekend if you want me too.   we could even skype and I stick a lens in front of my webcam...   it seems you don't know what you are looking for.  once you understand what you are supposed to be seeing it will be much easier....   I can also duplicate exactly what you are doing in the first video I watched about 30 seconds.   that worked well when I was showing Mike how to tig this week...Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:pedal is set to 75amps. I'll try it higher next time. thanks for the replies everyone.
Reply:I'm not sure what pulse is?  I have the balance set to AUTO. on lincoln percision tig 275.
Reply:Read through everything avalable you can find here : http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ur-skills/tig/Dont read just the tig welding thin aluminum save that for last. In fact read the stuff for a few days make notes reread and than try again with the information after it has a chance to sink in.  Ask questions about what you have read if its not clear after reading it a few times but rip through all the information at least 2 times first. I am not an expert welder and I CAN SAY THAT YOU NEED THE THEORY  OF WHATS GOING ON FIRST.By the way good luck and I bet if you do what I am recommending it will serve you well.Last edited by nikodell; 12-07-2012 at 07:25 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by AluminumWelderpedal is set to 75amps. I'll try it higher next time. thanks for the replies everyone.
Reply:Originally Posted by AluminumWelderI'm not sure what pulse is?  I have the balance set to AUTO. on lincoln percision tig 275.
Reply:Step after reading and building an understanding would be to stand back and step by step set the parameters up on your machine, Make a numbered check list like NASA and check with the board if you have everything correct by listing what you have found and post photos of your setup ie: like tungsten shaped and set in the tig torch. List all settings how far the tungsten should be from the work ect . + work-piece preparation.Last edited by nikodell; 12-07-2012 at 07:41 PM.
Reply:If u have not spent a bunch of hrs running stringer beads like these. (Some Mike did this week) then u r putting the cart before the horse.  1" of weld is not enough to learn how aluminum reacts to the heat of welding Attached ImagesTiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:One last thing read all the safety stuff also!
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawAlso I don't even see a tungsten in the video   its needs to be sticking out about 3/8 of an inch or more past the end of the cup
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmNot that much unless you have to get in a tight corner.  About an 1/8" is perfect.
Reply:I keep on reading about glass lenses, but do not know what they are? anyone care to post a link to one I can buy?
Reply:Originally Posted by AluminumWelderI'm not sure what pulse is?  I have the balance set to AUTO. on lincoln percision tig 275.
Reply:Originally Posted by AluminumWelderI keep on reading about glass lenses, but do not know what they are? anyone care to post a link to one I can buy?
Reply:Which ones you will need will depend on what torch you are using. You will need the gas lens itself and the cup that goes with it. Cups can be used with any similar size gas lens, but the gas lens itself is specific to the size tungsten you are using. IE a #8 cup will fit either on a 3/32" or 1/8" gas lens. The collet will most likely be the same as the one you are using right now.IIRC I believe you have a 17 series air cooled torch if so this would fit your torch and you'd have to get the matching cup in whatever size you needed.http://store.cyberweld.com/wegasleme4se.html.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Don't worry about a gas lens.  It won't do a damn thing for you at this point.  It may help if you were on the edge of perfection.....My name's not Jim....It's a bit comical hearing about gas lenses and what not when the guy can't even form a puddle yet.... ESAB Heliarc 252
Reply:Just a thought.  Could it be possible that the tungsten is contaminated and or not balled.  I'm just sayin'.
Reply:No offense AW, but you really should take a TIG class.Buy American, or don't whine when you end up on the bread line.
Reply:You are almost there. Like said before, turn that machine up to full amps and stomp on the pedal. If you burn a hole in it right away, back off the pedal.Pull out your tungsten to at least 50% of the inner diameter of the cup. And you are doing fine without the gas lens.Last edited by shovelon; 12-07-2012 at 11:33 PM.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FadO0hqTaN0[/ame][ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ay_oYg0LUo[/ame][ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTZfDndPkl0[/ame][ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpxzVq6YsoM[/ame]
Reply:I am very surprised you actually started welding two pieces together before learning to place any weld beads. That was my impression of your videos.Practice makes perfect, This might help you as it helped me. http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...-aluminum.htmlLast edited by vicrc; 12-08-2012 at 04:55 AM.
Reply:Looks like you were getting it in the last video.Like everyone else said, you're wayyyyyy too cold.  You cannot add filler until a puddle forms on the metal you're welding.  Then you slide the filler rod into the base of the puddle at a very flat angle, like 15-30* from the plane of the material you're welding.  With the proper torch angle, you will be able to push the puddle and keep the filler rod under the Argon cloud without it melting until you dip into the puddle.A gas lense is a piece the screws into your torch where the normal collet holder is.  It's a series of screens that makes the gas flow straighter so you get better coverage at a lower flow rate.  You can have a greater stick out because of it.  You can get a set on eBay for under $20 including the alumina cups which will be different than your regular ones.You really should get a piece of 3/16 aluminum plate and start stacking beads like crazy.  You will get a feel for things.I'll post a pic of my practice plate when I get a chance.  The pits on it are from it being upside down on concrete when I banged the bow out of it with a lump hammer.  it's alot of fun to just stack beads.  You can play with your settings, experiment with travel speed, amps etc...Last edited by Drf255; 12-08-2012 at 05:10 AM.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:"You don't need to have someone post a link for a gas lens. Just go search for it. " The benefit of a forum is people give you reasons why a gas lens or something is good to buy. And after researching it and getting feedback it doesn't sound necessary at this point. also I looked at my manual again and I don't have the advanced control panel so no pulse function on this baby."No offense AW, but you really should take a TIG class."the local community college's tig class is full. I'm not going to wait 5 months for the next semester.I'm having the lincoln rep come out next week and another guy I hired that has the same machine come out as well to help train. The first guy I hired to train wasn't that good. Making beads on a straight plate is something we can do. butt welding needs more practice.Last edited by AluminumWelder; 12-08-2012 at 08:34 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by AluminumWelderMaking beads on a straight plate is something we can do. butt welding needs more practice.
Reply:Originally Posted by AluminumWelder The benefit of a forum is people give you reasons why a gas lens or something is good to buy.
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawwe could even skype and I stick a lens in front of my webcam...
Reply:a very good example of what you should see at 5:55. You'll see the cleaning action make the area frosty. Then once the base metal melts, you'll see a shiny puddle.[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KWdXUt3Bv8[/ame]Fantastic arc shots right from the start.And an explanation of a gas lens.[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HY30i_t1Da8[/ame]
Reply:Again thanks for everyone who responded. So I turned amps up to 95 and pretty much floored the pedal and welds are looking better.# 1 through #3 show the my welds are a little high#4 I took the tig torch and reheated the weld to make it flatter#5 is a commercial quality weld that I want mine to look like. My guess is I need to be putting in the filler rod in at a lesser angle and I need to practice more. My current welds are probably around 1/16th to 3/32nd above the base metal. Maybe my filler rod (1/16th diameter is too fat?)The commercial quality weld is only probably 1/32nd above base metal. Any tips to get a flatter weld are appreciated. last photo shows my set up for making the 2x3' AL framesLast edited by AluminumWelder; 12-08-2012 at 11:30 AM.
Reply:"One other thing you'll find if you do a bit of research is that red tungsten is not generally recommended for aluminum. Go with green (pure) or blue (lanthanated)LOL, I've seen green, red and blue recommended on this very forum. Suffice it to say all 3 are doable, seems to be a personal preference thing. After my research I found out that it is a topic no one agrees upon.
Reply:Originally Posted by AluminumWelderThe commercial quality weld is only probably 11/32nd above base metal. Any tips to get a flatter weld are appreciated. last photo shows my set up for making the 2x3' AL frames
Reply:Originally Posted by AluminumWelder"One other thing you'll find if you do a bit of research is that red tungsten is not generally recommended for aluminum. Go with green (pure) or blue (lanthanated)LOL, I've seen green, red and blue recommended on this very forum. Suffice it to say all 3 are doable, seems to be a personal preference thing. After my research I found out that it is a topic no one agrees upon.
Reply:these are at 105ampsThe first half inch seemed fine, but kept on blowing it out towards the last part. My question is do these look better than the 95map ones? Do they look HOT enough? frankly the 95amp welds are plenty strong enough and were easier to control.IS this what the inside of the tube should look like? A little bit of bubbling out? Someone told me that was bad. My 95amp welds did NOT have any back bubbling, the 105amp welds do.
Reply:With aluminum, you start hot on the pedal, but as you've just learned, you'll have to back off on the pedal as you progress or face the consequences.  You don't get a log of wiggle room between melting point and boiling point with aluminum.Not as easy as it looks, huh?Lincoln Idealarc 250 (circa 1962)Lincoln Weldpak 155 w/Mig KitLincoln Squarewave TIG 175
Reply:"Not as easy as it looks, huh? "Especially when the whole weld takes less than 10 seconds. By the time I ramp up to full heat I have to back down. So you think the 105amps are better than my 95amp welds and I just need to practice backing off the pedal?
Reply:Looks to me like you need to weld the other direction.  That would help a little to reduce blowing through.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Originally Posted by AluminumWelder"Not as easy as it looks, huh? "Especially when the whole weld takes less than 10 seconds. By the time I ramp up to full heat I have to back down. So you think the 105amps are better than my 95amp welds and I just need to practice backing off the pedal?
Reply:Originally Posted by AluminumWelderIS this what the inside of the tube should look like? A little bit of bubbling out? Someone told me that was bad. My 95amp welds did NOT have any back bubbling, the 105amp welds do.
Reply:Originally Posted by dsw... I usually tell students if they can handle the material with their bare hands, it's cool enough to make the next weld...
Reply:First off, I have a limited amount of TIG experience so I don't have much input on that, but I find it interesting that running beads on a plate has been recommended several times and yet I have yet to see it. This is where you would start in a proper welding class and then move to joint welds after you learn puddle control. You are putting the cart before the horse. Try running stringers on a plate and you just might have that "Ahaa" moment when the advice given by the people here that have the experience all of a sudden makes sense.My $.02.Millermatic 200Hobart Handler 120Victor O/A & Ramco BandsawLincoln 225 ACSnapOn AD HoodMiller XMT304/22AHypertherm Powermax 1650 G3Lincoln Idealarc DC600 w/Extreme 12 VSMiller Digital Elite "Joker"