Are all electrode holders/stingers the same?

admin

I just purchased a used Miller 304 XMT CC/CV multiprocess welder without any leads and am going to start with stick welding. My machine is rated at 225A at 60% and can produce a full 400A. I realize that electrode holders are rated for amperage and I have the following questions:1. Should I just purchase a holder rated for the max of my machine?2. Are all electrode holders/stingers the same? Please let me know why you think a particular brand or model is the best.Thanks in advance, jwr2200
Reply:Yes, pretty much they just hold the rod, of course the higher rating is bigger and heavier, so if you feel like wresting an over-sized stinger for the life of the machine, by all means buy a holder rated for 400 amps, most people are happy with a 200A, besides what rod are you planning on using that requires 400A?
Reply:To the extent that they all hold the electrode, they are similar, but they are NOT the same. Size, shape, holding method, etc, all vary.I like the standard spring clamp type, and use a 125A as the primary clamp, since it is small and light, and have a 300A heavy job (with larger whip on it) for higher current. A lot of guys prefer the screwlock style (twist the handle to grab the rod)I don't have a great preference in brand. Some people do... different brands have different release lever sizes, spring tensions, jaw grooving designs, etc. My main concern is that the release lever doesn't stick out too far and the spring is heavy enough to hold a 5/32 or 3/16 rod on the 300A.Advantage to the lower amperage holders is that they are smaller and are happy with smaller cable whip, which makes maneuvering easier out of position.
Reply:i've noticed differences in design, some i dislike more than others,  it makes absolutely no difference in performance, the only reason a different stinger will make a difference with me is if its in somebody elses hand.
Reply:In my opinion, bernard makes the best electrode holder.  Its 400 amps, but you can put it on any size lead.  I have mine on #1.  Tried #00, but it was Waay too  heavy.  I also have a 200 amp spring type on 12' of red #2.  Nice and light.  I tried to run 3/16 7018 on it, it just got hot. Its great for 1/8".DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Get your self a Bernard Shortstub holder and be done with it.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:I'm with Tozzi.  the sping type holders just seem not to hold up as long as the shortstub holders do to me.   plus I like being able to lock the rod in and bend it to any angle i need.I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:TONG,  faster rod change times, don't have to grab the hot rod stub and burn even more glove.  I like the Lincoln or the liquid arc, both in 200 amp, unless your doing a **** load of real hot welding well over the 200 amps then job done.Almost forgot, the first thing guy's do with the screw type is put the rod in the holder, then blend it and break the flux coating which equals more waste...I'd rather be hunting........USE ENOUGH HEAT.......Drifting around Aussie welding more pipe up, for something different.....wanting to get home.
Reply:It appears the O.P. is new to SMAW, that said, it serves a new welder to use a low amp, tong type holder. Low amp because it is lighter and easier to manipulate, tong type because it's easier to release a stuck rod, and they will stick rods being new, twist type stub holders tend to make 'smoking red spaghetti' out of stuck rods.
Reply:Originally Posted by ChamferTrodeIt appears the O.P. is new to SMAW, that said, it serves a new welder to use a low amp, tong type holder. Low amp because it is lighter and easier to manipulate, tong type because it's easier to release a stuck rod, and they will stick rods being new, twist type stub holders tend to make 'smoking red spaghetti' out of stuck rods.
Reply:Hmmm...A 2007 thread Burpee? I'll play anyway  Originally Posted by TozziWeldingGet your self a Bernard Shortstub holder and be done with it.
Reply:I made 2 stinger leads, a "shop lead" with a 200 amp stinger on a fairly heavy 1ga cable and a second "heavy duty field cable" about 33ft long made with a 250 amp stinger on single 0 gauge.Same thing with the ground leads, I put a 300a clamp on a 15ft 1ga cable and I am in the process of making a 20ft 0 or 00 gauge cable with  ground clamp and I am going to make them so I can connect them end to end.I only have a little 230 amp welder. The 250 amp stinger is likely over kill since the duty cycle is only about 20% at full load. But I like a little over kill.Just build a set or 2 that meets your needs most.old Miller spectrum 625 Lincoln SP-135 T, CO2+0.025 wireMiller model 250 and WP-18V torchCraftsman 100amp AC/DC and WP-17V torchCentury 115-004 HF arc stabilizerHome made 4 transformer spot welderHome made alternator welder
Reply:All I use is a Bernard shortstub. I prefer to bend my rods. It makes it much easier to get into tight spots when I can bend my rod. I sometimes bend my rod right around backwards to shorten it to get into a tight spot. Most guys (and gals) who weld for a living will recommend the Bernard Shortstub electrode holder.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:I'm stuck on Lenco.   I got a couple 200s, a 250 and a 300.   I buy that expensive orange flex lead for all them.   I make the lead about 10.5 - 11 feet long w/ a tweco quick connect on the other end, being OSHA doesn't allow a splice or repair w/in 10 foot of stinger.    I always try to use the lightest one I can.   I think tweco stingers are more popular on west coast, but I don't like them.   The Lencos arm is closer to the handle, lil shorter, which makes for less obstacle in tight places.      W/ lencos, I'm a pretty good long shot at flicking my wrist while opening the jaws, and make the rod stub land in a metal 5 gal bucket.
Reply:i use the shortstub in the shop and have my "lucky" pass the welding test old school duro holder for on the road. it even comes with and has a compartment for the tightening hex wrench. gotta be over 30 years old. new insulating components screw on.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:I have some of that orange flex lead and it is very nice. Too bad all the orange I have is 4ga.old Miller spectrum 625 Lincoln SP-135 T, CO2+0.025 wireMiller model 250 and WP-18V torchCraftsman 100amp AC/DC and WP-17V torchCentury 115-004 HF arc stabilizerHome made 4 transformer spot welderHome made alternator welder
Reply:Does anyone know anything about the 600 amp holders that you see the pipeliner use. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by johnrbauerDoes anyone know anything about the 600 amp holders that you see the pipeliner use. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
Reply:The ones I seen we're regular stingers but 600 amp Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
Reply:I use a lenco springer and then bend the electrode to a 90 and can achieve any angle I want.  I have had the current whip for so long I don't remember the gauge of the wire.  Heck I don't remember the gauge of my primaries, but they are big.  I will post a picture of them and see if anyone can figure out the size.
Reply:Originally Posted by johnrbauerThe ones I seen we're regular stingers but 600 amp Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
Reply:Man johnrbauer, I'm not a pipeliner, but I never heard of an electrode you use by hand that requires 600A. Heck, Lincoln rates 1/4" 7018 at 300A - 400A. Most pipeliners have or still run Lincoln SA200 welders, which are rated at 200A @ 60% duty cycle.Firemanmike69, a 4/0 whip on your stinger! What the heck are you welding? Post up some pics, please!!! You must be a pretty good arm wrestler!"Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:Originally Posted by Firemanmike69Like mine ?  600 amp with 4/0 cable
Reply:Originally Posted by docwelderlooks kinda small for 600 amps. could be model #?
Reply:I don't have one I was asking what they use 600 amp I could be wrong it is a large stinger according to the pipeline videos I've been watching Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalkmost of the ones I've seen in the pipeline pics are the green handled Lincoln ones. They don't have all the insulation around the jaws like you usually see on tong style stingers.Miller Syncrowave 180Miller 211 w/ spool-gunLincoln Ac/Dc buzzboxCutmaster 38 plasmaVictor,Smith's,and Craftsman (Harris) O/A torches.DeWalt Multi cutterFiber Metal helmets(old school)Enough Snap-On to be a dealer
Reply:Wow a 6 year old thread. I use 350 amp Duros. They don't have springs, the jaws are the springs. You can't pull a rod out of the jaws by hand and it will pivot to any position. It's about the size of a 200 amp Tweco. All four of mine are 30+ years old and still doing fine.
Reply:Usually bigger the stinger less heat build up. I'm running a couple 300 amp stingers(twister and spring) off 100 feet of 2/0 ground and 100 foot 1/0 on my stinger.  200-250 amp stingers get to warm for my liking. Also if you have a large set of pimp slappers you may want a larger stinger. Once again, Quality. Buy a brand name like the other guys mentioned. Buy a little higher rated amperage if your going to weld a lot. I've used all but Bernard stingers and they all seemed good enough. It s going to come down to what you like and what functions best for you and yours. If you'll excuse me I have to go by a Bernard shortstub cause I don't have one. I've never used one, and don't know what they look like but dammitt I NEED one....or two.Arcon Workhorse 300MSPowcon 400SMTPowcon SM400 x 2Powcon SM3001968 SA200 Redface1978 SA250 DieselMiller Super 32P FeederPre 1927 American 14" High Duty LatheK&T Milwaukee 2H Horizontal MillBryan
Reply:Bob you have a pic of those duros?Arcon Workhorse 300MSPowcon 400SMTPowcon SM400 x 2Powcon SM3001968 SA200 Redface1978 SA250 DieselMiller Super 32P FeederPre 1927 American 14" High Duty LatheK&T Milwaukee 2H Horizontal MillBryan
Reply:Ok, I watch pipeline vids too and this might be it???blawless, this is a pic of the Lenco Duro. I just missed a 250A at a good price on evilbay. As far as the shortstub, I don't care for mine. You have to unscrew the handle to release the stub, then screw the handle to tighten the new electrode. Then, I end up having to bend every electrode, because they aim up about 25*."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:Originally Posted by blawlessUsually bigger the stinger less heat build up. I'm running a couple 300 amp stingers(twister and spring) off 100 feet of 2/0 ground and 100 foot 1/0 on my stinger.  200-250 amp stingers get to warm for my liking. Also if you have a large set of pimp slappers you may want a larger stinger. Once again, Quality. Buy a brand name like the other guys mentioned. Buy a little higher rated amperage if your going to weld a lot. I've used all but Bernard stingers and they all seemed good enough. It s going to come down to what you like and what functions best for you and yours. If you'll excuse me I have to go by a Bernard shortstub cause I don't have one. I've never used one, and don't know what they look like but dammitt I NEED one....or two.
Reply:Tweco is a good electrode holder.Lincoln pro core 125 14''chop saw7 inch grinder,2-4.5 inch grinders,electric die grinder.Half inch drillAnd alot of hand tools
Reply:T-300 AMP Electrode Holder - Stinger (T-300)  this one.Last edited by ChrisA7164; 11-26-2013 at 09:23 PM.Miller Syncrowave 180Miller 211 w/ spool-gunLincoln Ac/Dc buzzboxCutmaster 38 plasmaVictor,Smith's,and Craftsman (Harris) O/A torches.DeWalt Multi cutterFiber Metal helmets(old school)Enough Snap-On to be a dealer
Reply:Thanks for your help guys Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
Reply:Lincoln T300-------------------------Chemetron AC/DC 300 HFSnap-On MM300L Lincoln SP140 Lincoln AC/DC 225g Lincoln SA200 Lincoln SA200 Miller Bobcat 225GVictor torchesH&M and Mathey beveling machinesMcElroy Plastic pipe fusion
Reply:Originally Posted by Stick-manOk, I watch pipeline vids too and this might be it???blawless, this is a pic of the Lenco Duro. I just missed a 250A at a good price on evilbay. As far as the shortstub, I don't care for mine. You have to unscrew the handle to release the stub, then screw the handle to tighten the new electrode. Then, I end up having to bend every electrode, because they aim up about 25*.
Reply:Yup short stub and duro for me ,the worst Lincolns 400 amp a Huge heavy club , they make a green handled unshielded pipeliner goes good with a pancake shield and the pipeliner grounds.Need the big ones for 3/8 rods  they used to make  .
Reply:Originally Posted by PavinsteelmanYup short stub and duro for me ,the worst Lincolns 400 amp a Huge heavy club , they make a green handled unshielded pipeliner goes good with a pancake shield and the pipeliner grounds.Need the big ones for 3/8 rods  they used to make  .
Reply:I would like to wish everyone a happy and safe ThanksgivingSent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
Reply:I notice that the pipeliners use a stinger for a ground clamp too. They just hook it to the grasshopper.Miller Syncrowave 180Miller 211 w/ spool-gunLincoln Ac/Dc buzzboxCutmaster 38 plasmaVictor,Smith's,and Craftsman (Harris) O/A torches.DeWalt Multi cutterFiber Metal helmets(old school)Enough Snap-On to be a dealer
Reply:I have a sa200 Lincoln Pipeliner I'm leaning towards a 300 or 400 amp Jackson stinger am I wrong Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
Reply:If you are mostly welding at the top output of the machine, yeah. Personally, most of my welding is done with 3/32", 1/8" and sometimes 5/32" electrodes. A 200A stinger is sufficient. The larger the stinger, the more fatigue if you're doing a lot of welding. And you can occasionally run a larger electrode from the smaller stinger, you just have to lower the duty cycle, so to speak."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:I run mostly 5/32 and sometimes larger Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
Reply:I run 5/32'' with no more than 180 amps and no surprise the 200amp stinger shows no indication of heating up.If it ever did start to heat up I would just switch out my shop lead made of a 200amp stinger on 12 feet 1ga for my heavier field cable made of a 250amp stinger on 33ft of 0ga.old Miller spectrum 625 Lincoln SP-135 T, CO2+0.025 wireMiller model 250 and WP-18V torchCraftsman 100amp AC/DC and WP-17V torchCentury 115-004 HF arc stabilizerHome made 4 transformer spot welderHome made alternator welder
Reply:I have used the shortstub holder and the Tweco style tong holders. I disliked the shortstub very much. I prefer the tong style.
Reply:This was in a small shed when I bought a house 25 years ago:The one on the left. The clamp style (right) came with my TA185, is there for size.The old one is a Craftsman holder, weighs about 1/3rd (or less) the clampers weight. The (black) top screws down over a long pin fixed to the handle, securing the rod. I havent burnt rod in a few years, but its my prefered holder. -c-Sears locally has no knowledge of it.
Reply:Just bought a Tweco 400 amp stinger well worth the money can't wait to try it out. Unfortunately it may be a month or so before I get it set up. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
Reply:Just bought a Tweco 400 amp stinger can't wait to try it out unfortunately it may be a month or so before I get it set up. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk