The Ultimate Fabrication Table

admin

Well I've been using subpar welding surfaces ever since I started at age 13, and have decided to build my Ultimate Fabrication Table!!!! I have a list of features that I would like to incorporate into the table, but would like a few opinions about certain areas.Here's the list:Table dimension of 8' long x 3' deep x 3' tallAdjustable Base FeetTwo under table storage shelvesC-clamp storage rodPedal storage box w/cable holderFixed ground to TIG machineTwo accessory receivers at each end of the tableA single low profile drawer for small tool/welding accessoriesUnder mounted 120v outletsUnder mount grinder storage boxFiller Rod Storage rackAdjustable lightingAs you might be able to tell, this will be a stationary table and I will be placing it against a wall. My current dilemma is which frame design to go with. I've built tables out of 2x2 tubing and angle iron, but I've also seen a bunch of different materials being used by all of you guys. I will not be salvaging any material for free, and will purchase the steel from the local yard so just about anything is available. I'm just looking for input from you guys that have built your own. What did you use and what would you have done differently.
Reply:i built two in 8 months.  first one was my first project, second one was just finished last weekend.things i learneddraw it out (cad or paper) dont rely on the "design as you build" methodmeasure twice then check the drawing, measure twice more, repeat, then cut.drawing it out will allow you to have a material list, which makes ordering material easy, and you wont have to run back to the metal yard for stuff.and the most important advice in my opinion, if you're tired, stop.  dont be in a hurry to finish, this is a table you'll be using for a long time.what do you make?  8x3 is a very wide table.  good call on the 36" height.  mine is 41" high so i dont have to bend over so much.
Reply:Posibly a removable vice.A trailer hitch reciever mounted vertically and a 2" square tube welded to the vice to easily be slipped in and out for more room.safety last
Reply:Frame design will have alot to do with the top you decide to go with. 1/4" doesn't require as heavy of steel, but you need more support to prevent warping. Lightweight tube won't carry the weight of 1" + steel so that has to be done different. Warping will be less of an issue there.I agree 3' wide seems a bit much against a wall. The back half of the table won't be much good for welding, only support for larger projects. Thats about the right width for a free standing table for me so I can work from both sides. Also I find deep wall mounted tables are hard to access for storage and cleaning. Stuff gets pushed to the back out of easy reach and forgotten or never gets cleaned because you have to crawl under the table.If what you want is an occasional wider table there are several other possibilities. Roller or jack stands to support the item in the room while the rest is on the bench. Receivers with sliding tube supports. A friend of mine had the sides of his free standing table done this way. He had a long length of 3" tube that ran down both long sides of his bench. The tube "rail" was connected to 2" slide arms that fit in receivers under the table and could be locked. All this was set so the tops were flush with the table. He could slide the sides out about 2 feet from the table to support items he was working on. One side was split into 2 lengths, the other split into 3 sections. He had receivers on the ends that would hold his vise or if he pulled the side rails, would take them also to lengthen the table. A  screw jack under the rail would support heavy items and he had a small removable adjustable leg that he could use to get the sides exact to the top..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:You might want to put one of these one and use for various attachments, sort'a like the receiver concept:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=31180
Reply:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=26227That's one that I made over last winter.  The customer ended up mounting storage under it along with electrical outlets.  I dont have any pictures of it with the new additions.Common sense in an uncommon degree is what the world calls wisdom.
Reply:http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/welding-table.htmlcheck out this table. Its mind expanding aparantly.Its also $12 000
Reply:Well I've taken what everybody has had to say and this is what I've come up with thus far. The table dimensions are 72" x 30" x 36" tall with a 1/2" table top. The frame itself is used as the receiver for the tool adapters, and I've incorporated a rotating function into the tool adapter. The area lined with expanded steel is for fast access tool storage (my grinder and porter), the box to the lower right is for pedal storage, and the drawer on the left had side is 30x24x4 and will be used for mics tools and welding accs. Let me know what you think. There is still more to come.
Reply:I like it so far ... you're doing a nice job of designing it.  (Google SketchUp?)  May I ask how you plan on doing the turntables, and locking them in place for where you want to grind/clamp/etc.?  2x2 should be good on the framework.  It'll also make doing the receivers easier.Suggestion: receivers pointed to either side of table to accept additional accessories, such as extra supports for long projects.  Putting that third receiver in the middle of the table is a good idea, too.Another suggestion: One of your original "must-haves" was a storage bar for your c-clamps.  Any way to make a second "ladder" drawer-pull underneath that drawer, and hang your c-clamps from it?  Pull it out to find the clamp you want, push it back under to get it out of the way.Hey guys, maybe I'm missing something, but I don't see a place for the mini-fridge incorporated in the design.  The trailer-hitch BBQ would fit in any of those three front openings easily, though  .....
Reply:One thought: you're going to want the edges to overhang for the sake of both clamping a ground easily, and (more importantly) using clamps while you're working.  Opening up a C clamp to fit around the square tubing every time will get old in a hurry.Also, make sure the tool adapter locks down tight and strong.  If you ever want to use a bender in your fabrication, you'll want a rigid (but rotatable) base.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:SpyGuy, I'm going to be locking the rotating table with a large pin. The shaft that rotates will have multiple holes drilled through it to allow the pin to completely pass through. I'll add it to the design by my next posting. I also REALLY like your idea about having the c-clamp in a pull away rack of sorts underneath the primary drawer. I haven't been able to figure out a good solution, so thank you.Jack, thanks for the response. I will primarily be working on the right side of the table and there is 7 inches of clear space directly in front of where I will be working to easily clamp things down. I'll just have to deal without overhangs at other points due to my space limitations.  The table will also be permanently grounded to my primary welder, but I'm going to add a grounding tab into the design somewhere else for other equipment. I'm still working on how i'm going to secure the tool adapters to the table. I'll probably end up trying a few different options.Ohh yea, the table is made of 2.5"x2.5"x1/4" square tubing, and I'm designing this in solidworks.
Reply:I'm not sure I understand the size limitation part.  Can't you just make the frame smaller, so that the top has overhang?Is that a drawer or just a catch down below the left side?  Either way, you might want to think about dropping it down 8 inches, so -- again -- you can clamp bigger pieces to the whole table.  Maybe you'll only be working on small stuff, but I'd guess that sooner or later you'll have something you want to clamp to each end of the table.Another possibility is to concentrate less on the frame and more on the top.  I bought a second-hand heavy duty cabinet (1,900 pound capacity, per shelf), and bolted a 1" thick piece of steel onto it.  It was sturdy and quick -- although you've got to shop around for a good price on the steel.Even with a 1/2" thick piece, you're not looking at something that's going to bend much.  A 30x60 piece is going to be over 250 pounds.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:I'm going to draw up a table with overhang on it and see what I can do with it. I build turbo manifolds for a number of different companies which then sell them as their own product, so the table is designed with that in mind. My work area is 8' x 16' and after all of my equipment i'm left with just enough room for a table of this size. This will be my only workable surface, which is why i've built it as large as possible. I'll get some pictures up of my garage soon.Btw, that is a drawer, I just didn't mock up any hardware for itAll input is welcome!Last edited by TigWiz; 11-06-2009 at 02:38 PM.
Reply:One thing I would add to your table is I would add shelves where you have the blacksplash.
Reply:One item I would really look at is the height of the table. I am tall, and kitchen countertops, sinks, the bar where I moonlight as a bartender, etc. are a pain in the backside for me, literally! When I built a worksurface, it is great for me, but someone short would have problems looking over the top. Look at some of the things you do now, try putting a few blocks under the surface and raise it up, or try something lower before you actually build it. Also, look at how far everything is from your touch, nothing worse than having to reach and bend for coomon items.
Reply:.........Jesse James.....Hmmm......well.... back in 1980....when Mr. James wasn't even riding motorcycles yet.....I had a friend with a bike/frame shop.... that showed me his Motorcycle Frame Straightening Table he'd made...2" plate...4X6 feet...Blanchard ground one side to make it flat...then he'd drilled and tapped about 700 holes (by hand)....5/8"-11...on 3 inch centers both ways....for clamping the stuff to the table....3X3X1/4" square tube for legs and under frame...with a diagonal brace to support the center in case of any real heavy stuff on there...  This guy was so good at his frame straightening work...that there were a couple BMW bike dealers that sent him all their frames, from the East Coast...(and this shop was here in N. California)......in addition to the locals with Harleys, and British stuff....the Japanese bikes were usually not economical to straighten back then....most often, insurance company 'totalled' them...but he'd buy a few from the insurance companies, and get 'spare' parts offa' them.  Some guys that raced, even sent him their brand new frames to get them straighter than the factory had made them....  I'd go with 1/2" at least if you can afford it....and if  8 feet long...a center support/leg...don't weld the top to the frame...it can cause distortion (and you might want to lift the top off later for some reason)....drill some holes, countersink and bolt to the frame underneath....  At the time I mentioned above, I had two tables...both 4X8 feet...one was 1 inch plate....for most of my work...the other was 2" plate, had been drilled in a few places for a heavy-wall tube bender, and a couple big vises....and also a smaller table....3/4" plate top...30"X60", with locking metal caster-wheels on it......for TIG work...I bought them all from a guy who had retired....from owning his own welding business for many years...  Both of these 4X8 tables had the tops just sitting on the base....the 1" plate weighed around 1250 pounds...it wasn't going anywhere...but the guy had drilled and tapped some holes on the bottom....pieces of angle bolted on under there to hold the tops from moving around....Dougspair
Reply:Looking good so far. Here's a thought: do you stand mostly while assembling the manifolds or sit? I've seen some of your work (which is outstanding) and I picture you sitting while tig'n to that level of detail. If sitting is a consideration I would move the wire mesh basket to under the drawer, opening up the right half of the table to be setup as a "sit down" work station. Another point, you mentioned building the frame out of 2.5" x 1/4", I would use 1/4" only on the top three braces for your receiver and use 1/8" for the rest. There will be no compromise on stability, it will save weight and money. The table will be plenty heavy enough with 1/8" tubing. If the left side of the table is accessible (not into a corner against the wall) I would also leave that side of the wire basket open so you can get to stuff from the front and side. I would make the basket the width of the drawer and length of the table front to back. You keep the tools you use often at the front, and tools you use less at the rear. Tools at the rear are accessible from the side, and tools at the front are accessed from the front while you work. Just some thoughts.
Reply:There is a chance that when you are welding on something big and it requires rotating or positioning of parts that the back wall will get in the way.
Reply:Great drawings, great frame design.    Didn't notice if you said you were using an aluminum top, I would really advise it. Also don't be afraid to drill and tap it as needed. Bolt down clamps really aid fine work.     I like a good bit of overhang, but then we used a lot of vise grip c clamps.    Your rendering looks good enough to be in a catalog.past work toys; lathes,mills, drills, saws,  robots, lasers ironworker, shears, brake, press, grinders, tensile tester,  torches, tigs, migs, sticks, platten table, positioner,  plasmas , gleeble and spot. Retired June 30, 2009.
Reply:Okay ... kinda figured that's where you were going with it, just wanted to check and be sure ... Glad you liked my drawer-pull idea for the clamps, hope you use it..These guys also brought up a few other interesting points to consider.  Jack brought up the overhangs.  What about setting the drawer, wire shelf, and that front support piece back a couple of inches under the front of the table?  the drawer and shelf are till accessible, but now you have a 2" overhang to clamp to.  The receiver tubes would obviously come all the way out to the edge of the table.  Solid tool adaptors?  Use a real receiver hitch tube from a truck - Harbor Freight sells the 2" for $ 13.00.  (Btw, Jack, nice table setup.)ChainLine and MarkFuga both mentioned height of table.  What I would do were I to do this would be to build the table as a "stand-up" table, with enough height to be comfortable while standing, yet easily able to reach the backsplash.  (Mccolld, good idea on the extra shelving in the back, but I think it would be better to have more surface space. Shelves and cabinets can always be hung at a decent height over the worksurface.)  When you need to do "sitdown" work ... well, guess you may have to build yourself a shop stool as your next project!  Mark's idea of relocating the wire mesh shelf is a good one, too - your clamp rack could be on that side, down by your leg.  (For that matter, some companies have small filing cabinets that bolt on directly under the worksurface, and hang above the floor.  might want to look into a used one for your drawer setup.)Which side of the table will be against the wall, left or right?  If the left side will be against the wall, then your placement of the drawer should be okay - if the right side, may want to consider 'flopping' the drawer and wire shelf so as to give you more room to work in while sitting.  I'd put the drawer side of the table against the wall, maybe continue the backsplash around the corner on that side, as well..Wes's idea of an aluminum top is good, but his idea of drilled/tapped holes for bolt-down clamps is even better.  trying to clamp onto something in the middle of the table can be a real pain sometimes, and bolt-don clamps would help remedy this situation.Anyway, here's what i would do with the table .. couple of different ideas: Attached Images
Reply:Well I started with an entirely different frame, and I think I'm onto something here. I wanted to keep the same footprint for the frame while incorporating a lip around the tables surface (As recommended by everyone on here, thank you) and came up with this so far. There is still a lot to be done, but I wanted to show everybody what I've come up with at this point.Next I'll be working on the drawers on the left hand side of the table followed by the Pull out C-clamp rack. What do you think?
Reply:In a hurry, but heres another one:
Reply:You might consider pipe for legs. Use the next larger size for collars to weld on swing out shelves and clamp racks.
Reply:That's pretty cool.  In your shoes, I'd still reduce the footprint in the front.  Keeping the legs flush with the front of the table means you're going to hit them with your feet -- it's it's set back, you won't.  It doesn't matter so much on the sides or the back, but I recently tore my wood bench apart only to set the front of the legs further back.On the other hand, if you keep them flush with the front (like a woodworking bench), you could use the legs as a base for clamping.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:I don't think the legs will be a problem, I think this will help everybody envision my micro garage Three Shelves full of Mics crap, a small toolbox, the workbench, and the TIG. On the far side is the garage door, and on the near side a door opening. I can barely breathe in there sometimes, but I have to make it work. Having this bench will REALLY help me be more productive.You're missing something.  You need three hooks on the wall about 2' above the bench.  One for a clear shield, one for your welding helmet, and one for the hat you take off so you can put on your welding helmet.  I find that when working on stuff, I like to switch headgear a lot.  Baseball cap for grinding and fitting and welding helmet when I actually get to welding.  Actually, some nice wall cabinets above the bench would be nice for consumables, ear muffs, and your helmet.  Keeps the dust of them that way.  You won't like that grinder there either.  You'll run into it when reaching for your tool box and it will fill the drawers with dust.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Forgive me if I missed it, but I didn't see what table top thickness is planned. Just a word of advice.  If the top is less than 1" please keep any beads holding it onto the frame to just those necessary to keep it from moving around, and move around and let it cool between welds.  I bought a used table with a 1/2" steel top of 4'X8' dimensions that had a 3/16" crown caused by the heat generated from those welds.  It took a good deal of work to restore it to flatness.ScottMiller XMT 350 CC/CV w/gas solenoid opt.Miller S-22A wirefeederBernard 400A "Q" gunMiller Spoolmatic 30A / WC-24C-K 200A torch/gas lensWeldcraft WC-18 watercooled torchHypertherm Powermax 30Victor O/A
Reply:Originally Posted by TigWizI don't think the legs will be a problem, I think this will help everybody envision my micro garage Three Shelves full of Mics crap, a small toolbox, the workbench, and the TIG. On the far side is the garage door, and on the near side a door opening. I can barely breathe in there sometimes, but I have to make it work. Having this bench will REALLY help me be more productive.
Reply:holly crap what program are you using???
Reply:Like this This is in solid works, you just need to know a few tricks to make it look this way... I'm going to look into the ventilation a bit more, I'm having trouble visualizing it at the moment. Well, back to studying for my exam...
Reply:Hi TigWiz, I have access to Solidworks 2008, love your pics, Do you have any tips to help me draw up the welding table I am designing.
Reply:Well I just breezed through the exam so I'm feeling much better. I have absolutely no tips or tricks to using solidworks...You should first make a basic sketch to figure out your primary dimensions. Then, draw the profile of all the different sized tubes you're going to be using and save the sketches. Then, every time you need a different length tube in a specific size, you open the file, click save as, save it as the (*Tube size*, *extrusion length*), and then extrude the sketch to the desired dimension.Also, never try to build the table as a single part, Build it as an assembly of all the different parts its made up of. Also, if you set the material to the correct type you can determine how much the table will weigh prior to building it. Ohh yea, use the drawing function to create drawings with all the current dimensions of the table to use as a reference as you build it. This will really help to streamline the process. Other than that, just have patience.
Reply:Originally Posted by TigWizLike this
Reply:Originally Posted by TigWizLike this
Reply:The stereo does need an upgrade.
Reply:Nice design so far. The best additions to a welding table that I like are a 3/8"-2" x2" angle iron welded the entire length of the table on the front with the V up. This helps hold round things, and makes pipe/tube fit ups easy. Also a ring of some sort welded to the side to hold the stinger or wire feed gun.And you need at least a 150 watt stereo system.Last edited by Cofe; 11-09-2009 at 09:34 PM.6"XX P5P8 6G
Reply:Looks good. I wish I had solidworks
Reply:TigWiz, Thanks for the help, I am very new to solidworks so anything you can teach me is greatly appreciated!
Reply:Ok guys, here you go... A big ole 500W stereo and even a plasma TV. Also added the rubber mat for my feet   A new view looking into the garage from the outside:I'm working on integrating more lighting into the renderings, but don't have the time to play with that right now. As it is they are taking almost 20 minutes to render, and this is on a 3.2ghz quad core... If anybody has questions about solidworks feel free to ask.
Reply:Lookin good! To save space you could use a Boise wave instead. Also noticed there is no Vise..............Need a Vise!!!6"XX P5P8 6G
Reply:Cup of coffee in there and I'd be good to go.  Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:no nekked ladies calendar?  you gay or somethin'? hehe, just kidding.  Looking good, I have a two car garage, and a wife that refuses to park her car outside, so i can sympathize with folks having small space for workshop.  You might want to consider putting up some corner shelves on the corner to the left of the table, right above what looks like a red tool chest.  Unfortunately, if you have the conventional garage door, rails for the door will occupy that space.elevating the above mentioned tool box might be a good idea.  if your tool box come with wheels, as they mostly do, then this wont be an issue.  Those garage doors don't seal off completely.If you're tig welding, i suppose it wont be an issue, but if you do a lot of grinding and/or generally like to play with stuff that produce flame/sparks, you might want to consider getting welding blankets to cover up the shelves on the left side.  you'll probably have some flammable things on it.by the way, it looks like a car wont even fit in there?  is it a storage space or garage?
Reply:I would hang the speakers, using 4 smaller bookshelf type with a sub woofer and a center channel for the Plasma.A dedicated shelf for the amplifier by the T.V. all remote control operated,  keep it out of the way save on shelf space.  300 disc C.D. player too.Anyway that is what I did in mine (dont have the flat screen tv though).
Reply:It is a long and thin "single" car garage. When it was empty, my mark 1 VW Rabbit barely fit in the space. I've partitioned it as the washer, dryer, and clothes racks are located in the garage as well, and I like my clean clothes to stay that way.Now, If there is a way to import a picture into a soilidworks rendering I will add a calander  I do like the idea of covering up all the shelves, if for nothing more than to keep the dust off of everything on them. It'll also hide the mess that occupies the shelves, which is not my doing of course.In the meantime, I've added Jack's coffee Mug and the doors for the cabinets. I think this style of door will be best.
Reply:Neat design. I like it!past work toys; lathes,mills, drills, saws,  robots, lasers ironworker, shears, brake, press, grinders, tensile tester,  torches, tigs, migs, sticks, platten table, positioner,  plasmas , gleeble and spot. Retired June 30, 2009.
Reply:Now that's starting to look like a one-man shop.  I love it.  8:30 am start.  Springsteen on the stereo.  Hot coffee in that mug.  Time to get some stuff done.  Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Have you taken into consideration the size of the material you will be buying. The design looks great BTWMiller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:Refrigerator?
Reply:There is a frig with cold beverages just on the other side of the near wall
Reply:Originally Posted by TigWizWell I started with an entirely different frame, and I think I'm onto something here. I wanted to keep the same footprint for the frame while incorporating a lip around the tables surface (As recommended by everyone on here, thank you) and came up with this so far. There is still a lot to be done, but I wanted to show everybody what I've come up with at this point.Next I'll be working on the drawers on the left hand side of the table followed by the Pull out C-clamp rack. What do you think?