Fireproofing my new Man Cave

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After reading the responses to the Member whom is building the All Metal Garage, I am now afraid to do anything remotely similar without baring my chest/soul/plans to my fellow site Members.So, here is the deal:I have a small basement workshop, and a two car garage; I currently have an electrician upgrading my house to 200 AMP service (already done), and also running a power line from the house to the garage to a new 100 AMP service box therein (currently in progress).I plan to continue to use the small basement workshop to hold my lathe (Myford ML7), and my TIG welder (Lincoln Invertec V205-T AC/DC) most of the time, but I will move the TIG welder to the garage when I have bigger projects on the go there.I will be using my MIG welder in the garage only (I never use it in the basement), however I would like to do something to make the garage as fireproof as possible (within reason) to avoid problems when using my MIG welding (Lincoln Power MIG 180C).I was considering the following options:1.  Use moisture resistant drywall, and painting it with some sort of fireproof paint (if there is something worth using that does not cost a fortune)2.  After applying the moisture resistant drywall, use some sort of metal sheeting to cover half way up the walls, along with some sort of metal base board (e.g. 2 or 3 inch strips of aluminum to seal things at the bottom3.  Use some sort of metal sheeting to cover the walls from top to bottom4.  Some combination of all of the aboveGosh, I am not sure what to do on the ceiling, perhaps the moisture resistant drywall would suffice but I am not sure.I know there is some sort of fire resistant drywall too, but I am not sure if it is suitable for a garage that would have moisture involved (we have cold winters, with snow, here in the Toronto area in Ontario, Canada).I plan to install a natural gas furnace, the type that hangs from the ceiling (with a couple of inches clearance), and keep the garage at some temperature above freezing around the year (not sure what the minimum temperature would be, or should be, during the Winter months).Any feedback would be appreciated, perhaps you have done something similar and can help me avoid any pitfalls that I may not have considered.Regards to all.Working on cars and bikes is my hobby, learning to weld the pieces together is my quest.
Reply:You can use tilebacker to line your garage, even the overhead.  Just don't forget to provide access to the crawlspace up top.  There's even a drywall that's faced with fiberglass now, instead of paper.  Drywall is fire resistant anyway.  If you want a longer fire rating, use 2 layers where you plan to do your welding.  Have at least 2 fire extinguishers in the shop, located at opposite ends of same, away from welding area.  Metal is good, of course, but can be a bit more spendy.  Don't use fireproof paint, there's no such thing anyway.  If you want to make regular latex paint more fire resistant, add some taping mud and stir.  It also gives a little better coverage.  Good luck and keep us posted.Contrary to popular opinion, I do NOT have a pet turkey that craps molten steel.  It's a goose.
Reply:Find the narrowest roll of galvinized flashing to staple to the wall bottom plates. I don't think you'd have much fire danger using regular 5/8" sheetrock on the walls all the way to 1/2" above the floor to keep water away from it. Some may have diferring opinions about this. The reason to use 5/8" on the walls is because someday something is going to fall into the wall and punch a hole in it, so the 5/8" will take a little more abuse. If you do woodworking in the garage, be religious on keeping the sawdust cleaned up. Since you plan to heat it, don't skimp on insulation. The extra $ spent on it will pay you back soon enough.  I didn't see an O/A torch mentioned in your tool list, it will be the most likely to start a fire due to larger sparks rolling across the floor.                                         JMHO,                                                    MikeLast edited by mla2ofus; 12-25-2011 at 04:05 PM.Ol' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Looking for a wall covering that's fire proof, they make a panel that's called cement or stone board. I know Lowes sell's it in a 3x5 sheet. I got some years ago that was 4x8x1/4.________________________________Everlast PA140STEverlast PowerPlasma 50And no you can't Borrow them
Reply:Thanks for the tips everyone (good stuff), I appreciate it, I am going to check on some of those items this week.BTW, I do no have an O/A setup, and do not plan to use one.I did find this tip on paint, not sure if it is worth the effort though:http://www.ehow.com/how_8004770_make...oof-paint.htmlRegards to all.Working on cars and bikes is my hobby, learning to weld the pieces together is my quest.
Reply:Hey DavidSim,I'm a firefighter in Wisconsin so your post really caught my attention. As far as "fireproof/fire resistant paint" I've never heard of a product that has been certified for that purpose. I would recommend not even bothering since a coating would only be in the hundredths of an inch thick. The most cost effective way to protect your structure from fire would to have all combustible structural members (studs, rafters, ect.) covered with drywall, which will not burn on its own, with the exception of the paper. Even though there is a paper liner, it would take a direct flame to ignite it. Make sure to tape and mud all joints of the sheets, this is an important step in creating a fire resistant layer from ceiling to floor, that a lot of people get lazy and don't do. I've seen firsthand a significant increase in protection from fire when all the joints are sealed. Also make sure that you use a baseboard that reached all the way down to the cement floor of your garage, to create a seal from dry to floor, that is especially important with welding and grinding equipment that will produce sparks that could get behind a drywall sheet on its own. That baseboard could be made from inexpensive pressure treated lumber so if you do get water on the floor it would not damage your baseboard. As a last precaution I would keep all flammable fluids away from sparks, preferably in closed a metal cabinet. Fire spreads vertically the fastest, so keep floors clear of combustible material and make sure all joints of your drywall are properly sealed. I don't really see it necessary to use a cement board or galvanized metal panel, if you follow my recommendations for drywall, unless you have an open flame present within 3 feet from a wall, thats what common building code calls for. Good luck! if you have any more questions let me know. Ryan
Reply:Hi David, Yes in fact there is such a thing as fire resistance paint, I have seen it  do what it does quite well!  Very Very expensive!!!  X rated 5/8 drywall gives you 1hr with wood studs double that gives you 2 hrs.  I would over lap and seal the seams! Cement board is not good as it holds moisture and will expand and explode apart with enough heat!  Steel would be the most $ and hardest to work with as to fitting. Potential fuel load ie combustibles need to be the main concern! I would go with the X 5/8 and double it if you have a lot in the way of fuel  load!  I would hope response time in your area is less than an hour!AEAD 200LE, Lincoln precision tig 185, Millermatic 251, Spectrum 625 extreme, Victor torch , Smithy 1220LTD. and  Do all C-4 band saw ,  Always adding.
Reply:WI Fire, HouseOffire, thank you both for your excellent recommendations, great stuff.It looks like I will go with the drywall, and a good baseboard down to the cement floor.Thanks again, and regards to all from Toronto, Ontario, CanadaWorking on cars and bikes is my hobby, learning to weld the pieces together is my quest.
Reply:Just throwing this out there.  My friend and I were talking about these today, and I think we're both buying them for our attached garages.http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...ortby=ourPickshttp://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...ortby=ourPicks  Unless, of course, someone knows of a cheaper place to get similar units.  Griots is not normally the best value... but these definitely don't seem over-priced.__David Hillman
Reply:Sprinklers have almost put us out of bussiness!  No kidding the kids are not catching fires like we did back in the day.  That is a very inexpensive way to protect your shop!If you go that route make sure you plan the coverage correctly. Even if the sprinklers do get overwhelmed it buys critical time for the responders!AEAD 200LE, Lincoln precision tig 185, Millermatic 251, Spectrum 625 extreme, Victor torch , Smithy 1220LTD. and  Do all C-4 band saw ,  Always adding.
Reply:my two cents says make sure you can get at all the shop floor areas to sweep it clean and keep it clean.....cold concrete floors that are clean and not full of saw dust ,scraps of paper and wood do a pretty good job of not igniting. keep rags in a fireproof containerbobs77vet/37ford4drEastwood digital TIG200HH190Lincoln Invertec 155sLincoln weldpak 100sears/craftsman (lincoln) 50a 240v buzz boxO/A rig Harris gaugesnexion cut 50 dxchicago electric (HF) 240v spot welder
Reply:one of my friends has a wooden barn where he does most of his fabrication - the walls are exposed 2x4 with wooden doors. to help protect it from fire hazard, we found a bunch of old tin and lined the walls overlapping at least 4" - then put a flashing all around thebase so that 3 walls were covered up to 8' high with tin and flashing on the floor. he keeps the doors open when he works for ventilation (just a cutting torch, chop saw, and miller bobcat)one option we originally came up with was just covering the walls in the area that he planned to do the welding, but we had enough to cover the shop. granted it was a small 15x15 buildingim sure its not the cheapest way to go, but we know it wont cause a fire. if you could find some inexpensive or used tin (non-galvanized) it would be great for fireproofing. the roof however i have no idea, ive always worked in rough framed shops with high and exposed framing (over 12' tall)
Reply:Thanks for all the tips everyone, some good advice for sure.Regards to all.Working on cars and bikes is my hobby, learning to weld the pieces together is my quest.
Reply:use concrete backer board that way if you bump it its not a mess.And on the sprinkler idea ALL houses should have them in my opinion. I was in the fire alarm and sprinkler trade for 28 years (and saw lots of bad stuff). It could be a very small cost to prevent the spark you didn't see from flaring up and causing you grief in the middle of the night. Especially if attached to your house. If your garage is unfinished or has good access it could be only a couple grand, versus "loose all your goodies and threaten your self and family".Last edited by dumb as a stump; 12-28-2011 at 09:10 AM.Miller thunderbolt 250Decastar 135ERecovering tool-o-holic ESAB OAI have been interested or involved in Electrical, Fire Alarm, Auto, Marine, Welding, Electronics ETC to name a just a few. So YES you can own too many tools.
Reply:There's lots of good ideas that have been posted.I totally agree with the firefighter that says properly taped drywall is the way to go.You are in 'Toronto' so you have a responding fire hall within 3-5 minutes.  Thus I would focus in prevention.Two areas are important, first general cleanliness of the garage, and secondly removing 'hazards. By hazard I mean all the flammable stuff that accumulates - get rid of it or store it in a fire cabinet.
Reply:Hey, great thread.  What do you guys use as window coverings?  I have a window close to where I grind and weld.  I don't like the neighbors looking in.  mb