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Goodafternoon, everyone!!So, heres a little video on troubleshooting stick welds I just thought I'd share with everyone, thought it might help someone out Back in like 2009 when I was playing around with my old AC-225 out in the garage, I didn't know what I was "supposed" to be doing with it... I had seen pictures online of good welds, but I had no idea how to get my molten blobs, to look like that.Basicly, this video talks about a half-dozen of the most common problems new-er stick welders have (based on my learning experiences ), it shows what a problematic weld looks like, talks about what causes it, and explains how to fix that individual problem...It covers:Long ArcDrag Angle IssuesSlag Entrapment IssuesToo "hot"Too "cold"Too "fast"Too "slow"Anyway, I hope y'all enjoy it, it was pretty fun to make lol:[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akvv4ApYMVE[/ame]Have a nice weekend, everyone [Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:Spatter bud not SPLATTER! I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Not bad there Lanse. A few thoughts that might make a better video for you to think about.Take a look at the "test" I did for Rick V in this thread showing arc length.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=58537It shows much better some of what happens with a short arc ( cold weld, vs a normal arc length, and too long an arc length ( too "hot" a weld. Also the way the slag appears, hard to remove on the short and long arcs, vs the way the slag just falls right off, or curls up on it's own, showing you have your settings correct. I typically run this demo for students just starting T joints running stick, so they understand that running a super tight arc will turn down the "heat" causing a "cold" weld, while increasing arc length will turn up the "heat" and give them undercutting.Next travel speed. With students I usually suggest they look at how long the weld they made was and how much rod is left over, to get a feel for travel speed. On average you get 6-8" of weld per rod with about 2" of stub left. If you get more weld, say 12-16" travel speed is too high, less weld, say only 3", travel speed is too slow. Bead length or extra rod is easy for them to see and understand. Also if you show the V shape to the bead as an indicator of too fast a travel speed, vs the nice even C or "dime" shape for the correct travel speed, this usually helps students learn what to look for in the bead profile..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I have always ran hot with the flux of the rod touching the plate, if you run enough heat you will not have a "cold" weld. It was just thursday I was at work welding with some 1/8" 7018s at 150 amps.None of my welds looked cold and the best thing about running a tight arc length is it helps you become more steady. Everyone I have seen running any arc lenght ends up with lots of spatter.I hate spatter.....The fact that you can run a 7018 touching is even in the "Bible" aka Lincolns good book...Journeyman / Red Seal Welder (What a useless test)Miller CST 280Miller XMT 350Miller 12vs XtremeEvolution Evo 28 mag drillEvolution 380 Dry Cut saw |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:39:11