2 stick questions Vertical and the "whip"

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Ok first of all I'm quite new to the obsession and enjoying every minute.  Was keeping up with the daily updates on my progression but then someone had the wise idea to say two things first of all.Apparently I was dragging my 6011 and they commented no its a whip rod.  I think I have the general idea on the whip but any more information comments on it would be great.  2 steps forward one step back? but how far on the steps, any side to side motion?  etc.Secondly they said ok so you've got horizontal fillets and T's pretty close now start vertical.  Well I will say it was bad enough I wouldn't post a picture.  Just looked like melted wax ribbed very inch or so.  While I've figured out how to make some adjustments flat vertical just seemed totally different.  So need help from the very begging here.  But lots of the welding I have done for real has been attaching horse panels back to the stalls or making patches and most of that is 100% vertical so I'd like to have a better clue on how to run a bead instead of just make big tack welds.
Reply:The key is focusing on the puddle, not the rod end while whipping. You whip away and watch for the puddle to freeze, then bring it back. While doing vertical some side to side motion flattens out the bead. Basically do an upside down T.
Reply:Whipping involves moving forward and back however it also involves using a long and short arc.  As you whip forward you increase the length of the arc.   The increase in arc length will cause the voltage to rise and the amperage to drop.  When you come back you shorten the arc and that will lower the voltage and raise the amperage.  It is as if you have an amperage control on the end of your electrode.   You can do these extreme motions because the cellulose flux coating burns and produces large amounts of carbon dioxide.  The shield of gas is so massive that you don't have to worry about losing shielding.   This is not the case with other rods such as E 6013 or E 7018.  Yes you can drag a 6010 or 6011 rod if you want to or need to but you can do so much more with the whipping motion.  It is almost like dabbing or painting the metal where you want each time you go back into your cooling puddle.  You can whip at once per second or three per second, according to what you desire. More and faster whips per inch gives you a finer ripple.
Reply:So the whipping is  when going back to your cooling bead? Or is it pretty quick away and back?
Reply:Also on the vertical welding, I read someone mention a 30 degree rod approach but that requires taking a knee to get low enough to have any control.  Is that the right approach or can it be run closer to perpendicular?
Reply:30 degrees is a little excessive. around 5-10 works well for me.
Reply:Any progress on 6011?  On your whip motion it should 1/4" forward then 1/8" back and part of your timing is going to be based on what your seeing in the puddle.  You should start your rod an inch away from where you want your bead to start to give the rod enough time to heat up.  In starting your bead keep an eye on the puddle size and shape and wait for it to become round and about 5/16 in diameter.  Once you reach the puddle size move forward a 1/4" for about a sec or so then  move back an 1/8" and watch for the puddle to form again and repeat. For the moment don't worry about arc length for the time being other then keeping it towards the short side and since its practice lap yours beads by half.  This is based on using 1/8" 6011 running at around 80-90 amps.
Reply:you can whip (linear motion) or you can make circles..either one  allows the puddle to cool