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Hello all. I really appreciate any explanations I can get from you. I have been doing a ton of reading but have some questions. For the past year I have been using the Hobart 125 EZ Flux welder. I use .030 flux, on nothing more than 3/16 steel tube or angle iron. I am nothing more than a hobbyist, I really enjoy using the unit and building things around our country property. Ive made a few lawn rollers, and fabricated all kinds of little useful things. So I recently bought a little stick welder from Northern tool. Its just 115, that's all I have at the shop right now. But I wanted to learn to stick weld. So here are some of the questions. Flux welding seemed pretty simple, put the roll of wire on and go. In reading all the articles on electrodes, I am lost as to the process. 6011, 6013, 7018, etc. I understand they all do different things and have different tensile strengths. For reference, what would compare to the .030 flux I have been using? When I made the lawn roller I used 2" tube at 3/16 thick. I beveled the edges and had it on max power. The welds showed good penetration and I havent had any issues in the year + I have been using it pulling 1000lbs of sand in it. So if I were to have done it with a stick electrode what would be the equal to that .030 flux? Or are they totally apples to oranges? Any advice on the proper electrode for this 115 AC unit would be great. Most things I do are in my shop and I clean the metal. I have bookmarked the unit I just bought below. It got a lot of favorable reviews and was fairly inexpensive. Thanks for the help.http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...2862_200512862
Reply:Originally Posted by savannah537 Any advice on the proper electrode for this 115 AC unit would be great.
Reply:Ty sir. So that 6011 would be something like the .030 flux?
Reply:.030 flux doesn't tell me much, other than I'm pretty sure it's a T-11 wire. Give us the specs on the wire.Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Here you can download the data sheet, and compare. Us hobbyist are out numbered here, but for most things we would weld 6011 is good enough, it passed a 5-G bend test. http://www.hobartbrothers.com/produc...%26reg%3B+335A Attached ImagesDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Small 110v stick machines have a few disadvantages. 1st even maxed out most don't really give you a whole lot of output and duty cycle is usually very low. This is especially true if you can't feed them enough power to begin with. Most units recommend a dedicated 20 amp 115v outlet. If you run the machines from a 15 amp circuit, have any other items drawing power from the same circuit, or use an extension cord, you drop what little power the machine is getting and reduce it's overall maximum output.Cheaper units usually only run 1/16" or 5/64" rods well. Many 3/32" rods are really beyond the capability of some units. 6011 tends to be a good choice for these small machines because it requires the least amount of amps to run a given size rod. So if the machine is going to run 3/32" rods, chances are it will run 6011 even if it won't run other types of rods.Better inverters, like my Maxstar are more efficient at generating weld current, and will typically allow you a bit more output on 110v power. My Maxstar will run 1/8" 7018 on a 110v circuit, but I can readily tell it doesn't have the same arc characteristics as it does when run on 230v power.As far as rod types, that's been covered here fairly extensively, but I'll give you a brief rundown on the rods.6010- A Dc rod, but it runs poorly on many inexpensive inverters. Deep penetrating, fast freeze rod, it's good for dirty rusty material, but lacks the strength and ductility of other rods.6011- An Ac/DC version of 6010. A better choice for most small inverters as it will run well. Has all the same characteristics as 6010.6013- A shallow to medium penetrating rod with a 60K strength. Typically referred to as a "drag rod", it's simple and easy to use. Generally weaker and less ductile than 6010/11 and likes a bit cleaner material. 7014. A Medium penetrating all position rod. Also considered a drag rod and simple to use. Strength is higher than the 60XX rods and it tends to be a bit more ductile than the previous rods. It doesn't have the storage issues 7018 rods can have.7018. A medium penetrating all position, low hydrogen rod. Of the rods listed, it's the strongest and most ductile of the choices. It's typically called out for code welds for this reason. However these rods dislike moisture and for code work need to be kept dry and stored in a rod oven to avoid moisture pickup. When "damp" they can tend to run poorly. These rods can get "damp" simply by storing them improperly in areas with high humidity. The moisture destroys their low hydrogen properties and causes them to loose strength and ductility slightly as well as the poor weld characteristics. It also has issues with porosity when used on open root joints. 7018 typically wants more amps to run than the other rods, though in many cases it's not all that much more than is required to run 6013 or 7014. That little bit however may be an issue when you are pushing the max on an inexpensive inverter and trying to run 3/32" rods.Which rod you choose depends on what you want to do and which ones you can run the best. For typical home hobby projects, rod choice is typically a non issue for the most part. In general, most rods will do the job of sticking two pieces of metal together. For critical applications, it's typically best to go with the strongest rod you can run well.Last edited by DSW; 11-27-2013 at 12:32 PM.Reason: Mistyped the 6013 info originally..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Excellent info here, thank you so much. Cep I will get you the specs of the flux. Dsw, I am printing your answer out so I can refer back to it. Now in the rod explanation you said 6010/11 were deep penetrating, but 6013 was medium penetration but stronger. So if I read this correctly just because it's deeper penetrating doesn't mean it's necessarily stronger? And if I were to try some different rods out 6011, 6013 and because of a lack of oven 7014 would be a good couple to try out? I can't thank you all enough.
Reply:I did some hammer testing of different rods. Might be interesting to you. 6013 = 3-blows6011 = 8-blows7014 = 10-blows6010 5P-Plus = 10-blows7018 (cold) = 18-blows7018 (hot) = 23- blows Attached ImagesDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Sorry my bad. I meant to type 6013 was weaker and less ductile than 6010/11 this morning. I was in a hurry and was cut pasting and didn't proof what I typed 100%. I fixed it in the original post. Originally Posted by savannah537So if I read this correctly just because it's deeper penetrating doesn't mean it's necessarily stronger? And if I were to try some different rods out 6011, 6013 and because of a lack of oven 7014 would be a good couple to try out? I can't thank you all enough.
Reply:CEP,When I was asking you earlier what the comparison in electrode to the flux I was using, here it is. It looks like what you were saying E7 1T-11, I have bookmarked it below. This is the stuff I use and where I get it from, a local Tractor Supply.http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/stor...ding-wire-2-lb
Reply:savannah537 that is just a general purpose wire. Back before the Northridge earthquake in California we use to run a lot of Hobart's Fabshield 21-B. Can't tell you how many 1-inch V-butt side bend tests I passed with 21-B. But never tested with anything smaller than .068, most of the time it was 5/64 wire. That earthquake set the structural welding world on it's ear! After that you hardly ever seen a T-11 wire on the job, it was all T-8 wire. Most of the time it was ESAB's Coreshield 8, or Lincoln's NR-232, or NR-233. Both of your machines have you seriously under gunned for power. You might try some 3/32-inch AC 7018, if you had an oven to heat them it would help. But for most hobbyist welding 6011 will do anything you want.http://www.hobartbrothers.com/produc...d%26reg%3B+21Bhttp://esabna.com/us/en/products_cat...Product_ID=277Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Most mild steel is between 36,000 and 42,000 PSI minimum tensile strength. your 71t is 70,000 psi,mts 6010/11 is 60,000 psi,mts so both are stronger than the base metal. I wouldn't worry about rod strength as much as I would about prep and a good weld.
Reply:Excellent, so much good information here. I keep reading the post over to try and get it. I started w flux and it's very simple, the whole process is. The reason I just ordered the little 110 stick welder is I want to become proficient at stick welding. The plan is to eventually get a 220 line out to my garage and get a bigger more powerful arc welder. I can't complain at all about my little Hobart flux welder, it's done everything I wanted it to. I've conveniently made some friends that needed things fixed or fabricated as well. And like I said, nothing I do will be holding people or be necessary for safety reasons. Just hobby and equipment fixing. Thanks for all this great info.
Reply:You're about 10-steps ahead of most. You wouldn't believe how many people buy these little welders, and for their first project build a trailer to use on the highway!You gotta know your limitations, and the limitations of your equipment.Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400 |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:25:43