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7018 .125" http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...0&l=607e6911a97024 .125" http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...0&l=e7a582a449I have 2-1/2 weeks under me so far. This was my first test. 2 trys at 7018 and 2 trys at 7024, 6 stringers in the 2F position. This was also my 2nd day using the 7024 'jetrods' so i was surprised at not only how quickly i picked up on the new rods, but how much they helped my 7018 beads. I planned on this being another practice plate but the instructor told me it looked okay enough to grade me out on it, and to start practicing my verticals again with 7018. Im enjoying the website and i cant wait to show you guys some more stuff when i figure out what i am doing. I need all the advice i can get please!
Reply:They look nice.I tend to weld slow, and angle the rod more to keep the puddle from overruning the arc. I get a deeper "v" shaped ripple in the finished weld. I'm not the best welder on the planet, and I have to take my time.What hard distinct ripples you have will go away as you become happier with progression and feeding the rod into the puddle in a steady manner. Took me yrs to get to where you are now"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Thank you. Ive already come to notice that when i practice hot and fast, my cooler and slower beads turn out much more consistent. If im running near the maximum end of the rated amperage it seems one little blip or shake runs the bead entirely off course. If im running closer to the lower rated heat you really have to hold that stick in the wrong place for a bit to really put some metal where you dont want it. The little things like rod and travel angle paired with arc length im trying to pretend its second nature, but its definately something i have to stay focused on. Someone told me every welder perceives the art in their unique way but Im not sure exactly what my perception is on it.
Reply:7018 .125" 3F vertical uphill http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...0&l=2abad47a8fHey im back with a few pics on my verticals progress. I gotta say this is less than satisfactory, but again the instructor insists im not doing all that bad. Thankfully all the bookwork and studying kept me in the right direction, but that doesnt mean my hand eye coordination is worth a flip. If i could change any one thing right now it would be my arc control... or gravity itself! I also realized the importance of not running a hot start setting of +10, jesus. On my second try i put a marble sized chunk of filler down on my tie in when i was 2-3 inches from being finished. I need all the tips and tricks i can get, PLEASE. I dont want to be like the other students. Theorycrafting is working much better than trial and error. This was also run at 101amp
Reply:Theoretically you have a straight line on either side of a weld, be it a V groove or soap stone, whatever. Optimum bead width uphill w/LH 1/8th is 1 1/2 times the width of the rod. As you stack your bead uphill, center the rod over the theoretical line for a long count of one, or a quick count of two. (NOT 2 seconds!) Do not pause at center of weld, keep stacking from side to side. Once you have established a rhythm and done it a few times it's a very easy bead to make, just don't get it to hot by going too slow, you want a good tie in where the lines are on either side of the weld. This is what has always worked for me, practice will make it work for you too! Good Luck! 7024, jet rod is for flat welding only and the flux will slay your welds w/o the correct amps and rod angle. I haven't ran any jet rod in 20 years, so I'll let someone else give you pointers for it.Last edited by gizzardgutz; 05-20-2010 at 07:25 PM.Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money. -Cree Indian ProverbSA 200 LincolnVictor Torches |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:37:15