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I was practicing spot welds today, in preperation for my next level which will be butt welds on rectangular tubing. Every once in awhile I would have a clean cut wire, a clean tip, hold the torch in the exact same fashion, but when I pull the trigger I would get an initial bang flash and the wire would vaporize up into the copper insert (sometimes requiring me to pull it out with my MIG pliers.This is 0.030 wire on 11 gauge 2x1 A500 steel tube with the Miller 211 set at 65/4.5Gas is 75/25 set at 25 CFH.Doing something wrong here or does this happen to everyone?
Reply:Sounds like lack of wire speed.
Reply:Originally Posted by BrianCSounds like lack of wire speed.
Reply:I think it's the phase of the moon. I experienced the same back in school facing a groove gun positioned hood down deep breath squeeze trigger BANG! Very infrequent and totally random, but while annoying, any idea of troubleshooting was totally out the window. Quite different from burn-back as when you run out of wire there's just a soft poof accompanying a bright "flame" of same duration as welding stops. Just one of those things I guess.Last edited by wirehead; 02-13-2013 at 04:14 PM.XMT304 (school)SP125+ (home)HF 4x6 BandsawGood judgement comes from experience and much of that comes from bad judgement.
Reply:Also if you have your gun lead kinked you put a greater demand on the feed rolls. With older problematic machines I pull the wire with the cutters before snipping to take up the slack. I hold the gun with a little bit longer stickout to start. This way the wire feeder is rolling before the arc is struck and the wire has full momentum.
Reply:For me it must have been just the tension on the roller as I welded hundreds of starts today and no flash-bang-wire gone. I had the tension really light when I was using the 0.023 wire, but today I had it set much firmer with the 0.030 and everything was awesome. I kind of hope I will be able to weld the 16 gauge with the 0.030 too, so I don't have to fool with the too flimsy 0.023. If I have to go back to 0.023 for anything, I am going to get a liner meant for 0.023 and see if that helps.
Reply:IGBT I got a MM211 about 8 mo. ago and have run nothing but .023 with the original liner. (working on a 67 goat) Not one birdsnest. Now that you got the flashing and popping figured out by getting the wire tension dialed in, you will probably have no trouble with the .023 wire and liner later on. You will enjoy the machine
Reply:Originally Posted by AlbieIGBT I got a MM211 about 8 mo. ago and have run nothing but .023 with the original liner. (working on a 67 goat) Not one birdsnest. Now that you got the flashing and popping figured out by getting the wire tension dialed in, you will probably have no trouble with the .023 wire and liner later on. You will enjoy the machine
Reply:There is about 1/4" -5/16" where the top wheel and bottom grooved wheels meet to push the wire. The wire is positioned in the innermost groove. I'm sure you know that the wheel can be flipped around for the different size wire. Hope this helps you out.
Reply:Yes, I know the grooves are different for 0.023 vs 0.030/0.035.Dang, I must just have a faulty liner. Well, it works with 0.030 so I guess I won't bother taking it back. I may buy the 0.023 lliner just to see if that helps.I am able to weld 16 gauge with the 0.030 by using autoset and the 18 gauge setting, so I am *ok* for now.
Reply:Originally Posted by IGBTI was practicing spot welds today, in preperation for my next level which will be butt welds on rectangular tubing. Every once in awhile I would have a clean cut wire, a clean tip, hold the torch in the exact same fashion, but when I pull the trigger I would get an initial bang flash and the wire would vaporize up into the copper insert (sometimes requiring me to pull it out with my MIG pliers.This is 0.030 wire on 11 gauge 2x1 A500 steel tube with the Miller 211 set at 65/4.5Gas is 75/25 set at 25 CFH.Doing something wrong here or does this happen to everyone? |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:36:51