|
|
The piece I've welded on so far is the mount for the grinder, a piece of remnant C channel probably 3/16" thick with the square tube which is probably 1/8-3/16"I know on the second one I undercut/was too hot on the tube, tough angle thanks to the C channel. Might use the flux core welder to get in between the channels and the tube, but honestly welds on both sides of that should hold just fine for this stand!3/32" electrode, 3/32" carbon steel fill rod, amps set to 165, 'throttle' to 70-85% or more, 12-13cfh argon. #7 cup with lens Attached ImagesHobart EZ-Tig newbie.
Reply:a few quick things to help. PREP WORK- you have to clean your metal that will help keep your tungsten running longer, allow for much nicer welds and much more effective welds. 165 amps is a bit high for 1/8"-3/16" I personally would have it somewhere between 115-130 and would probably not use that much just have it there for more puddle control by foot. I would also be using a bigger tungsten and filler(but it is plenty doable with your set up) keep practicing thats the only way to get better. have fun!
Reply:i am surprised it looks that good with the metal not being prepped, when ever i have any dirt or millscale what so ever my tigs look way crappier then those....its like the dirt devils screwing with me.bobs77vet/37ford4drEastwood digital TIG200HH190Lincoln Invertec 155sLincoln weldpak 100sears/craftsman (lincoln) 50a 240v buzz boxO/A rig Harris gaugesnexion cut 50 dxchicago electric (HF) 240v spot welder
Reply:I did prep the metal actually, just around the parts where I knew I'd be welding, got aggressive with a flapper wheel on the angle grinder on both the base and about 1/2" fromt the base of the square tube. Should I follow that with a clean wipe with acetone?Hobart EZ-Tig newbie. |
|