Reese dual cam question

admin

I have a 31 travel trailer that has a Reese dual cam sway control system on it.  I did the install myself and I followed the directions to the letter.  When I got home from camping this last weekend I noticed that one of the bolts holding the bracket to the boxed trailer frame was loose (stripped out).  My question is what are my options for repairing this?  This seems to be a common issue with this setup.  Some people say drill thru the frame and use long bolts with lock washers and nuts.  I don't like that idea because it can crush the tubing.  Others say do the same but use a thick backing plate to avoid crushing the frame.  Some say to just weld it to the frame.  I am just looking for your opinions here.  I am not a professional welder (and I haven't stayed at a Holiday Inn Express lately ) so I would not even dream of tackling such a job if that is the repair of choice.  I just want to be sure that my family and the people around me are safe.  I have contacted Reese tech support also but so far nothing.  The picture is not mine but it’s what mine will look like if I continue to use it as is.  Thanks in advance. Attached Images
Reply:We had the same issues with the dragster trailer when we were racing..Drill thru the frame and use grade 8 bolts with a 1/4" thick backing plate...nuts and lockwashers..Don't worry about crushing the tubing...Unless you have torque wrench arms..Make sure to do both sides....zap!Last edited by zapster; 06-01-2011 at 03:58 PM.I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I'd say use a grade 8 bolt with a crimp top nut instead of a lock washer.  The crimp top nuts are more secure than a lock washer, the grade 8 bolt would be better than welding that IMHO.--Wintermute"No man's knowledge here can go beyond his experience." - John Lockewww.improvised-engineering.comManufacturer Agnostic:Blood----------Sweat---------Tears----|------------------|----------------|----Lincoln Red, Miller Blue, Esab Yellow
Reply:Reese just sent an email asking me to call tech support.  He advised me to flip the brackets from side to side and put the self tapping screws on the inside of the frame.  I am not a fan of this idea becasue I am betting that it will happen again and I won't be able to see it.  His opinion of drilling thru and using bolts and a backer plate was the holes could egg out over time.  He also mentioned having it welded.  I may have to look for a local welding shop and see what they think.  Any advice on choosing a shop?  Or better yet is there anyone in the area that would like to take this on?  Be careful pics of your work will be posted if I go that route.  I will even offer up my welder to do the work with.  LincolnPowerMig 300or a Buzzbox.
Reply:if the holes will egg out over time when bolted through the entire frame, then they're guaranteed to fail using self tapping bolts.  Welding in this case I would put as a last resort.I'd go with Zaps suggestion, the only thing I would change is using a crimp top nut instead of a lock washer and standard nut.--Wintermute"No man's knowledge here can go beyond his experience." - John Lockewww.improvised-engineering.comManufacturer Agnostic:Blood----------Sweat---------Tears----|------------------|----------------|----Lincoln Red, Miller Blue, Esab Yellow
Reply:Zap / Wintermute don't get me wrong I am reading your posts and I have also thought that going with a backer plate and bolts would be a good plan, but I want to explore all of my options first.  When it comes to the safety of my family and others I don't want to screw around.  If I could afford it I would just trade it in and get a new one, because this is going to bug me every trip, wondering if I did the right thing.
Reply:I figured you were reading them .  I'm just saying that I think that bolting it will be a better and stronger fix than welding it.  The frame material looks pretty thin, the HAZ is going to be an area where there's a high likelihood of breakage due to the thin material and the stress that will be applied.  Even if the bolt holes ovaled out (I doubt they will with a 1/4" backing plate) then they'll at least still be connected if ovaled.  If system is under enough strain to oval out holes in 1/4" plate, I just don't see a welding on material as thin as that frame holding up to it.--Wintermute"No man's knowledge here can go beyond his experience." - John Lockewww.improvised-engineering.comManufacturer Agnostic:Blood----------Sweat---------Tears----|------------------|----------------|----Lincoln Red, Miller Blue, Esab Yellow
Reply:If the factory is supplying self tapping screws for this application, I don't think there is much of a need for high strength hardware or a backing plate.I would just through bolt it with decent hardware and some sort of lock washer, nyloc, whatever.mens agitat molem
Reply:That picture isn't my frame but I will bet mine is about the same thickness going by memory.  I guess if I bolt thru and if they do egg out I can always have welding as a backup plan.  I did think about putting a tight fitting sleeve around the bolt that would go thru the frame to keep it from crushing.  But this would require a bigger hole so I think I will toss that idea out.  As for force applied, I am no expert but I know when the 1200 lb torsion bars pop out of the cam while turning the entire campground jumps and people ask what broke.  I went with this system because it is one of the best systems out there and it does work well when all the bolts are there...  I am leaning toward drilling thru and using a backing plate along with grade 8 bolds and some sort of a locking nut.  I like nylocs but I don't know how they rate in comparison with lock washers or crimped nuts.  I know in the past I have not had good luck with crimped nuts on axle ubolts.  I had a couple break the ubolts before they were tight.
Reply:Just drill the right size hole for the bolt, and get bolts with a shoulder long enough that the threads are not wearing on the hole in the frame, and you will be fine.I seriously doubt the need for grade 8 hardware, but it can't hurt, and they often have some kind of anti-corrosion coating.I would just use decent quality grade 5 bolts and rattle can them quickly. Then just regular inspection and maintenance.edit:Just noticed, in the picture there is a single grade 5 bolt used as a pivot, that bolt will shear long before two bolts of equal strength in the frame fail. Or the frame itself is likely the weakest link.Last edited by ncfh; 06-01-2011 at 05:10 PM.mens agitat molem
Reply:How thick is the frame material? Am I correct that these bolts are 1/2-13 thread forming? That material appears way too thin to form good threads with this size. You do not have enough thread engagement. I suspect REESE assumed the frame would be thicker. I'm surprised you managed the 50 lbs of specified torque without stripping them.I'd drill trough the frame and bolt it. Because of the shape of the part you may not have the space for a backing plate.The engineer at REESE made some dangerous assumptions in specifying these bolts. Attached Images
Reply:I know those screws are used on other sway controls models as well, I don't care for them personally. I have seen welded plates. They will hold, but removal is not so clean if that becomes necessary. I vote as the others say, through bolt with locknuts. I do not think a backing plate would be essential. Add the largest flat washer that will fit, you'll be fine.City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Originally Posted by MichgrizZap / Wintermute don't get me wrong I am reading your posts and I have also thought that going with a backer plate and bolts would be a good plan, but I want to explore all of my options first.  When it comes to the safety of my family and others I don't want to screw around.  If I could afford it I would just trade it in and get a new one, because this is going to bug me every trip, wondering if I did the right thing.
Reply:I would drill an oversized hole and weld a pipe/tube thru the frame and use bolts and lock nuts. The tube will stop you from crushing the frame and keep the hole from going oblong. Make sure the pipe/tube fits the bolt. (If the hole you drill fits the pipe tight you could probably get away without welding it.)Last edited by woodweld1; 06-02-2011 at 12:09 PM.