Floor protector?

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So I'm finally going to be moving out of my garage and into a warehouse. I have a friend who owns a distribution company and he has a huge warehouse and uses very little of the space so he is offering to let me take over a corner of his warehouse. He just had the floors epoxy coated and wants to make sure I don't damage the floors. Pretty much my operations include welding, grinding, light machining and moving metal around. Just curious if anyone has any good ideas of something cheap I could lay on the floor? It has to be temporary because they are looking to move eventually and it also has to look somewhat nice, and obviously things with wheels need to be able to roll easily on it. I need to cover about 600 sq ft of floor. I was thinking maybe some of those cheap vinyl tiles or the linoleum ones and just lay them on the floor and not actually stick them? I'm not too worried about actually damaging the floor, just occasionally a hot piece of metal or weld glob will fall to the floor and I don't want it to leave a black mark on his new floor. Any ideas?
Reply:4' X 8' X 3/4" sheets of plywood.Fasten them together using standard "strong tie" flat sheet metal plates (home improv stores) and 3/4 " long truss head screws.If you have any heavy work benches/tables or machines, those will serve to hold them down.Of course, you will want to practice fire safety and so you need to make sure you cover this plywood with a fireproof material, such as 4' X 8' sheet metal (at least in areas you weld in).There are not going to be a lot of options for you if you desire it to be returned to the same condition "like it never happened" after you are gone at some future time.
Reply:well home depot just had a commertial on tv for laminent flooring at .99 cents a square foot, that will protect with no seams and allow you to roll whatever you want over it, also its fire resistant and noplace for molten metal to fall into a crevice like wood...Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:This isn't going to be a heavily used industrial setting, as I only do this some weeknights and weekends. I think that's a little more than I need. I've been working in my garage for a few years now, and yes, it's a concrete floor, but there are only a couple black stains from when a hot piece of metal fell. I know plastic tiles will melt, But I can't imagine it would melt all the way through before I had time to pick it up. I was thinking maybe a mild spray adhesive to keep the tiles in place, and that should come up pretty easily with a little cleanup afterwards.
Reply:One of the contractors I worked for, did floor coating systems.  We had products that were simple pretty colorings and other products used to build up and level floors and warehouse docks that had better wear characteristics than the concrete.   Have the landlord find out from the contractors what they used.Last edited by Rog02; 08-26-2013 at 03:22 PM.RogerOld, Tired, and GRUMPYSalesman will call, Batteries not included, Assembly is required, and FREE ADVICE IS WORTH EXACTLY WHAT YOU PAY FOR IT!Dial Arc 250HFThunderbolt 225 AC/DCAssorted A/O torches
Reply:my epoxy floor doesn't like my welding,grinding ,maching,or scraping with heavy metal.rust stains happen easy from the chips and dust.that plywood suggestion might be your best bet.miller thunderbolt 250vlincoln square wave tig 175 prolincoln idealarc mig sp250everlast tig 210EXTeverlast power plasma 50chicago electric (hf) 130 tig/90 arcchicago electric 90 amp flux wire3 sets oxy/acet
Reply:For the price you'll pay to cover the floor, to protect whats there, I'd probably just refinish your area when it comes time to move out.-AaronJet 17.5" Drill Press1942 South Bend 16x84 Lathe1980s Miller 320A / BP --- 2013 Power Mig 2562012 Jet 7x12 Horizontal BandsawVictor O/A Setup
Reply:We covered a gym floor with sheets of 1/4'' masonite and welding blankets where  required. Worked fine and not too costly.
Reply:I never considered plywood... Or even masonite. I'm trying to go as cheap as possible on this. $.99/sq ft is still $400-$600 for something I may just throw away in a couple months.John 3:16(2) Miller Pheonix 456(2) Millermertic 252Dynasty 210DXHobart 210MVPDoringer D350 SA Cold SawScotchman 350LT Cold SawWebb 10x50 MillWebb 15x40 LatheGeka Bendicrop Ironworker
Reply:1/4" tile backer board is about $10 for a 3' x 5' sheet.  So that would put you around $0.67 / sq ft.  Might crack depending on how flat the existing floor is and how much weight you put on it.1/2" ultralight drywall is also about $10 for a 4' x 8' sheet (about $0.31 / sq ft).  I've never used the ultralight stuff (or any kind of drywall as a floor covering, for that matter), but the regular weight stuff was only a little more per sheet.
Reply:Originally Posted by dbotos1/4" tile backer board is about $10 for a 3' x 5' sheet.  So that would put you around $0.67 / sq ft.  Might crack depending on how flat the existing floor is and how much weight you put on it.1/2" ultralight drywall is also about $10 for a 4' x 8' sheet (about $0.31 / sq ft).  I've never used the ultralight stuff (or any kind of drywall as a floor covering, for that matter), but the regular weight stuff was only a little more per sheet.
Reply:I second the tongue and groove subflooring.  Was going to first it, but someone beat me to it.
Reply:What's the best way to fire proof that? Obviously keep a fire extinguisher nearby but is there an aerosol can or a type of paint I should apply?John 3:16(2) Miller Pheonix 456(2) Millermertic 252Dynasty 210DXHobart 210MVPDoringer D350 SA Cold SawScotchman 350LT Cold SawWebb 10x50 MillWebb 15x40 LatheGeka Bendicrop Ironworker
Reply:The safety cops will be all over this, I am sure.  Manufactured sheet goods like subflooring are already treated with fire retardent chemicals.  It isn't fireproof but it isn't likely to burst into flames from a shower of sparks from a grinder or welding arc.  Not like dry grass outdoors!   Burn spots will appear, no doubt.Hot blobs of molten metal from torch or plasma cutting and gouging though might be different. A hot blob will sit there sharing it's heat with the treated wood for an extended time, perhaps long enough to trigger some flames, or worse: smoulder away for hours, little visible smoke until it is a real problem.Be pro-active - use welding blankets or adequately sized pieces of sheet metal to protect a vulnerable area.  A couple buckets of water strategically placed would be a good idea.  Is there a good source of continuous water in the area, like a hose tap or two?  Keep the hose clear so it can be reached and the water turned on in a hurry if needed.Many blacksmith shops in the past were in wooden buildings with wooden floors.  Many burned down, to be sure, but that's the way it was.How big is your operation and what sort of work are you doing anyways?- MondoMember, AWSLincoln ProMIG 140Lincoln AC TombstoneCraftsman Lathe 12 x 24 c1935Atlas MFC Horizontal MillCraftsman Commercial Lathe 12 x 36 c1970- - - I'll just keep on keepin' on.
Reply:There was a spray we used on foam structures that were near the pyrotechnics on stage.  Let me see if I can find what it was.  It may be an option, but I also like the welding blanket idea.
Reply:Tractor Supply sells rubber matting, they keep them piled up right in front of the store where you walk in. It looks like the stuff you would see under a swing set at a park. I believe but not positive they are 6x6 pcs. They are about the same price as a sheet of plywood and won't warp on you, and will come in handy in the future when you move on. I look at them all the time just for that purpose if I ever needed. Hope that helps. I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Those are horse stall mats.  4' x 6' x 3/4" thick.  I'm guessing they're probably not flame-retardant.  Burning rubber is nasty stuff (think tire fire).
Reply:It's a "light welding and fabrication" side job. Welding, grinding, plasma cutting, and milling. However the guy now decided he wants to sub-lease his warehouse out in sections. He's got about a 6,500 sq ft warehouse and he only uses 200 or so. He was hoping to get into a different side of the market but since he distributes medical equipment, obamacare almost ruined him and shut down his plan and he's in a pretty long lease from what I understand. Anyway, I just decided it would be best if I pay him for the space and since he made this decision, he won't be moving for a while. he's charging me about $10/sq ft/yr which in the chicagoland area isn't bad at all. So I'm just going to weld right over the floor and possibly get it re-finished a couple years down the road when I move into my own place if it's really bad.However, this opens up a new question, I want to keep his building up to OSHA and fire inspector standards, etc. It's already wired for me, so I'm not worried about that, but the OSHA page for welding, cutting and grinding will take me a day just to read it all! Obviously keep a fire extinguisher or 2 nearby and use common sense about where I'm welding and what's next to me, but anything else I should do, like that caution tape on the floor or anything like that?John 3:16(2) Miller Pheonix 456(2) Millermertic 252Dynasty 210DXHobart 210MVPDoringer D350 SA Cold SawScotchman 350LT Cold SawWebb 10x50 MillWebb 15x40 LatheGeka Bendicrop Ironworker
Reply:Originally Posted by Econdron....However, this opens up a new question, I want to keep his building up to OSHA and fire inspector standards, etc. It's already wired for me, so I'm not worried about that, but the OSHA page for welding, cutting and grinding will take me a day just to read it all! Obviously keep a fire extinguisher or 2 nearby and use common sense about where I'm welding and what's next to me, but anything else I should do, like that caution tape on the floor or anything like that?
Reply:Be careful about inviting inspectors, town/city/county officials, etc. to your business.  It could be a can of worms you'll wish you never opened up.  Not saying you're going to have blatant safety hazards, but more likely some tiny detail buried somewhere in a code or law that requires something ridiculous (i.e. expensive) like an elaborate automatic fire-suppression system, crazy ventilation, etc.  Just use common sense and plead ignorance if something ever comes up.  Not saying that will get you off the hook, but better to beg for forgiveness than ask for permission.