7018 problem!

admin

First of all..I love 7018! The weld beautifully for me in all positions..flat vertical overhead!My problem is every now and again when I strike an arc the rod will stick..it's like the rod just gets stuck in the puddle and then suts out and I have to pull the rod from the steel and then flux start cracking off the rod and a bit of a mess! Then I have to get a new rod and start over! This is with the first strike of a new rod ! So should I just start moving straight away once I get an arc! I usually have my Amps set around 125..dc positive 1/8th esab rod!Only for that..I love burning them!
Reply:You maybe running a little too close or your welder could be off. Try increasing arc length or upping the amps
Reply:Better strike technique or more amps.
Reply:I concur on modifying the strike technique.  If you often run other rods which are easy to start, you might have some problems getting the 7018 going using the same style as for easier rods.  Using the easier starting rods much just keeps you from being on your best 7018 game all the time.  At least that's what I tell myself.I have found that a "match scratch" style works best for me with 7018.I learned a long time ago that I can't just jab the 7018 straight in and expect an instant arc start.  No, I have to use a sideways sort drag or whip motion to get me an arc start.As to how I handle the rod when I inevitably do get one stuck is don't even try to break it loose by force.  I just get another rod (or maybe a used stub) and strike an arc with it an run right up to the stuck rod while I pull on the stuck rod with my other hand.When the rod melts free I have it in my hand and it is still worth using.   If you use a new rod to do this just resume running your bead and save the stuck rod for later.
Reply:If I were you I would put the 7018 in the kitchen oven at 300 degrees for two or three hours. In my experience 7018 rod isn't dry when it comes from the factory. I had the same problem as you and after I dried them in the oven they ran perfect.You might want to ask the wife's permission first, I didn't and payed the price.Good luck and have fun.
Reply:YEP! Probably damp.Thats when I notice they get stickt.Occasionally AMPS too low but at 125, I'd say dampness is the problem.
Reply:Scratch the rod somewhere ahead of where the actual start of the bead will be, then once the arc is established.....long arc it back to the place where you want to start welding.  I dunnoo if code welding allows this, but if non-code you're good. Keep the long arcing in the weld path, and you ought to be good I'd think. If a rod sticks, immediately release it from the rod holder instead of letting the machine short out, it's easier on the machine.  Break the rod free by wiggling it.  Restart the arc, and long arc it until you burn it back to where the flux is unbroken, then weld away.I've had rods fresh out of the can do this just as much as ones that have been laying around for a while."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Happens to me too from time to time, with various rods.I always chalked it up to mass production.  With so many made, bound to be a couple that mis-fire?Be interesting to know if it happens to the pros on WW that weld all day, every day.Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:you mean i been doin it wrong?  mine all stick..usually calling  it  miserable whore beetch while wiggling it helps it break free for the relight..
Reply:I got a fresh box today and they all light with no sticking on the first strike..must be a moisture thing
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadyou mean i been doin it wrong?  mine all stick..usually calling  it  miserable whore beetch while wiggling it helps it break free for the relight..
Reply:if i think my rod is damp, before striking it I'll hold it full contact on the metal with out any sparking for about 5 seconds or longer depending on how damp it is. u will notice a little smoke (steam) and watch the rod turn a lighter color. pull it off quickly and then strike and weld.
Reply:Well did your rods come in a hermetically sealed container? If not I'd go for another brand. Then at first you won't have to put them in an oven right away.
Reply:Another thing that causes this, that I haven't heard anybody mention, is bad ground. I have had scenarios where if I got the rod running, it would run okay, but while getting it started, it stuck like crazy. Cleaned a spot to bare metal and the problem went away.
Reply:I usually try a little preheat. Seems to make arc start a little easier.ChrisAuction Addict
Reply:Originally Posted by joshuabardwellAnother thing that causes this, that I haven't heard anybody mention, is bad ground. I have had scenarios where if I got the rod running, it would run okay, but while getting it started, it stuck like crazy. Cleaned a spot to bare metal and the problem went away.
Reply:Doh!Forgot the bad ground!Your right, I've gotten so used to grinding a clean ground contact point that I forgot about that!Additional resistance at the ground changes your open circuit/welding voltage.