PIPE WELDING QUESTION (uphill) THREAD

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Im new to pipe welding and just have a few questions.  When tacking up your pipe do you prefer a 3/32" land with a 3/32" root opening. Or a 1/8" land with a 1/8" root opening or a mix of both? Also what amperage do you run for a 1/8" 6010, and at what dig or arc force setting 1-100? What angle do you run, straight at a 90 all the way around the pipe, and do you whip and pause (step) the electrode or just jam it in and drag i? Also how much weld reinforcement do you prefer on the inside of your pipe?  Also when running your hot pass, fill, and cap with a 7018 do you prefer running 3/32" or 1/8" or both? and do you like running stringers or a weave for your cap? In the 5G position when you reach 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock on the opposite side do you start tilting your rod back and drag it so slag is pushed to the rear of the puddle instead of jumping in front of you?Picture are:  schedule 160  --  2" pipe --- 6GFirst Picture:  ROOT  -- 1/8" 5p+ 6010 -- 71 amps 100 on dig setting  -- Whip & PauseSecond Picture:  CAP  -- 3/32" 7018  --  95 amps 0 on dig setting  --  slight 5 degree push angle from 6 o'clock to 10 o'clock then tilting back and dragging from 10-12 to push slag back behind puddle Attached Images
Reply:Photo 1 & 2:  schedule 80 -- 2" pipe -- 6G                     1/8" 6010 root --  3/32" 7018 fill * capPhoto 1:  less reinforcement 1/32" - 1/16" Photo 2:  stringer cap 3/32" 7018Photo 3:  3/32 7018 weave capI was just wondering what do you think is the ideal amount of reinforcement on the root pass? flush - 1/8" And do you guys prefer stringers on the cap or weave on the cap? Attached Images
Reply:What little pipe welding I do, I like a heavy 1/16-inch land, with 3/32-inch gap. About 75-amps with 1/8-inch 6010, +9.5 arc force using my Lincoln V350-Pro. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:When welding uphill, do you just jam the rod in the joint and drag it, do a whip & pause motion (step), or little circles, etc.?
Reply:I whip and pause. If the gap starts closing up on me, I point the rod forward to cut the gap open. If the key hole is opening up to much, I point the rod back into already deposited metal. When everything is going fine, I try to keep the rod 90-degrees to the pipe. Don't pay too much attention to me. I'm no pipe welder, I was a structural welder.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:You don't weave a 2g or 6g, only a 5g. Well I mean you "can" weave on a 6g but I've never heard of it being done anywhere that will pay you to weld. So with that said...I prefer a 1/8" gap and 1/8" land. Whip and pause the 1/8" 6010 while keeping the tip of the rod in the gap. I run it around 80-85 and move fast.. short steps. Reinforcement is usually above flush and under 1/8".For the fill and cap I prefer 3/32" 7018 over 1/8". On the 2g and 6g I run it about 85-90 all the way out, straight stringer beads. Might oscillate a little on the hot pass to ensure I fill in any wagon tracks and hit both sides of the bevel... helps to get a nice flat surface for the fill passes. For a 5g I use the same, 1/8" land and gap, 1/8" 6010 between 80-85, and 3/32" 7018s on 85-95. I generally try to keep the rod pointed to the center of the pipe on all positions. This goes especially for the 6010 and for the 7018 weave on the 5g. If you keep your rod aimed to the center you will usually have the correct angle all the way around... +/- a few degrees as necessary.  In your pictures, though it's hard to tell, it looks like you're running the cap either a little on the hot side and/or too slow. As for your root pass, you may be backing out of the land a little.. or your rod isn't jammed in there nice and tight. Try bumping your amperage 5-10 and keep the rod pushed in. I am by no means an expert, what I've said is just what works for me.Tomorrow I should be doing a tig root, 7018 fill and cap on a 5g, 5" pipe.. if I remember, I'll take some pictures.Last edited by akabadnews; 09-04-2013 at 02:23 PM.
Reply:When running your root with 6010s do use any dig/arc force settings? or just straight 80-90 amps? Also when running 7018 progressing up the pipe as you come to 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock on the opposite side if u keep ur angle dead straight or slightly tilted up the slag will jump in front you causing inclusions. So i've found myself as I come to 10 or 2 I will start to tilt my angle back to kick that slag back to the rear of the puddle. Do you find yourself doing the same thing or do you just keep your angle straight? Im starting a job in the next week that x-ray and ultra sound the pipe so I was wondering if you keep your angle straight and that slag jumps in front of the puddle will it leave inclusions that cause the weld to fail? Anyone with x-ray and ultrasound experience PLEASE jump in.
Reply:the purpose of the dig is to keep your rod from getting stuck/arc from going out when running 6010 roots. It makes it possible to really jam the rod in a tight gap. So put your dig on MAX for 6010 roots.On the 7018 fillers, keep your rod at 90 degrees or tilted slightly back on the uphill. Your heat is what keeps the slag from getting trapped, turn it up. You need it hot enough so the rod doesn't keep sticking, but not so hot that it's throwing buckshot everywhere.gap and land is just personal preference, whatever you can make work for you.Last edited by TimmyTIG; 09-04-2013 at 04:42 PM.
Reply:can I direct you to a thread...In this thread I and several other knowledgeable people share their expertise. http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=295551 take a gander.
Reply:I may use a slight push angle between 11-1 o'clock... if that's what you're asking. If you're hot enough, and keeping the weave in the top edge (or top third) of the puddle you shouldn't have a problem with slag getting ahead of the rod at 90 degrees -5 or so. Definitely check the thread Bostick linked. You might find a lot of useful information already discussed.
Reply:also stop using a file on your damn welds!
Reply:Originally Posted by Bostick101also stop using a file on your damn welds!
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPWhy is that? I've seen countless pipe welders do that over the years, well I mean I've seen their fitters do that!