Fronius Tig Comfort Stop

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You know when TIG welding without a torch switch or foot pedal, you have no current control and you have to break the arc at full power to end the weld, making it difficult to fill the crater and such.  This power supply is configured to downslope the current at the end the weld when you momentarily pull a long arc, apparently triggered by increased voltage.  Pretty cleaver I say.
Reply:[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3vBH59VF0s[/ame]Miller 330 a/bp water cooledI believe in gun control, I hold my gun with two hands.  If you want to know why, click here.Buy American or bye America.
Reply:Good info on the 2T/4T torch switch and power supply with upslope and downslope,
Reply:My inverter works a bit different, my lincoln transformer the same.On the inverter a monentary press to start 2t= any percentage of main amps with variable upslope.The next momentary press upslopes to 4t.Any quick press after that switches between 2t and 4t settings without any up/downslope.To shut down, press for one second, or press and hold for any length of time from either 2t or 4t and release for downslope and shutdown.The Everlast may do the same but he did not demonstrate it (maybe he ran out of time due to the 5 minutes of talking at the start of the vid).Matt
Reply:The miller gas driven welders like the 302 trailblazer have lift arc TIG with auto stop and auto crater.  Basically, without a switch, it senses when you are about to stop and ramps down the current slowly.http://www.millerwelds.com/tough/autocrater.htmI believe this is a relatively recent feature on Millers - last 3 years or so.Con Fuse!Miller Dynasty 350Millermatic 350P-Spoolmatic 30AMiller Multimatic 200Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3Miller Maxstar 200DX
Reply:I was experimenting with using the torch trigger on my everlast Super200P today.  (Doing some out of position welding on auto body patch panels.)  I realized my welder doesn't have an upslope knob (or at least, couldn't figure out how the upslope was determined or "set",  not quite same as pre-flow...)  4T put me off, I just plain wasn't used to the torch going on at full heat when I released the trigger (seemed kind of... uncontrollable to me, and I had limited patience to fuss with it.)I did make good use of 2T mode to do all my out of position welding, however.  It does have a variable downslope knob, which I set to about 2-3 seconds.  Then, I can reduce the heat input (like trying to fill a hole in a section of the panel that had been thinned considerably by rust  ).  I controlled the heat when pressing down and releasing the trigger, about twice per second, by varying the ratio of "pressed" versus "released" time (IE: spending more time on pressed and less on released would get more heat, or vice versa would let the weld bead cool more.)  Using this "manual pulse width modulation", I could control and feather the heat as desired quite well.  It also gave somewhat of a manual, very smoothly varying pulse effect, that seemed kind of useful too to manipulate the puddle as I wished.  I could also make it pulse more (longer press/releases) or more of a constant heat (rapid press/releases).  It felt I had heat control almost as good as a footpedal with this technique, but the downside was I had to hold the torch with one finger being completely free to press/release the switch.