Help design a ripper.

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About a year or two ago I got this John deere 450b( i think its the b model I can't remember.) 4in1 bucket and a detachable backhoe. Very useful tool. Especially since I have a piece of property that is all overgrown and in need of clearing. 72 acres total. (not clearing it all though!) The machine does well pushing over small trees and brush but I think a ripper on the back would be beneficial  to help pull them out of the ground a little easier and faster. I haven't been able to find one made for my machine, so I am contimplating fabricating one. The crawler probably weighs 16k lbs. basically I wondering what thickness of plate should I build the mounts out of? any other building tips? Here is a pic of how the backhoe attaches. it slides in to the bottom and is pinned in the top, I will be using this mount and build to fit it.- Christian M.C3 Welding & Fabrication - CNC Plasma Cutting-Mobile Welding-Custom welding and fabwww.c3welding.com
Reply:Why not build a brush rake for the bucket? Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:that would be good too... with a 4in1, would it be best I open the bucket and mount it on the flat, cutting edge, and just run it like a regular dozer?- Christian M.C3 Welding & Fabrication - CNC Plasma Cutting-Mobile Welding-Custom welding and fabwww.c3welding.com
Reply:Originally Posted by camjeep3with a 4in1, would it be best I open the bucket and mount it on the flat, cutting edge, and just run it like a regular dozer?
Reply:Here are some good ideas. http://www.ripcorippers.com/Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:yes, I have thought about that, I know it would be a real project. Not something to just throw together. I saw one where a guy took a ripper shank and mounted it on the end of his backhoe, that would be pretty cool for digging up larger trees, but most of my larger trees are staying. I am lucky to that I have pretty soft soil, not the hard clay that surrounds us. after hunting season is over I plan to start clearing alot and running the machine a good bit, I guess then I will know more of what exactly is needed.- Christian M.C3 Welding & Fabrication - CNC Plasma Cutting-Mobile Welding-Custom welding and fabwww.c3welding.com
Reply:The suggestion for a brush rake got me to thinking that you could devise a ripper claw attachment for the bucket that would be just as effective as a rear mount unit, without any additional hydraulics/valving.A front bucket mounted ripper claw could be configured to attach/detach easily and quickly using the "already there" hooks situated above the bucket (in the photo of the Deere).The main frame for the ripper claw would have a bar that spans between the 2 hooks that has "clevises" to engage the hooks.The rest of the ripper main frame would extend over the front of the bucket and down to the blade edge of the bucket where you would need to have a "back stop" spanning between the members of the ripper main frame.This back stop would need to fit over the cutting edge of the bucket blade to stabilize the ripper frame when sub soiling.I can tell you that this is an ambitious project whether you do it as a rear mounted or a bucket mounted device.For the work and loading that will be applied to the ripper claw, I suggest nothing less than 2 inch thick by about 6 inch wide plate for the ripper claw itself.Nothing less than 1 inch thick plate for the ripper main frame.  The back stop could be 3/4 inch plate, and would need to be "buttressed" up to the main frame members at the point where the back stop welds to the main frame members.The cross bar to mate to the hooks should be the same diameter as the available arc dimension of the hook on the machine.attaching and detaching would be accomplished by tilting the bucket "full forward" to approach the cross bar and then tilting backward to hang the ripper.  As the bucket is tilted back and raised, the ripper back stop will egnage the cutting edge of the bucket as it rotates into position.You will need to have a very substantial structure to brace the ripper claw. I envision doing that by making the ripper claw itself extend up above the bucket edge and running diagonal braces of 3/4 inch plate from the top of the ripper claw out to the 1 inch main frame members near to where the cross bar is welded in place.Very ambitious project indeed.
Reply:Here is one I made for my small tractor. You'd have to X's by 10 for your needs!  Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:With a backhoe attachment I guess I don't understand the need for a ripper to pull out tree roots/stumps. If you have soft soil you should be able to push w/ the front bucket about 6'-8' above the ground and push the tree over. Depending on the tree size, of course you don't want to let the root ball come up under the belly pan.                                                                       MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Originally Posted by mla2ofusWith a backhoe attachment I guess I don't understand the need for a ripper to pull out tree roots/stumps. If you have soft soil you should be able to push w/ the front bucket about 6'-8' above the ground and push the tree over. Depending on the tree size, of course you don't want to let the root ball come up under the belly pan.                                                                       Mike
Reply:I'd see if I could find a used equipment dealer with one, go and look at how others are made = take a camera and ruler with you.
Reply:It will be easier to find a ripper bar for a blade / grader and mount it .A company i worked for bought 2 at auction and we mounted them on the 834 rubber tired dozers  I think they came off of 16 or 14 cat graders and were complete with ram and shanks ...you won't need one that biglook at auctions or for used heavy equipment parts dealers it will save you time and money in the long runMaking a brush rake for your front bucket is easy and pretty straight forwardBacked my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me  What would SATAN do ?? Miller Trailblazer 302 AirPakMiller Digital Elite  Optrel Welding HatArcair K4000Suitcase 12RC / 12 VSHypertherm PM-45Rage 3 sawRusty old Truck
Reply:some good photos here   http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-CASE-11...item2eca713b18miller thunderbolt 250vlincoln square wave tig 175 prolincoln idealarc mig sp250everlast tig 210EXTeverlast power plasma 50chicago electric (hf) 130 tig/90 arcchicago electric 90 amp flux wire3 sets oxy/acet
Reply:Originally Posted by camjeep3The trees that are that tall and about 4-6" in diameter are fine to just push over. It's all the small saplings... You run them over and they just bend down. They don't come out of the soil
Reply:I think for your purpose I'd look more to building a small root/brush rake.  You could build a root rake that you could clamp into the 4in1 for use.  It would need to be sturdy, but in all honesty, that's not THAT much tractor.  I've had J.D. 450C dozer/sideboom combination tractors, and they really aren't heavy enough to tear things up.  Plus with your loader you have the TBG pads, which put a lot less traction than SBG pads.  Handy little machines, but not real powerhouses.  We have a JD 550G on the job I'm on right now, and I don't even use it to grade our haul roads.  I use the Cat D9N.-------------------------Chemetron AC/DC 300 HFSnap-On MM300L Lincoln SP140 Lincoln AC/DC 225g Lincoln SA200 Lincoln SA200 Miller Bobcat 225GVictor torchesH&M and Mathey beveling machinesMcElroy Plastic pipe fusion
Reply:A ripper is good for loosening the soil before bulldozing it.  Using it on small trees, stumps the problem is that all that stuff will get trapped under the ripper between it and the back of the tractor.  Most rippers only lift the shanks high enough to get them out of the dirt and may not lift them high enough to let the tree debris out.  I'd go with a root rake on your front bucket if  I did anything, your backhoe is already the best thing for stumps.In the picture looks like your track is too tight,  I'd adjust them for a little slack as JD recommends, otherwise you will wear your rails and sprockets out prematurely."The reason we are here is that we are not all there"SA 200Idealarc TM 300 300MM 200MM 25130a SpoolgunPrecision Tig 375Invertec V350 ProSC-32 CS 12 Wire FeederOxweld/Purox O/AArcAirHypertherm Powermax 85LN25
Reply:What norite said. I've got a 5-tine ripper gannon in our box scraper and it's darned near impossible to rip and leave the soil behind.
Reply:Originally Posted by noriteIn the picture looks like your track is too tight,  I'd adjust them for a little slack as JD recommends, otherwise you will wear your rails and sprockets out prematurely.
Reply:If traction becomes an issue for you, you can always add grouser bars. I had to do this one time, talk about a boring project! http://www.titussteel.com/our-produc...FQVBQgodPQQAeQDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400