Rookie Question (wire puddles)

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Let me clarify "rookie" for you.  I've never welded before this. I do, however, plan to take a class at our local college when offered. I asked a friend who welds A LOT (owns a machine shop) for advice and he pointed me to a wire feed MIG.  Picked up a Century Power Mate 70 on the cheap and bought a 2lb flux core wire spool 030.  And of course a face shield.  I watched a lot of youtube and googled my *** off and learned the basics for safety so at least if the welds turned out like crap (and they are) I wouldn't hurt myself or others in the process of learning.  The only thing I really have in mind for welding right now is for bonding bike chain links together to make different objects.  It would be nice one day to fix stuff when broken but baby steps first.My major question to start is this.  Why do I get a large pool/puddle of wire way before I can bond the bike chain links together?  I've played with the wire speed a lot and still get major puddles before the chain bonds (if it ever bonds) at and speed. I just kinked some chain up for practice and tried to get it to hold it position but the side I'm welding just comes out looking like a bumpy coiled up snake and half of the links still pivot even when covered in puddles of once molten wire. My hypothesis is that my welder isn't strong enough at 70amps to get the job I want done. But I'm hoping there is a little more to it.Please have mercy on the rookie.  I never thought it would be easy from the get go and now stand before you all, very humbled, asking for help. Thank you.
Reply:that is bold! im no expert but try just turning the heat up, wire down  that should create plenty of heat for a bike chain. good luck
Reply:Thanks! There is actually only a high/low setting and the wire is slowest. Would bigger wire such as .035 make a difference?
Reply:Getting a good work lead to wire contact point connection through the multiple links of that small chain is maybe one issue.Stick with the .030 flux core if you can but switch to some solid pieces of metal for practice. Anything but bike chain. If you want to make shapes get a stick of 1/4" rod, some small 1/8th" thick flat, some small angle. Have fun."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:Sandy, thank you. I was thinking of that issue with the chain links. I also have an issue with the large clamp not allowing the chain to rest how I want it so I actually started just laying it across a large section of chain. Please correct me if that is a horrible idea but with the metal clamp touching between 8-15 links depending on the shape and size I seem to get a quicker and better arc reaction.  Also of course welding closer to the clamp helps too. I'll for sure do some practice on more solid pieces but e whole idea for me is to use bike chain and gears for my projects. Thanks again for taking the time to respond. Follow up question. Would shrinking wire size make a difference?
Reply:Take it to your friend and have him give it a shot on the chain links.If these are Old Chains then you'll really have to clean them good to remove all of the years of crud on them that is fighting you making a good contact for the Work Clamp as well as for the Arc.As mentioned, the .030 Flux is just fineEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:You have a friend who has equipment and knows how to weld.  Use that resource to your advantage by having him teach you to weld.  Sure beats trying to figure it all out on your own.I see another, higher output welder in your very near future.  That little 70 amp mig is just about useless on anything thicker than 14 ga, due to low max voltage output, and likely not useful for anything much thinner than 18 ga either, due to likely too high a minumum volt output on the low setting.   Worst of both worlds.   If you want a useful, quality 110v mig, choose a 125-140 amp model from any of the major manufacturers (Lincoln, Hobart, Miller).  They're cheap enough and plentiful used on Craig's List.Your mig likely doesn't have the juice to burn anything thicker than the .030 fluxcore you're using now, so stick with that.  If you choose to use solid wire in it, use .023 and CO2 gas.  It needs to have a built in gas valve to use solid wire and gas.  Most tiny machines like that are fluxcore only.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:I was wondering if a person would get a pair of the el cheapo HF needle nose vice grips and bend the jaws into a 90º........ You'd have to have a torch to do that but then you could clamp to one of the links you were going to weld to. You could clamp your work lead to the vice grips. Weld a tab on the vice grips just for that purpose if you want to. Make the bend more than a 90º, so it could set there like the extra finger does and help hold the piece. You'd have to work out the angle or weld stand offs on the handles."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:Thanks for the continued support everybody!  My friend is an hour and a half away so I am very limited on getting there for learning purposes.  A lot of trial and error right now.  I read that sometimes a better Work Clam material may help but I have to imagine that mine is doing the job.  The chains are fairly clean but not new so I can guess that is causing plenty of issues.  Practice practice practice.  I have a TON of chain and I'll get some other metal to work with but I truly appreciate all of your advice.
Reply:Forget about practicing on chain links.   Get some flat plate and just practice running beads on plate, not welding anything together, just running beads.  This will give you the feel of moving the puddle and controlling the torch and also allow you to experiment with volt/wfs settings so you learn what works and what doesn't.   Once you have that down, then move on to stacking your beads tight up next to each other.  This teaches you how to control the torch and watch where you're going to put the weld just where you want it, instead of wandering all over.   Once you get that, then start practicing flat butt welds between plate.  Then move on to fillet welds (t-joints) in the flat position.  Next move on to other positions, such as vertical and overhead.  Once you get all that down, then you're ready to actually weld stuff together that you will use and be safe using.  This is why I say, get with someone who knows how, cause figuring all this out on your own can take literally years if you're an occasional practicer.  Some never do get to the different positions.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Originally Posted by DesertRider33Forget about practicing on chain links.   Get some flat plate and just practice running beads on plate, not welding anything together, just running beads.  This will give you the feel of moving the puddle and controlling the torch and also allow you to experiment with volt/wfs settings so you learn what works and what doesn't.   Once you have that down, then move on to stacking your beads tight up next to each other.  This teaches you how to control the torch and watch where you're going to put the weld just where you want it, instead of wandering all over.   Once you get that, then start practicing flat butt welds between plate.  Then move on to fillet welds (t-joints) in the flat position.  Next move on to other positions, such as vertical and overhead.  Once you get all that down, then you're ready to actually weld stuff together that you will use and be safe using.  This is why I say, get with someone who knows how, cause figuring all this out on your own can take literally years if you're an occasional practicer.  Some never do get to the different positions.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadyou left out pipe...;
Reply:Your small machine isn't helping any of this... Understand not all metal is weldable with all processes, and that chain may have chromed parts or other metal used thats not weldable with what you have. I agree with what DR suggested as far as getting some other material to work with..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Oh, btw, if you soak the chain in de-greaser remember DON'T use a clorinated onelike brake cleaner  ( maybe not TCE or MEK either ) because it produces nerve gasclouds when you weld the residue. (seems like all new welders should know that! )Maybe use Gunk !  and water+ SimpleGreen for clean up. SG is a great degreaser !  I think I would sooner stick weld it than try to Mig it........  but thats just me- I HATEMig......   It's like my dog pooping !    When you pull the trigger it's commin out-a LOT of it .......  for  better or worse ......  ( do I have a bad Mig attitude ? ) ( I am killing time waiting for a turkey to cook in the oven ! )T