really stupid question

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I am getting my first welder and am trying to figure out how much I need to budget for materials and consumables, especially SMAW rods.  So, approximately how many rods come in a pound?  I understand different widths and types will have different numbers but any info would be greatly appreciated.ThanksJosh
Reply:1 pound is not very much at all. Differences in rod diameter and flux will determine how many per pound, but I would guess a dozen give or take, but no more than two dozen.I like to buy at least 5 pounds of the common rod types when I do.Last edited by tanglediver; 05-19-2010 at 11:03 PM.City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Welcome to the forum.What part of the world do you live in; do you have access to a good welding shop or bookstore? If so, I'd suggest picking up a copy of the Lincoln "The Procedures Handbook of Arc Welding" which actually has much information like that inside. A good library also will have other books which are worth spending a few (hundred) evenings with. Not as good as apprenticing under an expert, but sometimes better than waiting for a quick reply here.BTW, you can edit your profile to add your location and other relevant information, which sometimes is useful to people replying.
Reply:i would say that in smaw, I would start off with 3/32 7014 or 6013 and always 6011.  you can buy a 5 lb box of each or a 10 lb tin of each.  If you are planning on practicing alot, go ahead and buy a 50lb tin/box.  It is cheaper in the long run, I have found.The 6013 and the 7014 are the easiest rods to run and restrike.  The have a lot of flux on the weld so when you weld with them, go slow and watch the metal and not the flux.  It takes practice to tell the difference.although you didn't ask about welders, I would spring for the ac/dc, but if the money isn't there, then don't fret about have only the ac.  They are cheaper.  An ac unit is just fine and will weld all the rods you will need to use.  Lincoln, Miller, and Hobart crackerboxes are all just about the same.  the Lincoln is a tap unit being the only major differennce.  The other two have higher amperages on the dc.  They are all about equal enough not to worry about them so get the one you like and don't look back.Material would be any scrap you can find, beg, borrow, or steal.  Seriously, I would practice on scrap iron till I had a project.  Your project will determine the material cost.  I can't understand buy new metal to just run practice beads on.  Now the only exception is specialty metal you can't find scrap for and you need to practice on it.  Save all you metal from you projects to practice on.Last edited by Scott Young; 05-20-2010 at 07:29 AM.
Reply:Perfect, thanks a lot guys I really appreciate it.  I already have millers stuff but will was not impressed with their SMAW material.  I will order Lincolns as well.  I live in the Texas panhandle and really wish there was a night class or something that I could take to learn.  However the nearest school is about an hour away and it is a year and a half program that does not allow for classes here and there.  The program is an all or nothing ordeal.  That, unfortunately, is not an option with a business, house, wife and 2 kids to maintain and take care of.  If anyone else has been in my shoes I'd love to hear what process you went through while learning to weld.Josh
Reply:Try these videos.  I have seen the smaw and they are good.  I have heard the others are just as good.http://www.weldingvideos.com/
Reply:Thanks Scott, I've got both those videos and have watched them.  Actually a lot of info that I was really looking for and will definitely allow me to identify what I'm doing wrong when I start.  Anyone else?  Welder should be arriving tues/wed of next week.  I'm going to burn through several hundred rods before I evaluate how I'm doing.  I hope at that time to fee comfortable with electrode gap and speed.
Reply:Per the McKay catalog; Mild steel electrodes per pound.Type     3/32     1/8     5/326010      30       17       126011      25       15       116013      25       15       107014      24       13        97018      32       15       10I just listed the most common types and sizes."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:For the record you get to deposit about 70% of a stick electrode in the actual plate, that means 10 pounds of rod will get you about 7 pounds of weld depending on how you are with your stubbies and the rod size.  If you think about it a pound of metal isn't that much in terms of volume.   A 50 pound tin will last quite a while and shouldn't hurt the budget too much.  Only time we buy 10 pound tins is when it's a speciality alloy ($$$$) and it would be murder to buy them in 50 or 100 pound units.  I mean some of the rod is $100/pound!Welding EngineerCertified Scrap Producer
Reply:WoW stick-man and Meta now that is some really great info and really exactly what I was looking for.  Now I just hope someone else will be able to find this kind of info when searching for it as I searched prior to posting and could not find anything.  Last question, and no I haven't searched this as I'm sure its posted, but anyone have advice on rod brand or does it really make a difference?  No need in buying rod twice as expensive just for a name, if you know what I mean.  Or better yet does anyone have an input on rod brands to stay away from?
Reply:Also wish I could edit the title of this thread so others with the same questions would easily see where to come.  Or maybe I'm the oddball and asking obscure questions!!
Reply:I started with some crap, then I tried Mcay and still use it. I don't think you will go wrong with McKay, Hobart, Lincoln or Esab. Nowadays my LWS is not stocking as much product, so I might start using some Lincoln, because that is their main line. Alot of guys here stay away from Radnor rods, (Airgas' house brand). If you are just starting, I would just buy 5 or 10 lb. cans. That way they stay fresh, and you get to go shopping more often. Start out with some 6013 and 7014, 3/32 or 1/8."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:Forney can be very reasonable too, if available in your area.  It's a fairly decent rod"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by Zman0690Also wish I could edit the title of this thread so others with the same questions would easily see where to come.  Or maybe I'm the oddball and asking obscure questions!!
Reply:thanks Oldiron I'll check it out, BTW farmersamm the only LWS within 25 miles is an old farmer coop type place and the only rod they carry is forney.  They want $20-$24 for 10lbs and was not sure if it was a good rod for the $ especially since I see bulk rod for sale on ebay for aprox $1 per LB.  I purchased a rod tube and some hammers by forney and they seem to be good quality, better than the HF stuff I looked at.  Thanks all who have contributed, its really getting me going in the right direction.
Reply:some feel the best process for learning is oa gas welding because  it gives you a better sense of the puddle... if  you havea torch  consider learning some gas welding...
Reply:Well I thought about learning that way, I just didn't want to drop another $400-$500 on a OA setup that, in all honesty, I don't think I would use much after I get a plasma.  Another thing which swayed me away was my small shop space that is invading me garage, which is making the "boss" ohh so happy.
Reply:try to stay away from the coop rods that lay out in the open for god only knows how long. Try to stick with a quality rod from esab, or hobart, or even lincoln. The better quality rod will sure make the learning process easier and makes a heck of a lot better weld when you are doing a project. Keep em dry. get a metal 5 gallon bucket with lid and wire up a 25 watt bulb socket inside the lid to keep out moisture if you are storing a bunch of rods or the plastic tubes with thread on lids if you are storing a few.Last edited by CarlH; 05-23-2010 at 05:30 PM.Reason: spelling